Further info about trying to align your blade with the mitre slots. Firstly you need to align your blade with itself. In other words, you need to make a decision on whether you're always going to raise your blade to it's final cut position or lower to cut position. The first factor in this I would say is does either position coincide with alignment to the slot if so then use that method because your next step isn't easy.
There are four bolts under the table two at the front two at the back either side of the semicicular pivot point for the tilting of the blade. I can offer no particular method of how to procede other than slacken them, lever as necessary (without damaging anything obviously) to put the neccessary bias you think you need to be able to align the slots, and then tighten possibly whilst still applying pressure in the direction you need to go. It doesn't seem possible to slacken it a bit, move it to where you want and tighten it easily. I spent a lot of time doing this until I realised what was going on with the blade mechanism, but still had to do it anyway. Rinky dinky try raising the blade all the way to the top, lower it by half an inch, then put your dial guage on it at the leading cutting edge, take a reading and then raise the blade. If you're only getting 4 thou with that method I would be astounded. 4 thou is 0.1mm you should see more like 20 thou unless you are indeed very fortunate.
The handrawn notes from NMA are not covering the problem because the problem is the design. If I recall there is one adjusment which does reduce the full raise heght of the blade which may stop the dramatic effect at the top of the travel, but any time you raise the blade to almost full height and feel resistance there will be movement out of alignment due too the off centre forces of the raising mechanism.
Alan
