Scrub plane choice

[No skills]

Hi folks,

I fancy getting an old plane and setting it up as a scrub, are there any rough guidelines as to what size is preferable? or does it not really matter?

I see a fair few cheap #4's on evilbay at the moment, would one of those do?

Ta!

 

[jettagreg]

Hey,

I set up a cheap GTL no.4 as a scrub just to see if it would work. I ground a radius on the blade using a roll of tape as a template. I also opened up the mouth of the plane with a file. this allows the much bigger chippings to move through. make sure the rear handle is good and strong or you might bust it.

 

[condeesteso]

Generally I think a longer sole is ideal for a scrub, but it depends a bit on what scale you are working on. I tend to use mine on panels and particularly those that don't fit the planer. Personally I would go for something in the range No5 / No6. And I would like to recommend an old woodie for the job. They can be found easily at bargain prices (£5 ebay, shift the decimal left for boot fair :shock: ). They are very easy to set up with a big camber, and light to use which is a real bonus when working a larger area.
I have a Record 6 set up as a 'semi-scrub' (a fair camber) and that works very well too... I think that one cost me over 30 quid though, ouch!
And before someone says an old woodie will be trouble, tired etc... just look for a clean one, decent ebay pics, no split in body where wedge goes, no big repairs etc. I think the vast majority are in fine form, and most have been in boxes for years anyway. Outstanding planes for so little investment.

 

[cambournepete]

My Veritas scrub is roughly the same size as my number 4 plane for the purposes of comparison

 

[Racers]

Hi,

Wait untill Aldi/Lidl have a woodie smoother for sale again and camber the blade.
I picked one up a couple of weeks after they where on sale for a reduced price.

Pete

 

[bugbear]

My Veritas scrub is roughly the same size as my number 4 plane for the purposes of comparison

A "normal" #4 doesn't quite have enough space between the tote and the frog for vigorous scrubbing IME. I would recommend a #5, if you feel you must start with a Bailey.

My actually recommendation would be to either make one (Krenov style) or convert a wooden jack plane (or just USE a wooden jack plane with a little more camber than usual).

Personally, I converted:

http://web.archive.org/web/200901141057 ... scrub.html

BugBear

 

[woodbloke]

I use a scrub:

...from Dieter Schmid which has a very narrow, but deeply cambered blade. I wasn't sure I'd use it tbh, but it's the first port of call to remove all the crud from the surface of a board before the p/t - Rob

 

[Tony Spear]

Some years ago I got hold of a Stanley 4 1/2 opened the mouth and ground a heavy camber on the iron. Possibly because of the weight of the plane and the width of the iron it worked beautifully. Unfortunately I lent it to somebody and never got it back.

 

[János]

Hello,

A traditional wooden scrub plane is about 250 mm long. The metal bodied varieties held to this same size. A no.4 or any other wide bladed plane would be a bad choice for a scrub, as the wide blade requires very high force to initiate a cut (not to mention the wide marks left behind the blade). Scrub planes have narrow blades: 30~38 mm is standard. Such a narrow blade can take a very deep cut (especially in straight grained softwoods, like deal), requires less force to push it through, and leaves narrow marks behind. My scrub is a traditional German pattern horned one, not dissimilar to Rob's ECE, but much cheaper. :wink: French ones are (generally) "unhorned".

Have a nice day,

János

 

[cadders75]

I use a crappy pressed steel draper "plane" with a cambered blade, the mouth is big enough to drive my pick up through but it's small, light and easy to use.

 

[DTR]

A no.4 or any other wide bladed plane would be a bad choice for a scrub, as the wide blade requires very high force to initiate a cut (not to mention the wide marks left behind the blade). Scrub planes have narrow blades: 30~38 mm is standard. Such a narrow blade can take a very deep cut

Is the width of the blade really an issue when it is steeply cambered? The way I understand it the width of the blade actually in use is proportional to the depth of cut (and the degree of camber).

To expand on that slightly, a wider plane would be pointless (but not unusable) as the full width of the cambered blade could only be used for impossibly deep cuts.

 

[No skills]

Evening all,

Good info so far, thanks!

I'll round up my thoughts so far... (shouldnt take long )

Number 4 (or same sized other) could be used, and is by some - but others prefer something a bit longer.
Scrub irons are very narrow.
Hadnt considered a wooden one tbh, I think the currently available storage area wouldnt suit one either.
Almost any brand or type could be used, but I think I'd like something that would have a fairly durable iron * so probably rule out the el cheapo brands.


