Sharpening stones

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BB
Yes, this is a great kit. You'll get an impressive edge with these stones - I've had my set for years, now, and they still work great.
Hope this helps
Philly :D
 
Just bought these and the 1200 grit from Axminster. They arrived last night so I'll try them at the weekend. Looking forward to learning how to sharpen and use a hand plane.
 
Cool, ill get some, how often to you have to flaten them.

Do they come with instructions????
 
W&D on a sheet of glass or a course diamond plate. Those who are W.Stone fans will tell you it's not a faff. Horses for courses. I ditched them for diamonds. Fine for what I do.
 
Every sharpening medium uses a lubricant of some description, and they all produce swarf (the blade that you are abrading!) So you are going to have some mess whatever you use.
The great advantage of waterstones is the speed with which they cut - hey cut fast. They also last for years - I've been using my stones daily for many years and they barely show signs of wear. Diamond stones on the other hand, while they cut fast when new, wear out way too quickly for my liking. And they are not cheap!

To flatten waterstones rub them on a piece of 120 grit sandpaper on a flat surface. I like to draw pencil marks over the surface of the stone - when I've removed the pencil marks with the sandpaper the stone is flat. You can do this with the stone wet or dry - I prefer dry.
Do this flattening every other time you use your stones - it only takes a minute and keeps them in good condition. It also keeps the pores of the stone clear which makes them cut faster.

Hope this helps
Philly :D
 
Bassbear81":15ra9ojf said:
That sounds like a right pain, what do people use to flatten them?

I've been using 80 grit sandpaper on a granite plate, and the course ones need doing quite often.

I'm thinking of going over to diamond plates when the waterstones are worn out, which, at the rate they need flattening, will be quite soon!!
 
I brought an EZE LAP diamond stone about 3 years ago for 30 quid. Its got a fine and a coarse side. It gets regular use, 2/3 times a week and still gives me ultra sharp tools to work with.
 
You can get an excellent edge with those waterstones and aside from sandpaper it's probably the cheapest way to get a superb edge.
You do need to be diligent with waterstones and having running water in the workshop would be a real help.
Another option on the waterstone front would these Norton combination stones especially with the 15% discount:
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/hand-tools/sh ... ter-stones
I'd suggest the 1000/4000 or the 1000/8000.
Having said all that I use both but prefer my diamond stones - I have no running water and I do find waterstones a bit messy.
Cheers
Gidon
 
Diamond stones here...waterstones for me are a real pain. Contrary to Philly, I find they still cut well after the initial bedding in period, when the cut is very fierce :shock: They're far cleaner to use with a lot less grunge in the 'shop...as Gidon has said, running water and a sink makes for much easier usage, but I wonder how many of us have the luxury of a tap and sink in the 'shop?...not many I suspect. I've been using my DMT's for about four years now and wouldn't ever go back to waterstones - Rob
 
I decided to go for the waterstones in the end, however the instructions are a bit vague, so can some one help?

How long should I submerse them in water for, do I need to keep adding water while sharpening. Whats the best way to store them?

Thanks
 
BB
Keep the coarse stones in water all the time (I have a Tupperware box for this) and the fine stone just needs to be splashed with water when you use it. A "squirty bottle" is good for this - just mist the stone until the surface stays wet. If you find the blade sticks to the stone as you use it add more water.
Hope this helps
Philly :D
 
Philly":3to53gv1 said:
BB
Keep the coarse stones in water all the time (I have a Tupperware box for this) and the fine stone just needs to be splashed with water when you use it. A "squirty bottle" is good for this - just mist the stone until the surface stays wet. If you find the blade sticks to the stone as you use it add more water.
Hope this helps
Philly :D

If you get a meat (I think they mean bacon) box, it comes with a plastic grid on the bottom which keeps the stone up out of the sludge.
 
Bassbear81":1icaz8f0 said:
I decided to go for the waterstones in the end, however the instructions are a bit vague, so can some one help?


Thanks
Don't forget you'll also need something to hold the stones in when used, a method of flattening them (dry wall screen?) and a very large bucket of clean rags to mop up all the accumulated grunge and goo...and it does get very messy :) - Rob
 
On this subject...

Perhaps a silly question to which the answer is probably obvious but... What size piece of glass is recommended for flattening?

I just got a quote for 10mm @ 20cm x 40cm, with the edges smoothed, for £20. Strikes me as large enough to present the stone to without being so large to risk introducing any sort of flex?
 

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