Silly Shed Questions

[TheTiddles]

Hello wise ones...

My neighbpour has "commisioned" me to make her a shed/garden store, only small, about 4'x2' but full height, rather like sentry box proportions.

I'm quite looking forwards to this as it's a simple enough job that can hopefully be completed in a couple of days of holiday in the sun later this month. I've not made any outdoor structure larger than a rabbit hutch so have a couple of dumb questions...

1 - Does it all need to be treated timber, or just the bearers on the ground and the barge boards on the roof? Is studwork timber ok if it doesn't have to be treated?

2 - How do you do the corners? if I make a M&T frame, then nail ship-lap on the outside, what do I do at the corners, I see most "nice" sheds have some form of angle section covering the exposed ends of the cladding, is this two pieces nailed to the frame?

thanks

Aidan

 

[ByronBlack]

Hello wise ones...

My neighbpour has "commisioned" me to make her a shed/garden store, only small, about 4'x2' but full height, rather like sentry box proportions.

I'm quite looking forwards to this as it's a simple enough job that can hopefully be completed in a couple of days of holiday in the sun later this month. I've not made any outdoor structure larger than a rabbit hutch so have a couple of dumb questions...

1 - Does it all need to be treated timber, or just the bearers on the ground and the barge boards on the roof? Is studwork timber ok if it doesn't have to be treated?

2 - How do you do the corners? if I make a M&T frame, then nail ship-lap on the outside, what do I do at the corners, I see most "nice" sheds have some form of angle section covering the exposed ends of the cladding, is this two pieces nailed to the frame?

thanks

Aidan

1. Doesn't all need to be treated if you are going to paint it. Only the bearers need to be. I just painted my barge boards with outdoor masonry paint, and the cladding with regular fence paint.

2. You can do the corners a number of ways: insert a small 90 degree corner piece so that the cladding butts up against each edge, or you can do what I did for mine, as that is to clad it first, and then overlay a 90degree piece so that it covers over the top of the all exposed edges. I painted mine the same as my barge boards (cream) to contrast with the green cladding.

 

[mailee]

I wouldn't got to the extremes of M&T joints on something like this, just butt joints and screws will do. As for the corners, as has been stated by BB two thin strips screwed or nailed in an L shape usually looks pretty good. HTH. :wink:

 

[ByronBlack]

Aiden,

Here's a before and after shot of the corners on my build:

Cladding adding all round:

3x1 glued together to make an 'L' piece and fixed over the entire corner:

 

[OPJ]

I wouldn't bother with mortise and tenon joints either. But, if you do want more 'security' and an easier way to locate the joints that a simple butt joint, then you could use half-laps and then screw or nail them.

Obviously, make the panels (sides and ends) individually before screwing them all together at the corners.

 

[wizer]

I wouldn't even use screws. If you really want to do this in two weekends then you need one of these:

I have one if you want to borrow, but it might be cheaper to rent one locally.

 

[John. B]

I would have thought thumb tacks might be ok for a upright dog kennal :lol: :lol: :lol: :shock:

john. B

 

[TheTiddles]

I was planning on using hammer if it's all the same?! I don't see the point in getting a really expensive tool to do a simple job, who would do a thing like that???

Anyway, I could make panels and just screw them together, though I was thinking that was an inferior alternative to a proper frame and then attaching the cladding straight onto it with it up in place, though hammering on uprights is never going to be as easy as flat on the ground and as noted, it's only small. I can use whatever workshop machinery I want really as the wall the shed is against is my garage wall, so not far to carry it!

I want to do a really good job on this, firstly as I only produce crap at work and secondly I can't really run off if it isn't good, I see my neighbours almost every day.

The roof is the last thing to decide on, I really hate felt, if the design has a visible roof I'd like to slate it or at least use that corrugated bitumen stuff, does that need felt under it or does it sit straight onto rafter or OSB?

thanks

Aidan

 

[TrimTheKing]

I have just had a shed put up from one of the local shed suppliers.

This came as pre-made panels with the shiplap flush with the edges on the side panels and overlapping by the frame thickness on the front/back panels, then they just placed the sides on, nailed it together and plonked the roof on. Solid as a wooden shed can be.

Whole thing from unloading from the back of the wagon to fully erect (oooeer missus), including having a brew, in under 15 mins.

Hope that makes sense. I am at home today so can get some construction pics for you if you want?

 

[John. B]

Hello Aidan,

You could always use these,

When I made my back gate, I, like you, did not like the idea of felt tiles.

Real tiles were too heavy and expensive,

So I found these. They are felt, look like real tiles, come in long strips which makes it very quick and easy to fix.

John. B

 

[TheTiddles]

I have just had a shed put up from one of the local shed suppliers.

This came as pre-made panels with the shiplap flush with the edges on the side panels and overlapping by the frame thickness on the front/back panels, then they just placed the sides on, nailed it together and plonked the roof on. Solid as a wooden shed can be.

Whole thing from unloading from the back of the wagon to fully erect (oooeer missus), including having a brew, in under 15 mins.

Hope that makes sense. I am at home today so can get some construction pics for you if you want?

How can you just plnk a roof on? Did they nail through the felt?

Aidan

 

[dexter]

Aidan,
Just noticed that Norm is making a shed type thingy tonight on Discovery Shed 9.30pm. Might be worth a look.

Dex

 

[Dibs-h]

I was planning on using hammer if it's all the same?! I don't see the point in getting a really expensive tool to do a simple job, who would do a thing like that???

Besides hammering nails is very therapeutic! :wink:

 

[TheTiddles]

Aidan,
Just noticed that Norm is making a shed type thingy tonight on Discovery Shed 9.30pm. Might be worth a look.

Dex

I'd have to buy Sky for the priveledge!

Aidan

 

[TrimTheKing]

How can you just plnk a roof on? Did they nail through the felt?

Aidan

Not sure, let me go and look...

...Right, roof is also a single unit, felted up, with facia boards around the edge. When they stuck the roof on they nailed through the facia overhang, through the shiplap and into the top of the side panel frames.

All you can see are nail heads in the facia boards, neat job. It's never going to win any beauty prizes but it's strong functional and looks good so it works for me, for what is essentially a garden store.

 

[MickCheese]

JohnB

They look like shingles.

You just nail a row at the bottom of the roof upside-down then work your way up the roof nailing as you go (but the right way up). The nails are hidden by the following row of shingles.

At the ridge there is merely a ridge cap or you can use the shingles sideways.

Was that the question?

Mick

 

[TheTiddles]

one more quick one...

If it's going on a concrete slab base that's flat and drained, does it need a floor? Without a step up lawnmowers can be driven straight in etc... a bad idea?

Aidan

 

[9fingers]

A floor will help keep things dry (er) and also remove the need to attach the shed to the concrete. With no floor and no anchor, the shed will readily go out of shape and the door cease to fit properly.

Bob

 

[Lons]

one more quick one...

If it's going on a concrete slab base that's flat and drained, does it need a floor? Without a step up lawnmowers can be driven straight in etc... a bad idea?

Aidan

Providing the top of the slab is above ground level to prevent water seepage its ok but fix securely down into the concrete.

Easiest way is just drill down through the timber into the conctrete in one go and knock in hammer, or screw fixings (from toolstation, screfix etc.) - Dead easy and secure.

Paslode gun
Believe me - that's just as theraputic as a hammer, less chance of bashing your fingers and you can scare the s*** out of the wildlife and the neighbours at the same time. :lol: :lol:

Bob

 

[TheTiddles]

ok, just to clarify, the concrete slab base is a base, made from concrete slabs (what they call a patio in council estates apparently) hence the desire to put something more attractive on top of it, like a shed.

any fixing will have 30mm of concrete then probably hardcore so it will be fixed to slabs not a slab, make sense?

Aidan