SIP 12" Table Saw (with Dado Cutter)

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Philly":2qogppvk said:
As for all machines needing brakes, I believe the rule is it must come to a standstill within 10 seconds. If it does this it obviously doesn't need a brake.
Hope this helps
Philly :D

True. Hard to see how you could acheive that without a brake - especially with a dado head on (hence the restriction on the arbour size).
 
Hi All.

My feeling is break or no break a spinning blade is dangerous.
With that said do you give more respect to a blade that spins on longer then one with a shorter stopping time?
If you go driving in Italy do you concentrate more over there? YES because you know they drive at you not passed you.
It’s only a lack of concentration and respect that cuts peoples fingers off not saw blades.
I didn’t sleep well last night (something to do with posting until 1 in the morning I think). Consequently the shop doors will stay locked.

What I think is a lot more dangerous (now in this instance a blade spinning on is more dangerous and where I do agree) is the gap between the blade (single) and the table insert it came with. I could nearly get my little finger between the two. Where I have total control of where I put my hands I don’t always have the same control over slivers of wood falling down that gap and being shot out far too many feet a second.
This problem was sorted by making my own insert.

Best

Glynn
 
Jake
My Xcaliber 806 comes to a stop easily within 10 seconds - with or without a dado installed.
It's my opinion that a dado should only be fitted to a saw designed to take one - as simple as that. My saw makes quick, clean dado's easily and without hassle - I've demonstrated this to a few Folks on this forum and it has impressed them all.
I don't find the dado head any more dangerous than a router, bandsaw or spindle moulder - as long as it is used correctly and within its capabilities.
David Free has lots on his choice and use of dado's here..
Cheers
Philly :D
 
The only way I know to be completely safe around woodworking machines Glynn is not to use them! Second best, IMO, is the use of jigs, fixtures and guards that keep your hands away from the danger.
In the past, when I've used a Dado head to cut rebates, it has been with a long transparent guard attached to the fence. When cutting Dados I've always arranged pushsticks etc, plus a sacrificial piece to prevent breakout.
I cut tenons on my table saw using a jig that can only be used with the hands on the jig.
But I do agree with Dan about the time taken to set Dado heads that negates an awful lot of possible advantages for one offs.
Plus I'd love to see some of Norm's outtakes!

Roy.
 
I have a Unisaw with a 50hz braked motor fitted and regularly use the dado. For the blade to cause the nut to unwind, the brake would have to virtually stop it dead in one second and even then I find it hard to believe it would have the force to both spin round whilst sliding off a two ind lond arbor. I've never had the nut come loose anyway and will continue to use the dado when it's needed. (safely of course)

jonathan.
 
Philly":3r0t43to said:
Jake
My Xcaliber 806 comes to a stop easily within 10 seconds - with or without a dado installed.

Interesting - that implies it must be braked - surely? I can't imagine there's that much friction in the bearings.

Anyway, that makes it even more bizarre that they don't CE mark it - it has a riving knife rather than a splitter, doesn't it? (The main other reason I can think of why it might not be possible to CE mark it).

Given its a criminal offence to import for sale non-CE marked machinery, I assume if it would pass they would CE mark it, but maybe it's just cost-cutting.
 
Maybe? Doesn't sound like it, though - my Axy bandsaw makes a right racket when the brake kicks in. It also has a splitter and guard so, as you say, weird why they haven't CE'ed it. Probably cost, as the saws are sold pretty keenly.
Cheers
Philly :D
 
Guy Forks":p0rco0pf said:
If as you say blade braking is mandatory in the EU. How come you can buy machines with no electric break (or is this a new ruling (last 18month)) and you can buy the Dado sets.
Firstly braking isn't really the issue. The requirement is for a machine when powered down to come to rest within 10 seconds. That is a requirement within PUWER98 (the Provision and Use of Work Related Equipment Act, 1998 - which applies only to trade establishments) as well as within the relevant BSI standard (which applies to all woodworking machinery, trade and amateur, sold with the UK - similar standards exist in every EU state). These items were mandatory from 2000 onwards (as was the requirement to sell only CE-compliant and certificated machinery). So there is no requirement for braking, although most machines with 12in or larger blades will need it in order to comply with the requirement to come to rest after powering down within 10 seconds. Consider also the other reason this requirement was introduced - the need to minimise run-down accidents where operators lost or injured fingers by opening guards and touching the (still spinning) cutters of machines, for example when seeking to remove the existing cutter to replace it with another one. Run-down accidents of this type were once quite common and are now relatively scarce in industry. The heavier the cutter, the longer it will spin and the longer it remains a danger. I remember tenoners not so many years back where the cutterblocks were so well balanced and running on such good bearings that they'd happily spin silently for twenty or more minutes after the machine had been powered down. Forget that fact and run your hand beneath a cutter to clear a piece of scrap and it could cost you a finger or even the hand if you were unlucky.

Incidentally, you might like to note that SCM manage to keep within the 10 second rule on some of their smaller panel saws by simply increasing the drive belt tension (although with obvious deleterious effects on the life expectancy of the belts and bearings!)

Guy Forks":p0rco0pf said:
Plus if the dado set is such a bad idea then it really shouldn’t have been shown on a British made woodworking programme “the Grate British Wood shop” where the idea was advertised big time.
Because they're a bunch of people with no real understanding of the word "safety"? :roll: If you are in a trade establishment you are required to carry out a form of safety assessment which will readily show that through housings (or "dados") are more safely accomplished using either a radial arm saw and stacked dado set or a router and jig whilst rebates are more safely achieved using either a spindle moulder and rebate block (or for that matter a router table and appropriate cutter), a radial arm saw and stacked dado set or a router and appropriate cutter. Incidentally the spindle moulder is not only much faster, but the quality of cut is far, far superior. So I'd seriously question the safety awareness of the folk making the programme. There are safer approaches, but the perceived need to compete with "knock-it-out-nailgun-Norm" means that they will probably continue to ape him and his techniques regardless of how (in)appropriate they may be.

Guy Forks":p0rco0pf said:
As for them being unsafe well. A good maintenance regime care and attention and knowing what your doing.
Nonesense! Utter nonesense! Safety is as much to do with adequate guarding - and a dado head on a table saw is difficult to guard adequately, especially when used to produce through housings (grooves).

Digit":p0rco0pf said:
The Dado sets are no more dangerous in them selves Guy, it's simply a case that if you do get caught by one it will do a damn site more damage to you than a single blade.
Precisely! A finger in a standard blade can be badly injured or amputated and possibly restored through reconstructive surgery (albeit with reduced feel and function - and that's from personal experience). A stacked dado set, however, doesn't cut cleanly and in action is much more akin to a meat grinder. These stacked saw sets (unlike the deWalt/Scheppach/Kity two-part safety dado sets) are also of a poorer design (at least in safety terms) with no chip limitation. Ergo they are inherrently less safe and cause greater damage should you have an accident.

Scrit
 
Interesting point there Scrit, so my unbraked machine, which appears to stop within the prescribed time, would run on longer of course with a heavier blade assembly.

Roy.
 
Scrit

Scrit said.
Nonesense! Utter nonesense! Safety is as much to do with adequate guarding - and a dado head on a table saw is difficult to guard adequately, especially when used to produce through housings (grooves).

Brakes, covers, guards.
They all try to cure the symptoms.
The cause is still there Human error.
If you don't stick your hand in there it won't get hurt.
Fine if you’re running a shop employing staff and you don’t want to get sewed then of cause you use them.
I stand there and watch my blade run down in my shop and I don’t move until it stops (and I don’t move until it stops) as I said before I have 8 fingers 2 thumbs and 2 eyes.

The only way to really make a saw safe is to cut the plug off it (when will we see a kite mark for that I wounder).

do luv these forums!

Best as always.

