rust removing

[scooby]

I've got a couple of Estwing hammers I don't use ( I currently own 4 at the moment) and need a bit of cleaning up as they have little patches of surface rust.

What's the best to get rid of the rust and get them shiny again? Shiny as possible, more realistically.

Thanks

 

[Clinton1]

Due to the complex shape, I'd use one of the following:
- strips of Wet and Dry abrasive paper.
- a mates sandblasting cabinet (if available).
- a buffing wheel loaded with white (stainless steel) compound.
- a 3M scotchbrite wheel mounted on the bench grinder (these are the bees knees 8) , but a bit expensive for a once off use)

What are you going to use to stop them going rusty again?

 

[GEPPETTO]

Hi scooby,
I'm only a newbie but this works : only one night in the bath and after only a light touch with steel wool .

Cheers, Gabriele

 

[Hitch]

If its only a little surface rust, a scotchbrite pad and a little elbow grease will be just the treat.

 

[engineer one]

i find that the flexipads are quite useful for this kind of job.

garyflex seems to be a name i remember, but there were
others. they are a rubber like pad with abrasive inside,
and really good for rust, better i think than scotchpads.

paul :wink:
don't forget to use some kind of preventer after wards. :?
recently in classic bike saw news about a new rust inhibiting
fluid. must find out more.

paul :wink:

 

[Con Owen]

Hi Scooby

On one of the forums there is a recommendation to use Webrax, the guy used it and was delighted with the result. CSM Abrasive Plus stock this. I suggest you visit their site as they give recommendations on which grit to use. Get their catalogue too, but order on line as you don't pay postage.

Cheers Con

 

[ivan]

Coke works (very slowly!) because it contains very dilute phosphoric acid. This (ie an acid solution, not Coke!) is what's used commercially to de rust and etch steel before painting. It is very good becuase it will dissolve the rust and have a minimal effect on good steel. It's in Jenolite and Naval Jelly diy rust removers. It can be bought more cheaply from Lab chemical suppliers (yellow pages).

 

[GEPPETTO]

Coke works (very slowly!) because it contains very dilute phosphoric acid. This (ie an acid solution, not Coke!) is what's used commercially to de rust and etch steel before painting. It is very good becuase it will dissolve the rust and have a minimal effect on good steel. It's in Jenolite and Naval Jelly diy rust removers. It can be bought more cheaply from Lab chemical suppliers (yellow pages).

..that acid solution is "citric acid"...I think :wink:

Cheers
Gabriele

 

[Sean the amateur]

How about a dilute solution of acetic acid aka vinegar

 

[engineer one]

course you can always use brown sauce too :lol:
and barmans friend is quite useful too.

gepetto it is true that coke/pepsi include dilute quantities of phosphoric
acid, look at what they do to an old coin. better than sylitbang :lol:

paul :wink:

 

[Sean the amateur]

Folks,

I did not mean to come across as being facetious, and I am sorry if you got that impression.

My understanding of rust removal is that phosphoric acid works because it reacts with iron oxide to produce an iron phosphate which then binds to iron. This compound can actually protect the iron underneath. I believe that this method was developed during WWI to “Parkerize” bare steel in military weapons.

But, I cannot understand why citric acid woud work. If citric acid works then presumably other organic acids, including acetic acid, should work too.

Again, I apologise if I have offended anybody. That was not my intention.

Sean

 

[engineer one]

sean, what worries. :lol:

vinegar acetic acid, is a good product for many things other than your
chips. many women recommend either white or brown vinegar for cleaning,
especially in the kitchen, diluted somewhat with water it is good for
stainless sinks etc, since it tends not to leave a residue.

in these days of re-cycling and green thinking it has many advantages over
commercial products.

in the past i have used it as a mild etchant to make the surface of brass or nickel silver, or even resin casting for model cars and locomotives
as a pre-primer to enhance paint adhesion.

sadly, it won't help with post proper etching cleansing which is a pia.

i did not know that jenolite was still available in this day and age,
thought hse might have banned it due to the strength of the acid. :?

paul :wink: