Scrub plane for trueing stock

[woodbloke66]

I use a continental scrub with a 'horned' handle which is excellent, but I only use it for two purposes, traversing across the grain. The first is to remove the original, rough sawn, old surface on a board which is invariably dirty and ingrained with grit; it then becomes safe to put it across the planer when you can be reasonably happy that it won't take the edge of the blades in the first pass. The second use is to remove an old finish (say paint) where the blade removes a very deep but narrow shaving.
The trickiest thing to do though, with a proper scrub blade, is to sharpen the thing - Rob

 

[Jacob]

Hi all experienced woodworkers

I am pretty new to wood working. My first project was my work bench. It was an amazing experience.

Now I have the first bunch of my stock arrived. I wanted to prepare them by hand ( learning on the job). My planks are 1000 mm by 320 mm by 53 mm.
There is some cupping (8mm).

1- what amounts of cupping is too much for hand plaining? Most of instructional video clips I have seen seem to have a small cupping which is corrected with one pass of plane.

2- I have a Silverline no 4 plane which I was thinking of converting to scrub plane. Is there anybody in Derby with a bench top grinder who can help me to grind the cutting iron?

I really appreciate your advice.

Saeid

Don't plane anything until you have cut it up close to finished size, according to your design and cutting list.
Then just use a normal plane with a bit of camber on the blade.
You don't need a scrub plane. A scrub is really for rough stuff - cleaning recycled boards etc. Hence the name "scrub". Not really for "trueing stock", just for cleaning up.
Put a deeper camber on a normal plane blade by all means but it won't make a very good "scrub plane".
The idea of trueing "stock" can be misleading - you don't true stock, you true components which you have cut from your timber stock

 

[Jacob]

If you are truing any proper rough stock up by hand then yeh, maybe you do need a scrub.
But how many people do?

How many people do?
Well; nobody.
Timber yards supplying PAR machine-plane stock but makers don't plane it at all.
If you make stuff you need to cut it all your "stock" to length and width according to your cutting list BEFORE you touch it with a plane (hand or machine).
A scrub plane would be no good on normal sawn boards, they are for rough stuff such as cleaning up old recycled wood, or truing up logs for log cabin building etc etc.

 

[Jacob]

I use a continental scrub with a 'horned' handle which is excellent, but I only use it for two purposes, traversing across the grain. The first is to remove the original, rough sawn, old surface on a board which is invariably dirty and ingrained with grit; it then becomes safe to put it across the planer when you can be reasonably happy that it won't take the edge of the blades in the first pass. The second use is to remove an old finish (say paint) where the blade removes a very deep but narrow shaving.

Exactly

The trickiest thing to do though, with a proper scrub blade, is to sharpen the thing - Rob

Easy peasy! You just scoop it sideways end to end across the stone, like a spoon, twisting slightly as you go but keeping the edge on the stone. Probably the easiest plane of all to sharpen.
Whatever you do take not notice of this chap as he hasn't the foggiest idea, though his little gnome dance half way is entertaining! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAq3hgSRVKM

 

[Rorschach]

I made a great "scrub" plane from an old marples wooden plane, £1 from the car boot.

I put a heavy (too heavy in hindsight but it will sharpen out over time) camber on the blade and it works great for hogging off material.
I use it for rough boards and painted work. Everything I do is with scraps or recycled stock so having a plane that speeds up the process really helps and I don't have to worry about damaging the blade on my nice no5.

 

[woodbloke66]

You just scoop it sideways end to end across the stone, like a spoon, twisting slightly as you go but keeping the edge on the stone. Probably the easiest plane of all to sharpen.

I just hold my blade against the edge of the bench with the bevel facing me, then go over the edge with a small diamond hone, finally finishing on the leather wheel of the Tormek. As you say Jacob, easy really when you work out how. Doesn't need to be super duper sharp either - Rob

 

[lanemaux]

Yes Smalmaleki ,8 mm would be a lot of hard work , and across the grain as well. I just approach it differently. I use the #5 with strokes with the grain , but skewed to the direction of thrusting with the grain. I just plane the "horns" of the cup and use the length of the toe of the 5 to give good stability as it rests on the other "horn". I find that it is less work physically to take long shavings rather than chop out chunks across the grain. Mind you , I hate to sweat , and do this wood thing to relax. Probably explains why I get so little done I guess. :lol: