Scheppach HS105

[samball]

I've been reading this thread before buying my HS105 and it helped me a lot so I want to contribute to it.

As noted in the thread, the blade was not parallel with the mitre slots so I contacted Scheppach support and they send me the schematics of the HS105 (which is partially attached to this post).

Now bracket no. 59 holds the blade to the table so if you loosen bold no. 62 (3 bolts on each side of the blade) you can turn the blade so that it will be parallel to the table, after that fasten the bolds again.

Another problem I had was that when the angle of my blade was set to 90o it wasn't set square to my table but I could not move it any further to make it 90o. so to solve this problem, I took out screw no. 19 which was holding a round metal stop for the maximum rotation angle of the blade to the table. now I haven't moved it back yet but I will after I make it a little smaller so that I can turn it to 90o without needing to measure if it's square every time I change the angle.

I hope this will help others with their HS105. It's a really nice little saw that can handle a lot!

 

[Arvacon]

You don't need to make the 19 part smaller. The part 18 has cam hole, so if you loose the 19 screw and turn around the 18, then you can adjust the mechanism to 90 degrees or more.

 

[transatlantic]

I find it's much easier to disable the cam and use a square each time. Annoying, but I trust that approach a lot more.

 

[georgemharris]

Hi guys,

I got my saw this week and am pretty darn happy with it so far. It's much better (flatter, quieter, smoother, robust fence) than the aldi saw its replaced

One thing that confuses me is the measuring tape stuck to the sliding extension front. It measures reasonably accurately when the extension is retracted, but doesn't seem to relate to anything when the extention is out. There's a second line of tape closer to the table than the first two, but this, to me, doesn't seem to measure anything useful that I can see. Has anyone got any clues?

Thanks in advance, this discussion went a long way to convincing me that this was a good saw to buy at the price!

George.

 

[Trebor2585]

Just wanted to thank everyone for their great tips and advice on this thread. I'd already bought the saw but hadn't a clue on how to properly set it up..

Has anybody else had any problems with the riving knife. Finding it difficult to get it in line with the blade, so the cut tightens up when when coming out the other side. It had one washer under one side where the knife is attached to the housing, under one of the grub screws so it was higher on one side (not sure why though), removing it made no difference. Any ideas?, or is this normal?

Thanks in advance!

 

[MikeJhn]

Hi guys,

I got my saw this week and am pretty darn happy with it so far. It's much better (flatter, quieter, smoother, robust fence) than the aldi saw its replaced

One thing that confuses me is the measuring tape stuck to the sliding extension front. It measures reasonably accurately when the extension is retracted, but doesn't seem to relate to anything when the extention is out. There's a second line of tape closer to the table than the first two, but this, to me, doesn't seem to measure anything useful that I can see. Has anyone got any clues?

Thanks in advance, this discussion went a long way to convincing me that this was a good saw to buy at the price!

George.

The tapes on all of these saws will in most case's only work when the fence is in one configuration, left or right of the blade, if your fence has a thin stock position it may be the second line of tape relates to the fence in that position.

Mike

 

[MikeJhn]

Has anybody else had any problems with the riving knife. Finding it difficult to get it in line with the blade, so the cut tightens up when when coming out the other side. It had one washer under one side where the knife is attached to the housing, under one of the grub screws so it was higher on one side (not sure why though), removing it made no difference. Any ideas?, or is this normal?

Thanks in advance!

No the riving knife should be in line with the blade, first take the riving knife out of the saw and lay it on a flat surface to check it is straight, there should be washers or an elongated fixing to allow positioning of the knife directly behind the blade.

Mike

 

[transatlantic]

I remember having to remove a washer to make mine straight. It was a very very thin washer though, pretty much a shim as I recall.

It's helpful to clamp a straight edge against the blade body (between cutting teeth) so you can dial the adjustment for the knife in accurately.

And as Mike said, check the knife is actually flat in the first place.

 

[Trebor2585]

Thanks @transatlantic and @Mike. I don't know how it didn't occur to me to check the knife was actually straight......seems obvious in hindsight...

Anyway, will let you lads know how it goes. Thanks again!

 

[melita]

Hi all, recently I bought a scheppach table saw the hs 105 but after a month the rotor blows up as it start to make lot of spark near the brushes. Does anyone knows where I can purchase parts online as I cant find Thanks

 

[samball]

Doesn't this fall under the warranty?
If not, try contacting Scheppach and see if you can order the spare parts from them.