If I buy a plane with a fairly wide iron is there any reason I cant just narrow it then camber it for the prefered narrow size?

For anybody interested I was looking on ebay for wooden planes and found a little collection for sale in essex for not a lot of money, collection only tho.


* quite probably a side effect of being on here too much #-o

 

[No skills]

Also spotted a plane that looked as if it should be used on a shooting board, for a mere £375..

 

[jimi43]

Wait until Douglas pops up again with today's little gem...I think you might be surprised! :mrgreen:

Jim

 

[condeesteso]

Yes Jim, many thanks and what a brilliant little plane:

A small Sorby scrub, 6" long, blade 1 1/2" width

It's in amazing condition and is a real treat to use. Ideal I think for smaller boards and I will use it when the opportunity arises to create a scrubbed finish on a panel underside say. Whilst a scrub is for first stage preparation, why not use it as a finishing tool - quite like using an adze to surface an exposed oak beam... very 'hand-made'.
In your debt again, Jim =D>

 

[bugbear]

A no.4 or any other wide bladed plane would be a bad choice for a scrub, as the wide blade requires very high force to initiate a cut (not to mention the wide marks left behind the blade). Scrub planes have narrow blades: 30~38 mm is standard. Such a narrow blade can take a very deep cut

Is the width of the blade really an issue when it is steeply cambered? The way I understand it the width of the blade actually in use is proportional to the depth of cut (and the degree of camber).

To expand on that slightly, a wider plane would be pointless (but not unusable) as the full width of the cambered blade could only be used for impossibly deep cuts.

You are quite correct - the two planes I have used in this regard are "normal" woodies, with 2" and over blades, but they do indeed take narrow shavings due to the combination of depth setting and camber.

I suspect that a minor side benefit of this is excellent shaving clearance, since the shaving is nowhere near the arms of the wedge, precluding any possibility of jamming.

BugBear

 

[condeesteso]

Totally agree BB - I think a woodie jack for a fiver makes an outstanding scrub, and a very good starting point. The ECE of Rob's is probably excellent too and not silly at 60 euros - but those old woodie jacks usually have really thick irons which is a real benefit on a scrub (just set the cap further back to allow for the big camber, the iron is stiff enough anyway). Another thing about the woodies is their light weight - so your effort is going into the cut rather than shifting a mass of metal around.

 

[jimi43]

Yes Jim, many thanks and what a brilliant little plane:

A small Sorby scrub, 6" long, blade 1 1/2" width

It's in amazing condition and is a real treat to use. Ideal I think for smaller boards and I will use it when the opportunity arises to create a scrubbed finish on a panel underside say. Whilst a scrub is for first stage preparation, why not use it as a finishing tool - quite like using an adze to surface an exposed oak beam... very 'hand-made'.
In your debt again, Jim =D>

Ah...yes...she is a beauty indeed...but there is another hundred or so bootfairs left this year so I shall be on the lookout for similar sized planes..or..if needs must I fancy making one out of beech and lignum vitae...perhaps this will be the first of a number of sliding dovetail designs! :wink:

The key is getting the iron...that is a wonderful piece of steel and the tapered ones are easy to come by...though perhaps less so in that size and age.

I think a photo of the scalloping would be nice with that width plane...I think that is part of the beauty of it...if you get around to it mate. I am 100% with you on the use of these planes to figure the wood...on old oak that would be a wonderful feature...an oak blanket box perhaps? 8)

Jim

 

[No skills]

Nice little plane, those and the wooden molding planes would end up being a collection or two quite easily 8) luckly I have nowhere suitable to keep them and no money to 'invest' in any

Still the tool budget is set for the month and the task is at hand...

(hammer)

 

[bugbear]

Yes Jim, many thanks and what a brilliant little plane:

A small Sorby scrub, 6" long, blade 1 1/2" width

It's in amazing condition and is a real treat to use. Ideal I think for smaller boards and I will use it when the opportunity arises to create a scrubbed finish on a panel underside say. Whilst a scrub is for first stage preparation, why not use it as a finishing tool - quite like using an adze to surface an exposed oak beam... very 'hand-made'.
In your debt again, Jim =D>

Is that single or double iron? Who did the conversion (cambering of the iron)?

BugBear