shed design

[busy builder]

I going to build myself a shed as my big garage is getting smaller as it has to share space with my Honda ST1300. i have done a search but couldn't find much.

So as I've got a huge garden I am going for either 3m x3m or 3m x 4m. but how to build it ? I'm going for timber flooor on concrete blocks and traditional Scottish timber (6" vertical boarding with 2x1" over the joints) for the outside. It will have felt apex roof.

Do I line it and fill in with Kingspan ? but how much ? do I do underfloor and ceiling too ? I haven't planned heating it but may have a small electric one when I'm in there.

Have I missed anything in basic shed design ?

 

[John. B]

I think I would prefer a concrete slab for the base. Wood floor, floorboards if you can. warmer and can take the weight of machines.
concrete hollow block walls, kingspan inside.
Insulated ceiling/roof,
For heating definitely woodburning stove, you will have plenty of fuel.
electric too expensive. 3x4 metres is a lot of space.
If it has to be wood I'd go for 3"x 3" frame filled with insulation. Shiplap over roofing or builders paper. lined inside with plywood, good for brackets, shelves, cupboards etc.

John. B

 

[Chippyjoe]

If you go for a concrete base,I would put the sole plate on a course of bricks.

Mark.

 

[Oryxdesign]

Is it going to be a shed to keep the bike in?

 

[mailee]

I built my workshop which is 24' x 13' and it is sat on eighteen concrete piers topped with breeze blocks. The 6 x 2" joists rest on top of these and then it has a 3/4" T&G flooring. the framework is 4 x 2 CLS and it is cladded on the outside with shiplap. I have Rockwool insulation in the walls and roof and the inside is almost clad with T&G. (I haven't got around to finishing the internal cladding yet) I have a few machines in there such as a 12" SIP cast iron saw, bandsaw planer, thicknesser, radial arm saw, morticer, to name but a few and the floor takes it well. I have a small electric convector heater which I have on low and it keeps the shop nice and cosy. HTH. :wink:

 

[markwuzere]

I built my workshop which is 24' x 13' and it is sat on eighteen concrete piers topped with breeze blocks. The 6 x 2" joists rest on top of these and then it has a 3/4" T&G flooring. the framework is 4 x 2 CLS and it is cladded on the outside with shiplap. I have Rockwool insulation in the walls and roof and the inside is almost clad with T&G. (I haven't got around to finishing the internal cladding yet) I have a few machines in there such as a 12" SIP cast iron saw, bandsaw planer, thicknesser, radial arm saw, morticer, to name but a few and the floor takes it well. I have a small electric convector heater which I have on low and it keeps the shop nice and cosy. HTH. :wink:

did you require planning consent or is this within permited size? just getting around to designing mine now at the moment its 6mx4m but haven,t checked on what regulations i will need to follow.

in answer to the first question mine will be wooden floor on concrete pads its easier for running extraction under the floor to machines from an outside store for the extractor or thats my thinking anyway

 

[Out int shed]

hi

the regs for sheds changed in oct 08.

you can now build to a max of 15m2, and 2.5m to the roof verge.

 

[Out int shed]

sorry, meant to say you dont need consent upto a max area of 15m2

 

[Out int shed]

hi

the regs for sheds changed in oct 08.

you can now build to a max of 15m2, and 2.5m to the roof verge.

 

[busy builder]

I built my workshop which is 24' x 13' and it is sat on eighteen concrete piers topped with breeze blocks. The 6 x 2" joists rest on top of these and then it has a 3/4" T&G flooring. the framework is 4 x 2 CLS and it is cladded on the outside with shiplap. I have Rockwool insulation in the walls and roof and the inside is almost clad with T&G. (I haven't got around to finishing the internal cladding yet) I have a few machines in there such as a 12" SIP cast iron saw, bandsaw planer, thicknesser, radial arm saw, morticer, to name but a few and the floor takes it well. I have a small electric convector heater which I have on low and it keeps the shop nice and cosy. HTH. :wink:

Cheers Mailee

Just what I though, thanks. Its def not for my bike I want a workshop. Did you use a vapour barrier ?

 

[busy builder]

hi

the regs for sheds changed in oct 08.

you can now build to a max of 15m2, and 2.5m to the roof verge.

Do you mean the ridge and not verge ?

 

[mailee]

No I didn't need planning permission at the time. Having said that as someone stated the rules have changed so I am not sure about building now. I did use a vapour barrier in mine and placed it between the internal cladding and Rockwool. If you take a look at my avatar, that is my workshop. :wink:

 

[laird]

hi

the regs for sheds changed in oct 08.

you can now build to a max of 15m2, and 2.5m to the roof verge.

Just talked to my (Scottish) planners (on fri) about removing my 2 small sheds and replacing with a larger one, back garden. Their figures are, as long as it's 5m away from the house, I can go 30% of the garden area and 3m roof height if flat, 4m if ridge, without interesting them I'm the first house outside the conservation area .
Since I have have a 350ft long garden - I wish. (SWMBO would probably have something to say about it as well).

 

[OldWood]

I've just completed a 3 by 4.5m extension off the back off my garage for a new workshop.