 

[Trebor2585]

So, making good progress. Blade is now square (99 degress) to the table, and running parallel to the mitre slots! Yay!
Thank you arvacon and samball for the pictures and description of how to do this, very helpful

Took the riving knife out when sorting above two issues, looks straight and flat, but have not put it back in yet, as all I've been doing so far is ripping the rounded edges off of cheap 2x4's! I think it will be fine now though.

Next job is dust collection! Haven't been woodworking very long and up until now I've worked only really with hand tools, so dust was never really an issue for me, but it sure is now! Got a titan shopvac from scewfix for 50euro, not expecting much for that price, but it's gotta be better than nothing. I think I need to make cyclone type thing to go between vac and saw so the blower on vac is blowing all the dust back out as it is now, or else put the bag in the vac so dust doesn't fly back out....... fun times!

You all have been been a great help, thank you very much.

 

[transatlantic]

So, making good progress. Blade is now square (99 degress) to the table, and running parallel to the mitre slots! Yay!
Thank you arvacon and samball for the pictures and description of how to do this, very helpful

Took the riving knife out when sorting above two issues, looks straight and flat, but have not put it back in yet, as all I've been doing so far is ripping the rounded edges off of cheap 2x4's! I think it will be fine now though.

Next job is dust collection! Haven't been woodworking very long and up until now I've worked only really with hand tools, so dust was never really an issue for me, but it sure is now! Got a titan shopvac from scewfix for 50euro, not expecting much for that price, but it's gotta be better than nothing. I think I need to make cyclone type thing to go between vac and saw so the blower on vac is blowing all the dust back out as it is now, or else put the bag in the vac so dust doesn't fly back out....... fun times!

You all have been been a great help, thank you very much.

For what its worth, you should absolutely get that riving knife back in as soon as possible, especially when cutting stuff like CLS which is going to have a high moisture content and probably unstable stresses which will release when cutting. It's not worth it dude!

Also - if you shop vac is blowing dust back out, that is usually because you don't have the filter on properly.

 

[Trebor2585]

For what its worth, you should absolutely get that riving knife back in as soon as possible, especially when cutting stuff like CLS which is going to have a high moisture content and probably unstable stresses which will release when cutting. It's not worth it dude!

Also - if you shop vac is blowing dust back out, that is usually because you don't have the filter on properly.

Absolutley, will get it back on.

The filter that cane with the vac is one of those crappy foam ones, but it came with a bag too, which helped a lot. Pain in the arse to empty though. Will have to make something, a cyclone and cart I think, to improve matters.

Cheers man!

 

[dynax]

for all the HS105 owners, i cut up some 3 x 8 timber for an upcoming project, and it handled the 3" thickness no problem using a Freud 24T 250mm rip blade, the actual timber size is 73mm x 195 and the blade was 2-3 mm higher, still have some more to cut when i know what sizes i need,cheers,

 

[smiley65]

hi everyone i have just bought a pingtek 255mm table saw which is a rebrand of the scheppach hs105 my question is when i pull out the sliding table part it dips down a couple of mm is there a way to adjust it?and any other tips would be great,all so when you remove the cutting plate there are 4 screw holes are they for being able to make this plate sit level if so does anyone know where i can get them from and what size ect

 

[Jseymour]

Just bought one of these. Is there an adjustment to align the fence to the mitre slots?
I've seen the photos of the bolts to align the table to the blade.
Thanks in advance

 

[transatlantic]

Just bought one of these. Is there an adjustment to align the fence to the mitre slots?
I've seen the photos of the bolts to align the table to the blade.
Thanks in advance

I seem to remember doing this. I think it was two bolts where the fence attaches to the locking mechanism.

Also - you might be interested in for-those-of-you-with-a-sloppy-mitre-gauge-t110113.html

 

[MikeJhn]

Just a clarification, you need to align the saw blade to the mitre slot first and then align the fence to both, sorry if I am teaching you to suck eggs, but I did notice it was your first post.

Welcome to the Forum by the way.

Mike

 

[chiokli]

So I bought one of these last week from FFX, and initially I was happy with it after being able to set it up and get it nice and level and square (after also discovering that the leg assembly did not have any fixings included).

On using it today, I've discovered that the top is not flat specifically on the right side between the blade and the mitre slot. It is flat front and back, but across the centre of the table (parallel to the axle), it has a bit of a "bulge". This has made checking the blade for 90° to the table problematic, especially as the insert plate isn't perfectly flush with the table either. The top is cast aluminium, and I'm not sure how to solve this, if at all.

I realise paying £229 for a table saw is expecting some fettling, but I don't how if I can fettle this issue.