I folks, I am new to this site and wondered if anyone can help me. I have purchased some sets of pinless clamps for my scroll saw and keep breaking them. I have contacted the suppliers, Axminster, and they tell me that the blades I am using are too thin! I have taken to slipping a small piece of metal in the jaws with the blade to compensate but this is quite tediuos. I am looking for an alternative. Can anybody out there help me? Best wishes to all JOE.
Scroll saw issues
- Thread starter Ukulele joe
- Start date
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What saw is it
Is it fixed speed
What timber are you trying to cut
What thickness is the timber
Is it mostly straight lines
Any internal cuts
Any tight turns
Etc
What saw is it
Is it fixed speed
What timber are you trying to cut
What thickness is the timber
Is it mostly straight lines
Any internal cuts
Any tight turns
Etc
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
The size of the blade is immaterial, you are breaking blades due to technique. I have been using scroll saws for over 30 years from hand held 17th century fret saws to a top of the range Excalibur, I break blades all the time. Normally due to impatience.
Your blade holder should be able to hold the blade, right down to the smallest size available and that one is half as thick as a human hair.
The 2 things you really need to learn, what is the correct blade size for both the type and thickness of material you are working on but also what is the right speed to run the blade and to move the material through the saw. The only way you will learn these things is to break lots of blades as you try different things. Buy your blades by the gross (144) it is the cheapest per unit way to buy and until you get proficient you will need lots of them.
hth
Your blade holder should be able to hold the blade, right down to the smallest size available and that one is half as thick as a human hair.
The 2 things you really need to learn, what is the correct blade size for both the type and thickness of material you are working on but also what is the right speed to run the blade and to move the material through the saw. The only way you will learn these things is to break lots of blades as you try different things. Buy your blades by the gross (144) it is the cheapest per unit way to buy and until you get proficient you will need lots of them.
hth
AES
Established Member
Also, go to the Scrolling and Scroll Saws Section here. There's a "sticky" post, (permanently fixed) 2nd post down from the top. It's called "Sourcing ........................ ". In there you will find several tables listing different scroll saw (and other saw) blades, PLUS a table with a general guide as to what type of blade to use on what job.
HTH
HTH
Hi there my saw is a sheppach and has variable speed. I work the saw at around 3/4 speed. I use various timbers Oak, mahogany and maple right now. Thickness is 18mm. I make allsorts of things. At present I'm working on the Claddagh legend item. This is a lozenge, or elliptical shape of blank with 2gauntlets holding a heart in its centre. Around the perimeter is where the personalized words are cut out. Each letter has from 1-4 holes in and 1/16th inch dia. for the blade entry. So I am constantly feeding the blade through these holes and of course releasing the blade from the clamp each time. I am using a 11.5 or 12.5 tpi blade. There are lots of tight corners and turns required. I took up this hobby during the lockdown and I love doing it now. I first practiced cutting the "curious cat" out from a scroll book purchased. From there I looked at the cut-out puzzles and enjoyed doing these. I have also made a large letter C and D with pull-out drawers all polished with flock in the drawer lnings. I noticed on the YouTube a chap with a slightly different clamp which just hooked onto the original clamp on the saw. I wondered if that may be an alternative clamp?
I am not breaking blades, The clamp holding the blade fractures once tightened to the blade.
Sounds like poor quality clamps then ,
Thank you Blister, I served my apprenticeship as wood working machinist so I know how to respect my machines . Throughout my working life I have always needed my machining background. I am 79 now and just cannot sit around but doing what I'm about now I really am in my element! I can normally find a solution to my problems but this has got me beaten. I contacted Axminster but their solution was to give me a free replacement. I shall just have to keep putting a metal shim in with the blade. The trouble is on the Sheppach, which is identical to the Lidl saw, you can only get about 2 fingers in to access the bottom clamp. I have taken to removing the clamp, fitting the blade and shim and then re- fit in the bottom. Don't laugh but the Heinz baked beans tin is the appropriate guage metal I need. So if this works then you'll soon get wind of it!
Just one non related question
Do you play ukulele , Allways admired anyone who can play a instrument
Do you play ukulele , Allways admired anyone who can play a instrument
I am the archivist for the George Formby Society and still cannot master the strokes that are required for the solos of Formby songs, but yes I can sing and strum many songs. I also make ukulele cases which are 'kite' shaped but people say "they are coffins", (cheeky devils)!
