Sliding Table VS Crosscut Sled?

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wizer

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I'm going round and round trying to decide on my new TS. I'm such an indecisive bugger.

I want a full cabinet saw (Jet SS, excalibur 806, DEFT).

One issue is space. Fitting the saw in, as it is, is going to be a re-arranging act. I'm trying to work out whether I can squeeze a full sliding table in (as on the 806). The alternative is to use a cross cutting sled/jig.

Question is, should I go for the sliding table or make-do with a sled?
 
what do you want to use them for ?

I made a panel cutting jig and a sliding table and it does all I want it to do.

with the sliding table you need to remove the guard and knife - and some take a dim view of that :wink: :lol:
 
Well all sorts of cabinetmaking. This is prompted by putting a bookcase together today that was slightly (ahem) out of square. To my mind the real advantage of a sliding table is board materials. Cross cutting square timber is not too much of an issue.
 
WiZeR":23fwnwe0 said:
Question is, should I go for the sliding table or make-do with a sled?
Norm "makes-do" with a sled very well. :)
Silding tables take up rather more room.

My preference (if I got either) would be for the sled option.
It's also cheaper if you're prepared to go second-hand and get an old Startrite or Wadkin...
 
I suppose you need to think of the percentage of cross cutting you intend to do long term.

one option might be to get a table saw that has the sliding table as an optional extra.

Make a sled for it, and if you feel the need, you can always buy the sliding table later !

I cant see me ever needing a sliding table

and to put things into perspective - I have never seen Norm use one :D
 
Tusses":1dq03i34 said:
with the sliding table you need to remove the guard and knife - and some take a dim view of that :wink: :lol:

Why do you?

I haven't used the one that came with mine yet but I don't see why you would need to do that
 
Tusses":305i5pjz said:
I suppose you need to think of the percentage of cross cutting you intend to do long term.

one option might be to get a table saw that has the sliding table as an optional extra.

Make a sled for it, and if you feel the need, you can always buy the sliding table later !

I cant see me ever needing a sliding table

and to put things into perspective - I have never seen Norm use one :D

yes I tend to revert back to Norm for how I look as woodworking (Bad Habit). But then I have experienced the wonders of a sliding table.

I'd guess, going forward, i'll be doing an even mix of hardwood furniture and built-ins/ply.

Of course, your idea about later upgrading to a slider is probably the best and most obvious, which would mean the 806 is the fore runner.
 
Raggy":33z5v9ta said:
Tusses":33z5v9ta said:
with the sliding table you need to remove the guard and knife - and some take a dim view of that :wink: :lol:

Why do you?

I haven't used the one that came with mine yet but I don't see why you would need to do that

no i dont , but wizer will know what I mean ! :wink:
 
WiZeR":ei8iuq2x said:
Tusses":ei8iuq2x said:
Of course, your idea about later upgrading to a slider is probably the best and most obvious, which would mean the 806 is the fore runner.

or an old wadkin. I love mine, and I do beleive sliding tables are available

of coarse - do your homework before parting with cash !
 
I don't understand why you think you need to remove riving knife and guard to use a sliding table.

I'd buy the ST if I had the space, but a sled works well as a very acceptable substitute unless you are dealing with very large panels, such as half a sheet, in which case you need a proper panel saw or a circular saw and track.

Don't forget that you need space in front and behind with a TS and to the left too if you are planning to use sheet materials or do cross-cut work.

Cheers
Steve
 
Steve Maskery":27owqljm said:
I don't understand why you think you need to remove riving knife and guard to use a sliding table.

Cheers
Steve

sorry - you are right , I meant the table sled
 
I sold my slding table as soon as I got the saw. Unless you cut lots of large sheet material, it's not particulalry useful. (I use a circular saw for the sheet material on the rare occasion I use it)

I bought an Osborne mitre uage with some of the money from the sliding table and tths has been great

Why not consider the Axminster tablesaw as well? As good as any Xcalibre I've seen (seen 4 so far) and half the price
 
Thanks guys.

I'd intend to break down sheet stock smaller, whatever saw I got, using my rails.

For some reason I am put off by old machines. I'll keep my eye out, but it'd have to be a bargain. Not keen on tinkering.

One of the reasons for doing this is the need for outfeed tables that can double as an assembly area. Length isn't the major issue, it's width. My workshop starts wide and tapers. I'm seriously thinking about getting rid of the SCMS to free up some room. I am playing with it in SU but even with scaled drawing it's hard to visualise. Plus I'm probably going to beef up my dust extraction which will be another thing to fit in.

I think the sled idea is winning, as much as I'd love a ST. The Jet Supersaw has a kind of mini sliding table, but I'm not sure if there is much point in having it. I need to go and have a good look. I haven't included the axminster in my research but will have a look around it when I go to the shop. Then in that price bracket you have the SIP. I really rather like the look of the new DEFT/Lyndhurst saw, but it's an unknown. I'm going to wangle a visit there on the way to Westonbirt.
 
Like you Wizer, I used to be indecisive, now I'm not so sure! :oops:
Unless you've got lots of room forget the sliding table I'd say.

Roy.
 
Hi WIZeR

What I did not know at the time is, that in Poland, I can order the boards (Melamine, MDF, Plywood) cut to my dimensions on a CNC saw...

So, I bought the TS with the sliding table but did not use it so much but, from time to time, I have to cut some big, large board and it's nice to have the ST.

I made a sled that can handle up to 700mm wide boards and usually, that's enough for me.

On this TS (EB PK-255) the sliding table "clicks" with two latches so I can very quickly install/remove it (I must push the TS to the wall every night for the car to go in).

Regards
niki

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Cheers Niki, that's the other option, to get the slider but not have it permanently on the saw. My issue with this is storage and weight. Big sliders appear to be heavy and bulky.

As said above I think non-slider is winning. But certainly lots more research needed. I've got til xmas. ;)
 
If you have the room, budget and need then I'd get it. I really miss the big dimension saw they have at our evening class, you use it all the time
 
I have a Triton Workcentre and I bought the maxi sliding table on Ebay to go with it. I also made a crosscut sled that runs on the sliding table inner rail (Devonwoody posted pictures of his version of this a while back and that was my inspiration). To be honest I use the sled much more than the full sliding table. The sled has the capacity to easily take a kitchen cabinet side (570 mm) which covers most things I'm likely to want to make at the moment. It is useful to have the full sliding table but to be honest I'm more likely to get out the sawboard and hand-held CS to break down full sized sheets because my workshop is a single garage and space is limited.
 
Of course if the width you want to cut isn't that great, or you're concerned about accuracy of mitre angles there's always the mitre saw or sliding compound big brother. That way you don't have to have the space to manouver a long piece sideways across a small shop

Scrit
 
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