Shooting board woes

[JoeS]

duplicate

 

[woodbloke52]

I recommend strongly using a sacrificial fence against your main fence using some toggle clamps to keep it in place. If the fence is then marginally out of alignment you can than shim it with pieces of plastic (I use bits of plastic document wallet like David Charlesworth taught). This is super quick and you can shim in any direction with this approach.

Too much of a faff. Look at the clip I posted; if the fence is 'out of kilter', remove it, take a few shavings as shown to make it true again, tap it back in place and test. Takes less than a minute and you're back in business - Rob

 

[Jacob]

Repeating myself sorry! But shooting boards are semi mythical and in fact fairly useless. You can tell by the thousands of posts about the difficulties encountered.
They look such a good idea especially to beginners, but they just don't work well.
Two bench hooks will do the job, but you work to marked or cut lines instead of relying on accuracy of a shooting board jig.

 

[mudman]

Repeating myself sorry! But shooting boards are semi mythical and in fact fairly useless. You can tell by the thousands of posts about the difficulties encountered.
They look such a good idea especially to beginners, but they just don't work well.
Two bench hooks will do the job, but you work to marked or cut lines instead of relying on accuracy of a shooting board jig.

Nothing mythical about them. They are used by a lot of people and fulfil a useful role. I don't know where you get the 'thousands of posts' from, people may have some difficulties but usually sort them out pretty quickly.
They are a good idea, they work very well. I have several and they all work very well indeed.
A couple of rough bench hooks may work for what you do, but for others that work to a greater level of precision, then the shooting board is a useful tool to have available.
And yes you are repeating yourself, and it's the usual drivel. I think you should realise that most people just ignore you now, and that is why you feel the need to repeat the same old tiresome tripe continuously. Rounded bevel anyone?

 

[Jacob]

.....
A couple of rough bench hooks may work for what you do,

No you've missed the point - you work to the marks, as precise and accurate as you can manage, whether with bench hooks or shooting board - they are there just to support the workpiece.

.... Rounded bevel anyone?

Can you explain why a rounded bevel with an edge angle of 30º would be in any way inferior to a flat bevel, or double, triple bevel, with a 30º edge angle?
No you can't, don't bother to try!
You seem to be in rather a bad temper, not having trouble with your shooting board I hope?
PS working to marks should be very precise, but more importantly, accurate. Not the same thing.

 

[mudman]

No you've missed the point - you work to the marks, as precise and accurate as you can manage, whether with bench hooks or shooting board - they are there just to support the workpiece.

I think the one missing the point is you and by quite a large margin. I don't think anyone said that marks are not worked towards, you can do it freehand if you want, creeping up on your mark slowly and carefully stopping frequently to check you haven't gone past it on the other side, or mark it up, line it up on the shooting board and a few swipes of the plane and you will hit your mark nice and square, quickly and with minimal fuss. Maybe you had some issues with your shooting boards. Perhaps if you'd been one of the thousands of posts others might have been able to resolve your problems.

Can you explain why a rounded bevel with an edge angle of 30º would be in any way inferior to a flat bevel, or double, triple bevel, with a 30º edge angle?
No you can't, don't bother to try!

Nope never said it would be inferior. It might be, it might not. I suspect it isn't as good as a nice flat bevel but without some quantitative testing, I couldn't say for sure. I've tried a rounded bevel. Didn't care much for it. Works okay on a OBM chisel but I'm happy with the bevels on my other chisels as they are. The point you've again missed is that no one really cares if you want to round over your bevels. If it works for you, go for it. Keep doing it and good luck to you. It might be inferior, it might not, I don't care. If someone asks how to sharpen a chisel, then fine, describe your method to them. You only need to do it once and then they have it as an option. What really gets irritating is the constant berating of others when they describe an alternative. Yours is not the only way.

You seem to be in rather a bad temper, not having trouble with your shooting board I hope?
PS working to marks should be very precise, but more importantly, accurate. Not the same thing.

I am actually which is probably why I've answered you instead of ignoring you as I normally do.

PS If someone is working from drawings, then they will need to be precise but will also need to mark up their work with accuracy.

 

[paulrbarnard]

PS If someone is working from drawings, then they will need to be precise but will also need to mark up their work with accuracy.

You had to go there didn’t you…

 

[Jacob]

Perhaps if you'd been one of the thousands of posts others might have been able to resolve your problems.....

I made a shooting board years ago when I was making a lot of small boxes (6" cube for jackinaboxes in fact) and it was a bit useful, but found I never needed it when I started doing more real joinery and furniture.

Nope. I've tried a rounded bevel. Didn't care much for it. ....

You've missed the point again!
Given a sharp edge 30º the shape of the bevel behind it makes no difference to anything (within reason) it just happens to be the byproduct of a relaxed and speedy style of freehand sharpening.
It's quite difficult to freehand a neat flat bevel, pointless anyway.
It's much easier to start the stroke on an oil stone at 30º but then dip slightly as you go forward and use more force so effectively removing the equivalent of a primary bevel as you go. It produces a slightly rounded bevel instead of primary/secondary. No value in the bevel itself if the edge is sharp.
That's all there is to it.
PS particularly valuable with modern thin Stanley/Bailey blades as it's fast, you need never apply them to a powered grindstone and they'll last for years.

 

[Jacob]

You had to go there didn’t you…

Go where exactly? I didn't see the point particularly.

 

[paulrbarnard]

Go where exactly? I didn't see the point particularly.

The debate is widened to accuracy of marking out pencils vs knives, story sticks vs drawings,

 

[Jacob]

The debate is widened to accuracy of marking out pencils vs knives, story sticks vs drawings,

What about rods?

 

[worker]

Well this thread has taken off, although I can't see half the discussion due to my ignore list.

The good news is my shooting board is working fine now. And it was my fault due to a poor clamp up of fence and plane.

I think the discussion (as always) can be summed up as use one if it works for you and don't if it doesn't. I tried without one as recommended by others but I just couldn't get to grips with freehand shooting smaller, thinner stock.

 

[Oakay]

Gosh, I haven't used a shooting board since I was at college. Edge sanders and disk sanders are a lot quicker and you can get a pretty good cut from a very sharp circular saw anyway, needing just a small amount of further attention.