Slippery-sloping

[pedder]

Pedder, is that likely to be economic to do? I was thinking of trying to get the teeth reground from scratch - is that going to be a waste of money do you think? If I sent it to you, how much would it cost to regrinding d and is that something you would be prepared to do?

Hi Noggsy

No, it is not economic. You can buy better saws for the shippping costs only. It is just an option for someone who likes a special tool a lot.

Regrinding this blade seems a complet waste of time for me, because it seems to be brittled by rust/pitting.

Cheers
Pedder

 

[Noggsy]

Ok Pedder, thanks for the information. I will have a play and see what I can do or see if there is someone round here who could do it.

Cheers,

Noggsy

 

[Noggsy]

Ok, so I've spent a couple of hours sorting out the back of the iron and got it mostly pit-free and then re-sharpened the bevel. It now makes pretty good shavings, but there were a couple of pits which were too deep to get out (and by God, I tried!) and so it is still marking the wood. I don't know whether this is an issue with a plane like, but I suspect it is.

Jimi, the dimensions of the iron are 5mm thick (at the bottom, the top is much thinner) 54mm wide and 190mm long. I would be happy to cover any costs of course if you we're to have a spare iron, that would be much appreciated. If not, no probs, but would you be able to point me in the right direction please?

Andy, thanks for the info on the small plane. I haven't tried it yet, but I'll let you know how it goes when I do.

 

[Richard T]

So long as you have a flat area of underside at the edge - no need to worry about pits further back.

Can we have some photos of the underside? With a smooth underside it should be possible to meet it with a nice, smooth bevel and achieve good sharpness.

 

[jimi43]

Hi Noggsy

Unfortunately...all the ones I have are too small.

There is a 2 1/8" Marples iron on FleaBay at the moment CLICK HERE

...but one of my most favourite makers...Isaac Greaves....is available unused for only £9 plus postage HERE

...I would snap this up if I were you!

There is also a SORBY one HERE

...again it is new old stock.

Hope this helps and sorry I couldn't find one suitable

Cheers

Jim

 

[Noggsy]

Richard - I'll sort a photo out later this evening, but basically, there are a couple of pits near the edge that don't seem to be coming out, I presume because they are too deep.

Jimi - thanks very much for looking mate. I've bought the Greaves one you suggested.

Many thanks all.

 

[jimi43]

Richard - I'll sort a photo out later this evening, but basically, there are a couple of pits near the edge that don't seem to be coming out, I presume because they are too deep.

Jimi - thanks very much for looking mate. I've bought the Greaves one you suggested.

Many thanks all.

Most of my irons have come from that supplier and I have never been disappointed. I also have a Greaves iron in my chariot plane and it rarely needs honing. Nice laminated iron indeed!

You won't be disappointed. Let us know how it goes.

Cheers

Jim

 

[Noggsy]

Jimi - will do.

Richard - here are the pictures;

You can see the large pit in the middle on this one (and that's after about two hours work with sandpaper and then a wet grinder).

 

[jimi43]

I think the solution to this one is to grind back beyond that pitting as this is very deep.

You have plenty of laminated steel left there so I would just (carefully) grind it back on a coarse wheel.

Do this with a pot of water nearby and use your finger against the back of the iron to ensure that it does not get hot. Do it positively but take breaks dipping the iron in the water each pass. Dry it off on a cloth each time then grind the next pass. Do this until you are beyond that pitting and the edge is rough but steel all along.

After this you can (by hand or with a guide) hone the rough edge off about 5 degrees higher. Basically lay the bevel flat and then raise your arms as if on tip toes. That's about 5 degrees.

Keeping your elbows into your chest then just hone back and forth and back and forth until you have created a fine secondary bevel and on a newly ground steel...I bet you can shave hairs.

Flip the iron over and using your fingernail feel for a wire edge...you will need to break this off which you can do with a couple of swipes towards you flat on the stone.

(note..for stone replace with paper...waterstone...diamond stone...ceramic stone or whatever you use or the palm of your hand...it really doesn't matter!)

Jim

 

[Richard T]

Nearly there -

I used to flatten irons with rough emery cloth stuck down to a flat board with double sided tape.
This works well as the tape ensures that there is no riding up and keeps it flat. I don't know what sand paper you have been using but my advice would be to use coarse stuff, emery if poss, and just concentrate on getting through the pits before going for a smoother grit.

Two hours passes like nothing when flattening an iron. I've spent many a long winter evening advancing the possibility of arthritis getting old irons down to done; usually irons salvaged from the local car boot. Good, old steel. It's worth it.