Cooper
Established Member
You are obviously far more experienced than I am but a thought occurs. It is obviously very fiddly fitting a thin blade and tiny shim in the clamp, if you are using thin blades most of the time couldn't you stick the shim in the clamp? Perhaps you could stick it with a weak glue and make it so it protrudes a little so you can grip it to remove it if you want to fit a thicker blade.
Martin
pe2dave
Established Member
If it's not technique, then yes, the product seems faulty? I would keep requesting a replacement until Axminster realise something is up, or offer to refund the price.
Is there an alternative source?
What I have found is that,(very gingerly) prising open the gap, wrapping the blade in the thin Metal and tappng it flat to insert it into the gap. Trouble is all this takes time just to fit the blade! If I am doing cut-outs on letters then there could 4 or5 parts to complete just one letter. There is another type of pinless clamp that just hooks onto the original clamp but I cannot find where to get them from. If anybody out there can help I would be so grateful
whatknot
Established Member
First the bad news, you are unlikely to get a long term satisfactory solution until you upgrade to a better quality saw
Your problem gets mentioned a lot in various scroll saw forums, one thing I would ask, when you fit the axminster replacement clamps, are you fitting the original metal hanger bracket inverted on top or a similar shim?
I believe the problem of cracking or stress on the replacement blade clamps is often due to no bracket/shim between the bolt and the clamp
I have not long posted on the same subject in another post
<Parkside scroller>
Where you will hopefully see what I mean illustrated
The standard of this type of saw usually comes with the hanger type I think you have described, but are a pain to use IMHO
For long term look around for a better quality used saw if its within your means, and sell the one you have
Your problem gets mentioned a lot in various scroll saw forums, one thing I would ask, when you fit the axminster replacement clamps, are you fitting the original metal hanger bracket inverted on top or a similar shim?
I believe the problem of cracking or stress on the replacement blade clamps is often due to no bracket/shim between the bolt and the clamp
I have not long posted on the same subject in another post
<Parkside scroller>
Where you will hopefully see what I mean illustrated
The standard of this type of saw usually comes with the hanger type I think you have described, but are a pain to use IMHO
For long term look around for a better quality used saw if its within your means, and sell the one you have
Many thanks Whatnot, I rather suspected that may be the case. I so love scrolling now so I am considering upgrading. Do you have any suggestions of what to look for and indeed what to avoid? I will take a look at the post you men
I have looked at that item and have now ordered the Olson kit. If this solves my issue then I'll be a happy bunny. Wouldn't it be nice to post what kind stuff we are all making right now?
aramco
Established Member
look for a use Hegner on ebay and the likes also on the for sale section on here, there was an axminster ex 21 on eBay on bids will be close to ending just been on ebay there aretwo old style hegners and an ex16 thelast one only has 30 left ans its a xracking price
take care
John
take care
John
Last edited:
whatknot
Established Member
There are a couple of you tube videos on this conversion kit if you haven't seen them already
Hi Joe and welcome
I suspect that the Sheppach is no more than the standard identical low cost saw that appears under 'several hundred' different trade names - I can't remember the name on mine but it looks pretty similar to what I see if I google "sheppach scroll saw".
My major opus on this was a Noah's Ark using 19mm maple and the difficulty I had with that suggested to me that I was at the top end of its working thickness range, so that would be my first input, particularly since then I have always used thinner timber and rarely broken a blade.
Does your pinless tool holder look like this picture - I replaced the Allen head set screw on one side with a thumbscrew is to allow easier tool changing. I can't see looking at this what could fracture. Maybe you could give us a bit more information on that.
Yes we would all like to be able to justify and afford a better saw, but frankly this saw works adequately well for me and until I have the opportunity to try something better and find out what I am missing I will stick with it.
Rob
I suspect that the Sheppach is no more than the standard identical low cost saw that appears under 'several hundred' different trade names - I can't remember the name on mine but it looks pretty similar to what I see if I google "sheppach scroll saw".
My major opus on this was a Noah's Ark using 19mm maple and the difficulty I had with that suggested to me that I was at the top end of its working thickness range, so that would be my first input, particularly since then I have always used thinner timber and rarely broken a blade.
Does your pinless tool holder look like this picture - I replaced the Allen head set screw on one side with a thumbscrew is to allow easier tool changing. I can't see looking at this what could fracture. Maybe you could give us a bit more information on that.
Yes we would all like to be able to justify and afford a better saw, but frankly this saw works adequately well for me and until I have the opportunity to try something better and find out what I am missing I will stick with it.
Rob
