Shortening a router bit

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skeetstar

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Gentles all, I recently hought a long shank router bit for my 1/4in router (OF1010). The bit is about 3-4mm too long.. I'd I can't get the bit far enough in to ensure the collet closes on the 'insert bit up to this line mark'. Routers frighten me so I try to ensure I follow all the guidelines when using them. Sooo I could do with shortening the bit. I can cut with a hacksaw and file as square as I can get, but it won't be as good as the manufacturer did it, there maybe small balance issues.. probably no big deal at 500rpm, but routers turn a good bit quicker than that.k9

Thoughts?

Should I just get the right length bit and be done with?
Should I have a go at shortening?
 
there's no way u'll shorten the bit with a norm hacksaw blade let alone file it......
A mini grinder ^4") will do it easily....
not sure if u want the shaft or the cutter end shortening......either way the grinder will do it.....
but dont recomend the cutter end being shortened by someone unskilled.....
BUT router bits are cheap enough to just buy another.....even post free off ebay so no effort....
 
I'd have though if the shank goes dead in the spindle there isn't a safety issue - it'll be well secured. It might put the cutting edge in the wrong place if it's too long, I suppose, but that's another issue.
 
A picture always helps…
I presume you want to shorten the shaft by 3-4mm. As previously mentioned, itll be too hard for a hacksaw to cut through… You could use an angle grinder to remove the metal, or if you have decent bench grinder, it will take off that amount in no time. Just keep turning the bit to get a nice even finish on the end. As long as the shaft fully engages into the chuck you won’t have any problems.
 
Sorry fellas should have been more specific.. I wanted to shorten the shank.
I did wonder if the steel of the bit might be too hard. I don't have much in the way of grinding facilities.

I'll get another.

I'll donate the bit FOC to any of the responders above, if they want it, but let me get the web address so you can see the bit in question.
 
I agree with @Phil Pascoe. If it goes in far enough to bottom out it will probably be secure.
If you need the reach of the bit to be shorter than the height adjustment of the machinr then add thickness to the base with a bit of plywood or something.

Ollie
 
I always assumed that the depth line was not so much to do with how deep in the collet but the length of unsupported shank? Be interested to hear if Im wrong?
Steve
 
Folks here's my router and the bit in the collet. As you can see I cannot insert the bit deep enough in order to align the 'K' mark with the bottom face of the collet.

As I said above I have a very healthy respect for sharp things that spin at 20k rpm, so I try and follow all the rules. and I baulk at the idea of not inserting the bit up to the 'K' mark.

Sooo.. the bit is a 8mm dia cutter, 1/4in shank TL208M the long shanked version.

If you want it, send me a pm and Ill drop it in the post to you when I have a moment.
router bit.jpg
 
As above, if fully inserted & it has a steel shaft (not solid carbide) I'd use it as is. I wouldn't be making an aggressive, full-depth cut in any case - cut down in stages. But (again if it's a steel shaft) I'd have no qualms about shortening it, if my purpose required. .
 
I recently hought a long shank router bit for my 1/4in router (OF1010). The bit is about 3-4mm too long.. I'd I can't get the bit far enough in to ensure the collet closes on the 'insert bit up to this line mark'.
Do you actually have a problem, the line gives an indication of where it should be but are there other issues. Ignore the line mark for now, with it fully inserted remove the collet nut and the collet to see where the bit is sitting within the collet. As long as it is fully in the collet then you have no issues, it should not bottom out in the router though.
 
Good way to get the end of any small bar even is to finish by popping it in a drill and spin it whilst grinding the end.
I would not grind a router tip shank at all the heat might alter the hardness of steel i have seen a cheepo tip bend and throw the router across the bench smashing it and the opperator had to go home to change , But to do as you suggest you would have to grip the tool by its tungsten tips bye bye tool
 
Don't worry about it.
You just need the shank inserted far enough to be fully gripped by the collet for max support.
Excess stick out is dealt with by taking light cuts or using a sub base / template if it won't retract fully. You shouldn't take a full depth cut with a long cutter until the final light finishing pass anyway.

Don't bottom out the cutter in the spindle. A collet pulls into the spindle as you tighten it, so best to leave 1-2mm of space rather than bottoming the cutter shank out. It will prevent the cutter shank being pushed through the collet bore as you nip it tight.

If you want to be fussy, or maybe just a thing to do once and remember, take the collet out completely, compare it's length to the width of your thumb, then you know how much shank needs to be inserted for any cutter in future.

Collets should be dismantled from the spindle and the nut and cleaned from time to time.

ALWAYS click the collet back into the nut after doing this before refitting in the spindle otherwise the extraction feature won't work and you'll have a battle on your hands. There was a thread about a stuck cutter a few months ago.
 
OK, the weight of opinion has convinced me that all is well, and that there's no real problem using this cutter. I'll keep it, and my thanks to all who responded.

What a great forum this is. It's better than any reference book, with access to such a great accumulation of knowledge, thanks again.
 

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