I don't really see the need for a wooden floor but that is personal choice - I'm quite happy with the interlocking rubber mats for the parts of the floor I stand on.

I poured the concrete inside a concrete block sub-wall and then added one more course before using nominal 3x2 framing and 6 x2 for the sloping roof timbers. Cladding is weatherboard. Make sure the cladding overlaps the concrete block/wood frame join. Roofing material is Onduline on sterling board - not much difference in price from felt, and seriously less work.

If you can afford it, go the Kingspan way. I'm retired so am cash poor/time rich, and was given a whole lot of fibreglass insulation. To prevent the fibreglass being in contact with the outer wood skin, I stapled garden weed membrane into the framing - I also drilled a couple of large holes through the outer edges of the frame timbers at the appropriate points to encourage some airflow. I then put a polythene membrane over the insulation to prevent condensation in the f/g and clad the inside with Sterling board.

I then realised I'd created a large polythene bag and put a humidity sensing extractor in - this kicks in to prevent condensation when the temperature drops. A 2kw fan heater warms the shed up quickly and effectively.

Hope something in that lot is of help.

OW

 

[John. B]

Markwuzere,
Just remember when you install your under floor extraction, to have easy access to it for when it gets blocked.
If it is hidden it will block up by the law of hidden probabilities.
If mine blocks up I simply reach up undo a couple of brackets, pull the pipe away poke out the blockage,
push it back, tighten the two brackets and carry on.
If I needed to take up the floor, that would be a whole new ball game :-k:-k:-k:-k

John. B

 

[Benchwayze]

I going to build myself a shed as my big garage is getting smaller as it has to share space with my Honda ST1300. i have done a search but couldn't find much.

So as I've got a huge garden I am going for either 3m x3m or 3m x 4m. but how to build it ? I'm going for timber flooor on concrete blocks and traditional Scottish timber (6" vertical boarding with 2x1" over the joints) for the outside. It will have felt apex roof.

Do I line it and fill in with Kingspan ? but how much ? do I do underfloor and ceiling too ? I haven't planned heating it but may have a small electric one when I'm in there.

Have I missed anything in basic shed design ?

No problem with the traditional vertical boards, but are you going to t&g the board edges? It won't be seen of course, but any movement sideways is less likely to produce gaps.

 

[MikeG.]

Sorry BB, I've joined this one a bit late.....

Do you really want to build this with a wooden floor? Simplistically, in my mind wooden floor = shed, concrete floor = workshop. If you can build it on concrete, you can also do the one thing that will make the building last decades rather than just a few years.........raise it up on a 6 inch brick plinth.

Your size is another thing you should have a good think about. Is 3m x 4m going to be enough? I suspect that as soon as you have built it that big you will want it bigger. As you have lots of room, why not make it as big as you could ever envisage requiring? If it needs planning permission, so what? Get pp. Dont forget that even with timber wall you are still going to lose nearly 9 inches from your overall dimensions with the thickness of your walls.

My standard advice on wall construction would be to do a timber studwork construction of 50x100 studs at 600 centres. Then line this with a builders paper on the outside, then horizontal battens to take your vertical boarding. You could board direct onto the studs if you insert a couple of rows of noggins int the framing, but the danger is that the rear of your boarding will be hard up against the insulation and therefore never have a chance to dry out.......hence creating a void behind the boards will increase their life by many years.

Fully fill the studwork with Kingspan, and line the inside of your shed with OSB (Stirling board).............no need for a vapour barrier.

Now, the vertical boarding: this can be really nice, but does take some thinking about. It is essential that you design allows the boards to expand and contract, and this immediately precludes the use of 2 fixings on each board.....particularly wide boards. If you use, say, 150mm boards, spaced out with a gap of 25mm between, and used 50mm cover boards, then these cover boards should be the only place you nail, and only one of these two nails should go through the board behind. This way, each 150mm board is only nailed once (at each horizontal position)....the cover board traps the free edge, but allows it to expand and contract with the weather.

If you are struggling to understand that gibbereze, I'll draw a sketch this evening.......

Mike

 

[busy builder]

Hello Mike, thanks, I fully understand your design, I've already done something similar, but I used Tyvek Framewrap as used on timberframe houses up here.
But wondered if it was a bit OTT for a workshop. I'm not wanting a huuuge place as I have two other sheds and a garage.
I was going to build it on padstones and 6x2 joists (plus chicken wire) to let air circulate underneath. then 4x2 at 400 centres (same as floor), then Tyvek over and then as your suggestion for battens etc.

I want vertical boards so it matches part of the house. Not sure about the 25mm gap though, seems a bit much.

Many thanks for all replies though.

 

[Out int shed]

busy builder, apologies - i meant to say the eaves not verge! was having a blonde moment! From
the planning portal: Outbuildings and garages to be single storey with maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum overall height of four metres with a dual pitched roof or three metres for any other roof.

 

[busy builder]

busy builder, apologies - i meant to say the eaves not verge! was having a blonde moment! From
the planning portal: Outbuildings and garages to be single storey with maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum overall height of four metres with a dual pitched roof or three metres for any other roof.

many thanks for that.