Glynn
 
Just a small question?, what about the dedicated cutter heads that felder sell would they not bridge the gap, as they are limited and can give a better cut. Could dado users just get a set of these and reduce some risk.
 
Dado's are mostly used to cut grooves (or Dado's........) during which the cutter is buried in the work. I fail to see how this is more dangerous than a cut where the cutter goes right through the workpiece exposing the cutter the whole time. Hmm....
As for chip limiters, my Freud set is fully equipped with limiters. I believe this is the most common set available on the UK market?
Personally, given a choice of which cutter I would like to put my hand into, I don't think I would like to choose a bandsaw, table saw blade, router bit or dado cutter. So the "a dado is much more savage than a "insert your tool here"" argument is pretty dead in the water.

Use machinery within its incapabilities and in an informed manner and you will be 99% safe. Using ANY machinery carries an element of risk - all the injuries I have seen on this forum have occurred using "safer than a dado" methods.

Be safe, but enjoy yourselves. This is a hobby to most - if you feel unsure of an operation look for other ways of achieving it. This forum is here to share ideas and solutions , not spread fear.

Cheers
Philly :D
 
Philly":1y0br90u said:
if you feel unsure of an operation look for other ways of achieving it. This forum is here to share ideas and solutions , not spread fear.

Agreed. I'd just add "or, more importantly, complacency" at the end of that.
 
True Glynn. It was always impressed on us apprentices that safety was an attitude of mind, not guards, and as I pointed out in an earlier post, it was relying on a safety device that cost me my fingers.
The other machines that didn't have them I took extra care with.
And Philly is quite correct as well IMO, as he says, a Dado head is buried in the wood for most of the time so you can't cut yourself.

Roy.
 
I don't think of the workpiece as being a good enough guard - it might not be there when that lapse of concentration happens - or it might take off itself as part of the incident.
 
And if you buy a modern table saw it will probably come with a full fence and greatly increased risk of a kickback, yet years ago short fences were the norm and I certainly never experienced it on older machines.
What greatly surprises me is the fact that Dado sets are freely available to be fitted to radial arm saws. How our masters ever came to the conclusion that it was safe to use them on a RAS but not a table saw utterly baffles me!
We each decide what risks are acceptable.

Roy.
 
I have no experience of a dado on a RAS, and the thought of that jump when the blade bites and tries to ride up is pretty scary, instinctively. They are however supposed to be safer on RASs than table saws (easier to guard sensibly, I guess).
 
Digit":2dzhzodl said:
And if you buy a modern table saw it will probably come with a full fence and greatly increased risk of a kickback, yet years ago short fences were the norm and I certainly never experienced it on older machines.

That's got worse since the flood of unisaw etc clones. Any decent european saw has a short (usually auxiliary) fence.
 
I think my Wadkin (1961 single phase) must have had a brake fitted. It takes about 10 secs to slow down and there is a click from the motor as it spins up, and a click as it slows down ?

I'll take the belts off and test it - incase the belts are too tight.

I too am looking at getting the freud dado set but I want to make sure its not braked 1st

oh - btw - its got a full fence and was built in 1961 !
 
Philly":1qwob8ps said:
Dado's are mostly used to cut grooves (or Dado's........) during which the cutter is buried in the work. I fail to see how this is more dangerous than a cut where the cutter goes right through the workpiece exposing the cutter the whole time. Hmm....
Except at the start and end of the cut when it's not buried in the work........... As you should well know the issue is one of guarding and without a SUVA-type crown guard how does one guard a blade in a table saw which by its design and use precludes the use of a riving knife? My biggest gripe is the constant encouragement to use cutters sans guarding when there are alternative and safer solutions to hand. And why? To emulate a star of stage, screen (and ER room) in the US of A :roll:

Digit":1qwob8ps said:
And Philly is quite correct as well IMO, as he says, a Dado head is buried in the wood for most of the time so you can't cut yourself.
Why, then, did the one recent accident I've read which involved a stacked-saw dado head on a table saw happen at all? The operator was using a stacked saw dado head to make a series of housing joints in library shelving on a table saw. There was a kickback (remember that dado heads have rising teeth as well) probably caused by the workpiece tipping as it exited the machine, which had no rear run-off table). The operator overbalanced and in putting their hand out to prevent injury inadvertently came into contact with the exposed (unguarded) stacked saw dado set. It cost that person three fingers (right hand) and a lot of painful surgery. It was also avoidable.

