Shooting board versus mitre trimmer for fine boxes

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If you like the whoosh of the plane and the increased sense of satisfaction of having and using the skill go down the shooting board route.
They both make a specific 'whoosh'. Bit yes, I love that of a plane. Another good argument.

I would also look at the standard ' Lion ' miter trimmer which will cut very clean miters in smallish pieces for inlay etc.
I now use an American ' Miter fold blade' sold by Rockler in the US which does everything in one pass. You need a saw with a 5/8" arbour to use it unfortunately.
I thank you for the advices.
A 5/8" arbor is no issue, I'm using the dewalt 7492. That dado set looks great!

In some respects you have answered your own question, to my mind, If picture frames would be a better opportunity, I would look at box making in a secondary light and deal with them separately in the future.
This is a complex matter. For one, the thing is that there are but a few box makers in my country, while in my small provincial town alone I know of at least 7 frame makers and restorers. In order to succeed in a business here I must look at niches.
But then there is the deeper issue. Unlike many woodworkers, I didn't start with this occupation. I'm in the middle of a professional reconversion. I quit my 15-year business to literally save myself and changed mental working for physical (and mental) working. I'm not going to chase money making again. Please don't take this the wrong way, I mean no disrespect. On the contrary. It's just that I'm in a difficult position, with a lifelong physical and mental recovery ahead. I chose this for the soul and I shall pursue only the parts that bring me real joy. For the money I also restore old stuff, maybe I'll even try to make it into historical restorations as it gotto me.
 
I have a Morso guillotine, it’s dead on accurate producing perfect mitre joints. It was designed to make picture frames, and has a large capacity. If you’ve priced up picture frame stock you will realise that accuracy and right first time are essential. The blades stay sharp on mine for ever. I don’t use it a huge amount, but in eight years, it’s so far not needed the blades sharpening! The cut is still ‘mirror’ perfect. I can cut off a shaving to adjust a joint that’s transparent! If you have space in your workshop for one, I’d get one. I don’t make picture frames, and use it for all sorts of stuff.
I thank you for sharing your hands-on experience. The guillotine I was bringing into this topic is also a Morso. Heard only good things about them but I value the advice I get here, so I ask.
 
Btw, of course I'm not looking to build mitred boxes alone. I do, however, love that clean look of such joints. And I want to be able to make them repeatedly and without much fuss or material loss. Of course it's a learning curve and I can't get it right from the start until I learn. Minimising the loss would be a great addition though.
 
I should probably clarify that I tend to make boxes at 30 x 20 cms which is 100 cms in total hence the need for a long sled. You could make a shorter sled but the piece being cut needs support as you make the cuts.'
I been tempted to get the desktop Morso guillotine for a while. Can anyone tell me how high the blade will cut the miters ? Do you cut in one go or take ' nibbles ' to get the full miter cut ? Cheers.
 
For mitred box ends, a donkey ear shooting board would be better suited than a normal shooting board as shown here:

For a hand plane, you can use a no 4 but the added mass of a large plane will help through tough end grain. But regardless, your blade needs to be sharp and refreshed regularly.

You don't need plane sides which are 90° to the bottom - either use the lateral adjuster or compensate for any discrepancy by adding a complementary angle to where the plane rides so it's 90° to its fence (I used this approach)

Admittedly a donkey ear shooting board is harder to make so there's no reason to avoid a ready-made solution if that works for your needs. I haven't used a mitre trimmer before.
 

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