Shaker Style Cabinet Side with flat inner face

[drummerian]

Hi all,

Disclaimer!:
I am new to woodworking (at least in a furniture sense, plenty of DIY experience) but keen to learn, a shoe rack design has caught my eye and I've decided to have a go.

I can't post links to the youtube tutorial on my account but the end product should end up looking something a little like the attached image.

I have a problem with the design that I am hoping to get some help with. I love the shaker look and this fits the style of house that this project is going in to. I will be going for '90 degree' shaker without the moulding as used in the example above. The main issue I have with the materials available to me is achieving a 'flat backed' inner face (this will aid with shelf cutting and mounting) while not having too deep of a shaker recess on the outer face.

Because this was a little more difficult to explain I have thrown together a quick diagram (attached, any thoughts on what would be best/other options! I am using 2x2 for the stiles (which measures 44mm) and probably the rails also (wood sizing doesn't seem to work out quite as well as in the example video), then plan to use an 18mm plywood panel (should I be considering MDF for this?):

The design above uses pocket hole joinery, I am aware this is not often a favoured technique (perhaps I watch too much Matthias Wandel) but I would like to give it a go and it feels like a nice intro to my first proper furniture project. Another query I have is that will I get away with using pocket holes to attach the ply panel to the timber framework, I worry about differing wood movement (cracking paint etc).

Thanks in advance!
Ian

 

[SteveF]

do you have a router?
much easier option than pocket hole
can you get 2 x1 instead of 2 x2?
2x1 would give you option of planting 12mm mdf \ ply on the back (inside) and not look too clunky
or if you can get 36mm timbers you could rebate 18mm inside and use 18mm ply \ mdf
the face frame would then sit flush

Steve

 

[MikeG.]

I suspect you are using 2x2 because you like the look of the corner posts and feet in the above photo. Well, you can make that very simple out of 2x1s and 1x1s, doing precisely as Steve has just described.

 

[drummerian]

thanks for the input!

I do have a router, and yes I do like the 'chunky' look of the 2x2 corner posts.

The original video/tutorial uses 1x2's for the rails, the ply then sits behind this, somehow ending up flush to the back (inside face). He mentions spacing the play back a tiny bit, the original build can probably get away with this as the gap that then opens between ply and 1x2 is filled over by the moudling.

I haven't seen 36mm timbers, this would also lose some of the look I think.

Not sure I understand the 1x2 + 1x1 solution, can you explain further?

 

[drummerian]

Nudge, any other ideas all

 

[MikeG.]

Sorry, didn't see your response. Here's what I mean. This is a section through the front corners:

 

[drummerian]

Thanks Mike, I think I see what you mean now.

Should I be worried about an obvious line showing from the front where the 2 pieces meet? Will this generally be covered by paint OK?

I expect in the design you show here the shelf can then be the full width then the shelf ?nose? timber to hide the ply edge can be cut short to take in to account the 1x1?

 

[MikeG.]

You wouldn't even worry about it if it wasn't painted. This is a basic fundamental of woodwork: grain matching and board preparation, edge jointing, and cleaning up afterwards. Basically you glue 2 flat faces together, then plane off the visible faces until the two pieces now laminated together are completely flat with each other.

 

[drummerian]

Thanks Mike, are you suggesting 12mm ply/mdf in that diagram? Glue joint or other?

 

[MikeG.]

Yeah, that's drawn as 12.5mm ply glued into a rebate in 45x20 PAR.

 

[drummerian]

Nice one, I think I can imagine how that would work.

 

[drummerian]

Although not sure if the small amount of exposed leg at the bottom would look a bit off...would you fill this in?

 

[MikeG.]

Yes, if it suited you, you can do that.

Let me just say that this isn't the approach I would be taking, but is my way of helping you to achieve the flat inner face you want. That wouldn't be an issue for me, as I would simply fit the shelves against the panel and around the corner posts, with the panel rebated into the posts in the usual way.

 

[drummerian]

Thanks again Mike,

Cutting the shelves to fit the rebate isn't a huge issue, I was just worried this may look odd and add complication. If you think this is achievable I may give this a go.

 

[Benchwayze]

Drummerian:

Hi there.

You may already know about this. Helped me no end when I made my first Shaker piece.
Good reading.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Build-Shaker-F ... ure+making

HTH

John

 

[drummerian]

Thanks for the tips guys. I have got really in to the project now and am enjoying the process a lot, and learning along the way. I admit the joinery could be better in places but it's also got better as I've been going along and tuning in the tools and working out the best method.

Particular highlight was making a jig to allow the router to easily cut out the corners where the shelves needed to go around the corner posts, this worked great and i'm glad I went with this build method.

I am getting to the stage where I will need to be sanding and finishing the project. Which poses a couple of questions. I want to use my HVLP sprayer, is there any experience with particular paints that work well? (my current source of info on this is watching the fantastic videos put together by Peter Millard on youtube). I also need a top for this thing, I'd like to work with real wood for this for the experience and the look, ideally staining it reasonably dark as I like this contrasting look against the white base. Is anyone able to recommend a local supplier, and wood (beech/oak?) that I should be looking at for this.

Thanks again
Ian

 

[drummerian]

Hello again,

The project was put on hold for a while but I finally have some time to finish it off now.

I'm really happy with the results so far thanks to a lot of the advice given on here, I also really enjoyed the process!

I still need to source a top for the unit and have been looking around on eBay at oak boards and I assume I need kiln dried so that it's less likely to warp? I am based in Leamington Spa and have read on the forum that I should also try 'Rowan Woodland Products'.

Any advice on this final part would be very appreciated.
Thanks
Ian

 

[Benchwayze]

May I suggest George Sykes in Atherstone? It isn't very far from where you are. If you approach them in the right way they might find you an offcut which they will be only too pleased to be rid of.

Regards
John (hammer)

 

[drummerian]

Great tip but a little further away than i'd like to go if I can avoid it!

I'm also looking at a reclaimed scaffold board top, any thoughts? It might be a nice cheap option for now while I learn.

 

[Benchwayze]

10 ft scaffold boards brand new about 17 pounds at Wickes. Any good?

I've not seen any of them
I just came across them when I was thinking of a garden seat and plant container combined.

I don't see any reason why they wouldn't be suitable for you. I hope that helps. And I hope memory is good on the price!
Regards John (hammer)