Philly":1qwob8ps said:
As for chip limiters, my Freud set is fully equipped with limiters.
You are obviously confusing chip limitation design, as applied to split 2-part grooving/safety dado heads and so-called anti-kickback outer blades as shown on the Freud set. They are most definitely not the same and the Freud set is nowhere near as benign as a proper chip-limitation design in the event of a contact (hand or material). If you want to understand what the term "chip limitation design" means I suggest that you read this document which explains it further then you'll better understand my comments.

Philly":1qwob8ps said:
So the "a dado is much more savage than a "insert your tool here"" argument is pretty dead in the water.
Really? The stacked dado set you are referring to is most certainly not of chip limitation design and like all such sets will tend to draw the hand in rather than expel it should there be hand to tool contact. I've seen photographs of the amount of damage a dado head can cause to a hand and it isn't pretty. Also, unlike the smaller laceration or clean amputation which occurs with a chip limiter cutter set or a saw blade the damage is much more difficult to repair. Multiple lacerations can be dealt with by stitches and/or reconstructive surgery, clean amputations are also repairable (and on that subject perhaps Dan Tovey might like to comment), although in neither case can subsequent full use be guaranteed and in both cases partial loss of use and loss of sensation for the rest of one's life is a probable outcome. This I know from painful personal experience, fortunately only laceratiuons and not with a dado head. A dado head contact, on the other hand, tends to remove a lot more and pulverise it. It often makes an unrepairable injury and results in surgical amputation.

Digit":1qwob8ps said:
And if you buy a modern table saw it will probably come with a full fence and greatly increased risk of a kickback, yet years ago short fences were the norm and I certainly never experienced it on older machines.
I think that the differences are in the DIY sector where there are some appalling cheap and nasty solutions around - many based on the so-called flagship Unisaw design, a saw which was out of date (in safety terms) by the time it was withdrawn from the British market in the 1970s. All the current industrial machines I know come with a sliding short-long position rip fence, e.g. the Felders, Hamers, Roblands, Rojeks, etc It is just a pity that those people importing from the Far East cannot be *rsed to specify a better rip fence design )or fot that matter offer optional SUVA-type guards). After all they are available, as evidenced by this design from Grizzly:

g0623x_det3.jpg


(That's the rip fence fitted to the G0623X 10in sliding table saw which costs around £1300 in the USA)

Digit":1qwob8ps said:
What greatly surprises me is the fact that Dado sets are freely available to be fitted to radial arm saws. How our masters ever came to the conclusion that it was safe to use them on a RAS but not a table saw utterly baffles me!
Roy, have you ever used a radial arm saw for prolonged periods? They are not without their dangers, however, using a dado head (even a stacked saw dado head) on them is arguably much safer than using a dado head on a table saw. Firstly your right hand is always on the handle controlling the cut. The left hand is positioned away from the blade to the left of the cutter and the dynamics of the cut when used correctly doing a pull cut mean that the workpiece is automatically pushed back towards the rear fence and downwards (see below). In addition, should the operator let go of the handle the head is supposed to be set-up with an automatic return mechanism which returns it to a safe place to the rear of the fence. The upper drawing in this diagram should explain the situation I've just described:

RASSafeCutting.jpg


With a properly set nose guard and side skirts the dado head on a radial arm saw is very well guarded as opposed to the Norm approach of an exposed blade without any form of guarding. Which is the safer approach?

Scrit
 

Latest posts

Back
Top