Screw removal from gate help.
- Thread starter roadrunner45
- Start date
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Buy a diamond tile drill of large enough diameter so its inside will go over the screw (e.g. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Vitrex-10279200V-Hard-Tile-Drill-Bit---8mm/p/252468).
It might smoke a bit in use. Buy it some nicotine gum, tell it to pull itself together and get on with the job.
Trepan around the outside of the screw and dig out the plug. Glue in a hardwood dowel.
It might smoke a bit in use. Buy it some nicotine gum, tell it to pull itself together and get on with the job.
Trepan around the outside of the screw and dig out the plug. Glue in a hardwood dowel.
I would Trepan as mentioned above. I find trying to drill something hard in something soft the drill always skids off. If you could clamp the wood on a drill press then you would probably be OK drilling it.
Make a "core drill" from steel tube with an inside diameter larger than snapped screw, file saw tooth profile around end, battery drill,slow speed to the full depth of screw, lever out to remainder. It is also possible to buy ready made drill but have often used this method in furniture restoration for decades!
Myfordman
AKA 9Fingers
Use the core drill method. First drill through a piece of ply, mdf etc and clamp that to the job as a guide to get a clean entry hole.
Please could you suggest a source for this item. Let us say 5mm internal diameter if there are options. It would be useful to have one in the toolbox.
If you have a drill press use a large plug cutter to clear the wood around the screw then twist out with a visegrips. Rockler in the US sell a hollow tube with a serrated end just for this - it's been a few years since I bought one so they may be available over here.
Problem you have is that most of the scews today are hardened and brittle.
In my honest opinion, I would mark our where the screw is positioned on the underside of the timber. Then dirill through with a larger drill until you contact the screw.
Then reverse the timber and use a steel punch and hammer to knock the screw out through the hole you drilled.
Next take some dowel. Drill a tight fit hole through and glue and plug.
Let it dry and sand off.
In my honest opinion, I would mark our where the screw is positioned on the underside of the timber. Then dirill through with a larger drill until you contact the screw.
Then reverse the timber and use a steel punch and hammer to knock the screw out through the hole you drilled.
Next take some dowel. Drill a tight fit hole through and glue and plug.
Let it dry and sand off.
I found that these
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Carbide-Dr...+buddha+beads+cnc+cutting+tools,aps,68&sr=8-6
Work better than the diamond tile drills - less smoke. The outside diameters on the ones I bought are all over the place, but no real problem to drill the hole out once the screw’s removed. As @Lorenzi said, you need a bit of care, or a simple jig to start the hole, but otherwise straightforward.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Carbide-Dr...+buddha+beads+cnc+cutting+tools,aps,68&sr=8-6
Work better than the diamond tile drills - less smoke. The outside diameters on the ones I bought are all over the place, but no real problem to drill the hole out once the screw’s removed. As @Lorenzi said, you need a bit of care, or a simple jig to start the hole, but otherwise straightforward.
I agree with gcusick, that the best way. I have mostly made my own but I do have one that I bought but I can't remeber where! I usually use a battery drill but start the drill by hand turning the chuck to get a small depression and then it will drill just fine. By all means use a guide but I never have.
cowtown_eric
Established Member
when I ws repairing antiques, I purchased every "broken screw removal " tool I could find. They were all inadequate in one aspect or another.
The panacea I found was a split roll pin, which are available in many sizes inexpensively.
A quik dremel cut off wheel turned the edge of the "split" square, to resemble the edges of a plug cutter.
You choose one slightly less that the diameter of the screw threads, chuck it in a drill and run it backwards
What happens, as you cut down, the heat of the friction, and the friction eventually causes the e broken bit to just pop up.
I know I've posted video on this before, but long ago and cannot find the link....tie to do it again.
The panacea I found was a split roll pin, which are available in many sizes inexpensively.
A quik dremel cut off wheel turned the edge of the "split" square, to resemble the edges of a plug cutter.
You choose one slightly less that the diameter of the screw threads, chuck it in a drill and run it backwards
What happens, as you cut down, the heat of the friction, and the friction eventually causes the e broken bit to just pop up.
I know I've posted video on this before, but long ago and cannot find the link....tie to do it again.
roadrunner45
Established Member
Thanks all for your help.
I have purchased carbide tip small hole saw and will use it this weekend.
I have purchased carbide tip small hole saw and will use it this weekend.
roadrunner45
Established Member
An update on how well it went well.
It did not go as well as I hoped , I managed to remove 3 of the 4 screws before the carbide tipped small hole saw broke off in the hole which meant i had a screw and the hole saw broken off in the hole , which was not good.
When I went to fix the gate back on to the hinges I used stainless steel wood screws and when screwing in to the gate using a impact driver they also snapped off at the head , which I assume is down to the impact driver breaking them but how else are you meant to screw them in to hardwood.
So now I have more screws to remove and a broken tool.
Not good and need help of what I have done wrong as very frustrating.
Any help appreciated.
It did not go as well as I hoped , I managed to remove 3 of the 4 screws before the carbide tipped small hole saw broke off in the hole which meant i had a screw and the hole saw broken off in the hole , which was not good.
When I went to fix the gate back on to the hinges I used stainless steel wood screws and when screwing in to the gate using a impact driver they also snapped off at the head , which I assume is down to the impact driver breaking them but how else are you meant to screw them in to hardwood.
So now I have more screws to remove and a broken tool.
Not good and need help of what I have done wrong as very frustrating.
Any help appreciated.
MorrisWoodman12
Established Member
I've nearly always driven an ordinary steel screw with the same thread into hardwood before driving in the stainless steel final screw. Helps avoid the SS one snapping off. Same deal with brass screws in h/w.
niall Y
Established Member
Stainless are notorious for their heads snapping off. It is best to drill a pilot hole for hardwood , and don't use too long a screw. Also handy to put that last little bit in by hand, as the heads can also chew out.
It isn't recommended that you use stainless screws in conjunction with galvanised fittings as it can cause corrosion, though you can do it without too much trouble in sheltered areas and away from coastal regions
It isn't recommended that you use stainless screws in conjunction with galvanised fittings as it can cause corrosion, though you can do it without too much trouble in sheltered areas and away from coastal regions
HOJ
Established Member
It seems that people use an impact driver for all the wrong reasons, to me its a tool for construction work, burying big screws and the like, for any thing else just use a normal driver, and treat stainless steel screws as if they are made of cheese.
I always drill clearance/pilot holes and run in a steel screw the same size first, I also put a bit of wax on the threads as well, and know when to stop screwing!
I always drill clearance/pilot holes and run in a steel screw the same size first, I also put a bit of wax on the threads as well, and know when to stop screwing!
Metal straw.
glenfield2
Established Member
A daft question probably but as it’s a gate what about just rehanging it half an inch or so higher? Or moving/changing the hinges? A lot of the existing mess would be hidden or could be fillered over.
Signed A. Bodger
Signed A. Bodger
As the above S/S screws are very soft. Where you have to drill out at a much larger size , I would use a plug cutter of the clearance size and glue a dowel or a plug in after removal. A battery drill (rather than an impact driver) with a suitable bit is a much more controlled method of driving screws as the torque can be set.
