Sliding dovetail, easy and repeatable method for cutting male tenon's

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Simon A Wells

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I have a number of projects that need / I would like to have sliding dovetails:

  • Large heavy bench / shoe storage from 2 inch pine that would need about 18 slidding dovetail, exposed at both ends, so not stopped.
  • Book cases / office storage.
plus some bedroom furniture.

I am a hobby woodworker in a double garage with a contractor table saw 255mm, record morticer, makita trim router (240V) and rather to many hand saws and planes.

I have looked at a number of soloutions, lots of youtube and am wondering if there is a simple, repeatable way to cut the male tennon piece?

The female part seems pretty straight forward with a router.

I have just finished a 6ft by 6ft table saw work bench with matchfit microjig dovetail groves on top and on two of the side panels, so no problem with routing dovetail grooves!

I have looked at:

I wondered what your expierence might be of cutting the male dovetail tenons efficiently and accurately?

I don't mind investing in a tool / jig system, but would rather buy wood....

I have anther thread on woodrats for a hobby workshop / sliding dovetails here: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/woodrat-for-hobby-woodworkers.150971/
 
Last edited:
There's a plane specifically designed for this joint called a "Grathobel" in German.
1737056355202.jpeg
 
How long are the sliding dovetails you envisage? The main problem with them is that, no matter how accurately you machine them, the wood insists on moving before you come to final assembly. The longer joint length, the worse the problem. I've had bookshelves of 10" width where I've had use cramps to force them in. Glue often helps acting as a lubricant. In theory you don't need glue, it being a mechanical joint, in which case candle wax is the standard wood lubricant.
If you're looking at jigs, I would recommend going down the router table route as it will useful for a myriad of other processes.
Brian
 
How long are the sliding dovetails you envisage? The main problem with them is that, no matter how accurately you machine them, the wood insists on moving before you come to final assembly. The longer joint length, the worse the problem. I've had bookshelves of 10" width where I've had use cramps to force them in. Glue often helps acting as a lubricant. In theory you don't need glue, it being a mechanical joint, in which case candle wax is the standard wood lubricant.
If you're looking at jigs, I would recommend going down the router table route as it will useful for a myriad of other processes.
Brian
Bookcase width and then 12" / 30cm for the bench.

I had looked at table router jigs but they all seem to involve putting the male piece vertically against a fence? Or have I missed something?
 
Well, when I last did a few I built a DIY router table, with the router mounted where the fence normally is on a router table, or in other words the router was horizontal. This allows the material to be flat on the bed that has the male dovetail cut into it.
 
Well, when I last did a few I built a DIY router table, with the router mounted where the fence normally is on a router table, or in other words the router was horizontal. This allows the material to be flat on the bed that has the male dovetail cut into it.
Yes, that makes sense, thank you.
 

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