shed design

[MikeG.]

I want vertical boards so it matches part of the house. Not sure about the 25mm gap though, seems a bit much.

The reason for the gap is so that you can nail through "air" into the batten behind, rather than catch the edge of your vertical board. To have a nial in each edge of your board is to guarantee splitting.

The Tyvek would be overkill in my view, but if you have it .......
Otherwise a cheapo building paper would be fine.

Mike

 

[gidon]

Sorry to but in on this thread but have two questions if I may:

1. What's the purpose of the the paper?
2. Mike - when you say build up on a 6" brick plinth on a concrete base. Would the floor not then be wooden running on joists laying the this brick plinth. Sorry don't quite get it?

Thanks

Gidon

 

[MikeG.]

1. What's the purpose of the the paper?
2. Mike - when you say build up on a 6" brick plinth on a concrete base. Would the floor not then be wooden running on joists laying the this brick plinth. Sorry don't quite get it?
Gidon

No such thing as butting in on a forum!! If people didn't join in there would be no forum.......

1/.The paper is a belt & braces thing to prevent moisture ingress from the back of the vertical boarding. The problem is that the boards run vertically, therefore the battens they sit on run horizontally, and therefore form "shelves" on which moisture can sit. The paper can either be waterproof (but vapour-permeable), or the tough non-water-proof stuff which absorbs the moisture then releases it gently as air movement dries it. (Air movement, incidentally, is another reason for the 25mm gap I suggested.....otherwise you would have a series of horizontal sealed compartments, unventilated).

2/. I'm suggesting having a concrete slab as the base and the floor. No joists. You could, if you wanted (& I certainly wouldn't), build a floating floor or a suspended timber floor on top of this.....but I'm not sure why you would bother.

Mike

 

[markwuzere]

Markwuzere,
Just remember when you install your under floor extraction, to have easy access to it for when it gets blocked.
If it is hidden it will block up by the law of hidden probabilities.
If mine blocks up I simply reach up undo a couple of brackets, pull the pipe away poke out the blockage,
push it back, tighten the two brackets and carry on.
If I needed to take up the floor, that would be a whole new ball game :-k:-k:-k:-k

John. B

had thought of the blockages and had figured i could duct in rigid pipe with rodding points similar to a drainage system but am willing to take as much advice as i can get. On the insulation front have used allot of multi foils and would recommend them over kingspan anytime both on price and on speed and on efficiency