Router table safety

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grumpy brit

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Hello, I have recently bought a Clarkes router table. I was using it to route an edge on to a length of hard wood, bit of an old work surface, oak. Thing is, despite me feeding the work in from right to left, as indicated on the table, the bit snatched and dragged the work out of the table and shot it across the room, narrowly missing the window. Can any one advise on why this happened.

Many thanks

Colin
 
You may of been taking too much material off in one pass, you say old worktop- did the router bit catch on a screw or nail within the timber you were cutting- pictures off the wood and the bit you were using will help members advise you . Glad nobody was hurt .
 
Sounds like you’ve set the fence on the table leaving a gap between it and the cutter that is slightly smaller than the width of your wood and then fed your wood into that gap performing a climb cut which without a really solid grip on the wood will lead to it being snatched and shot through. Most fences are of a two part construction where they can be slid apart slightly so that the cutter can be encompassed but without hitting the fence and leaving enough of the cutters profile proud of the fence to cut that shape into your wood as you feed it past the cutter. 😉
 
Are you are using the router table to plane an edge or a profile ? There are a few possible problems. Taking off too much, routing against the grain and using old oak which might be case hardened for instance. If planing an edge the outfeed fence will also need to be shimmed or you will get snipe at the end of the cut. It can be a dicey technique and using a spiral bit with a featherboard helps greatly. Lastly using those rubber sole 'push pads ' takes away the white knuckle feeling if it all goes bang.
 
If you are not using a fence you should look at using a starter pin on the table (sorry if you know this already) Router Table Starter Pin Makes Routing Smoother.

I didn't and almost took my finger off. I was doing a test cut on a (too) small bit of wood and it caught the end and pulled around pulling my finger into a biscuit jointer bit. Lucky for me it just did a bit of finger tip damage and nothing more. Have a small scar to remind me not to be an idiot.

As above push pads and sticks etc will also help save your fingers when it goes wrong.
 
Feeding from left to right is generally correct, providing you are machining the edge clasest to the fence
It sounds like you have had things set up so that you were machining the edge furthest away from the fence in which case it will grab and pull the work piece.
As a general approach if you look at the direction which the part of teh router bit which is cutting is rotating, you should be set up so that you are feeding the workpiece against the rotation
 
feeding nomenclature depends on which way your looking much better to understand how to do it safely. which is into the direction of rotation.
doing slots and things where the cut isn't on the near edge. ie say a 6mm straight cutter making an 8mm slot the first cut to make a 6mm slot will be reasonably balanced( if a bit of a strain) but moving that fence the 2mm to make it 8mm could result in throwing it out if you move the fence the wrong way ie a climb cut.
 
It does sound like you are feeding your wood in between the fence and the bit, which is incorrect. Your wood would then be trapped between the two. Your bit needs to be 'in' the fence so only one face of the wood travels along the bit.

Watch this. It explains everything you need in relation to router feed directions....



👍
 
If the wood was “dragged” through by the bit and shot out “away” from you then it seems most likely that as has been said above, your working between the fence and the bit?
 
Last edited:
Hello All,
Thank you so much for all the replies/advise and sorry I haven't responded sooner.
As far as I know I was using the router as per comments above, unless I have totally lost the plot. I was only taking a skim cut, cutting edge against the guide, and didn't seem to make a difference as to the speed of the bit. the bit was 10mm Dia.(I think, but not a large size)
The wood was Oak, offcut from our work top which was one of the manufactured with staves(?), no nails or screws. The wood in the picture is a scrap/test peice.
Since this episode I have machined up some soft wood for picture frames with a round over and a rebate for the glass with no problems.
Incidentally I shall always be using a push bar, especially with a band saw, see photo, more than a senior moment!!!
Many thanks
Colin
 

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Looking at your picture of the router table, to me you are taking off too much in one pass. I would be taking about 2 to 3mm maximum on each pass myself, to be safe.
 
Hi Colin, Looks like you were lucky, and not wishing to repeat previous posters helpful replies, but looking at the picture of your set-up it looks to me from the shadow cast on the bit that you are taking off more than a skim cut, more like 1/2 or more of the dia of the bit, and doing this without push downs applied nor a pressure guide holding the workpiece against the fence is bound to end in tears. Depending on the power rating of the router I'd have thought that a 1-2mm full depth cut with a bit that size would be more appropriate.
I don't use a router table but do have a large spindle moulder and I always use spring loaded hold downs and pressure pads both for safety and to achieve a more consistent finish, along with push sticks.
One other safety aspect worth adopting is to never stand directly inline with either the infeed or outfeed so that if for any reason - be it a knot or gnarly grain if the bit digs in and ejects the workpiece at high speed you are not in the firing line - this is usually at the level of your privates.....
In my earlier years I had a close call when using a home-made router table with hold-downs but no push-sticks and I hit a knot in the workpiece, the wood was launched through the machine at high speed and my left hand (I'm predominantly left-handed) lifted out the way, however my right hand followed through and my ring finger passed through the bit resulting in a near total loss of the nail bed and a cut down to the bone, resulting in a visit to casualty...
I have been a lot more safety conscious ever since...!
 
Hi Colin, Looks like you were lucky, and not wishing to repeat previous posters helpful replies, but looking at the picture of your set-up it looks to me from the shadow cast on the bit that you are taking off more than a skim cut, more like 1/2 or more of the dia of the bit, and doing this without push downs applied nor a pressure guide holding the workpiece against the fence is bound to end in tears. Depending on the power rating of the router I'd have thought that a 1-2mm full depth cut with a bit that size would be more appropriate.
I don't use a router table but do have a large spindle moulder and I always use spring loaded hold downs and pressure pads both for safety and to achieve a more consistent finish, along with push sticks.
One other safety aspect worth adopting is to never stand directly inline with either the infeed or outfeed so that if for any reason - be it a knot or gnarly grain if the bit digs in and ejects the workpiece at high speed you are not in the firing line - this is usually at the level of your privates.....
In my earlier years I had a close call when using a home-made router table with hold-downs but no push-sticks and I hit a knot in the workpiece, the wood was launched through the machine at high speed and my left hand (I'm predominantly left-handed) lifted out the way, however my right hand followed through and my ring finger passed through the bit resulting in a near total loss of the nail bed and a cut down to the bone, resulting in a visit to casualty...
I have been a lot more safety conscious ever since...!
Oh My, that sounds painfull.
 
Surprisingly it didn't hurt much - I suspect because as I later discovered it had damaged the nerve endings, however it did bleed profusely which perversely worked in my favour... -when I arrived at casualty courtesy of a lift from a neighbour, the swathes of kitchen towel I'd liberally wrapped my hand in was largely red so soon after walking into the unit with my hand held high as if waving a red flag, the triage nurse beckoned me over PDQ and a medic quickly intervened.
I think I got off lightly- the nail bed miraculously grew back albeit a bit wonky and aside from a loss of touch to the finger tip it all still works as nature intended!
I must admit over the years have had a few subsequent 'incidents', however by far the most painful by far was when I was lifting some 25mm full sheets of ply and I detached the left bicep from my forearm - it went with an audible bang, and felt for the next 30mins like someone was electrocuting me. I was physically shaken but composed myself enough to drive 12miles to the nearest casualty - at the time I thought I'd merely dislocated my shoulder...
 
Hello, I have recently bought a Clarkes router table. I was using it to route an edge on to a length of hard wood, bit of an old work surface, oak. Thing is, despite me feeding the work in from right to left, as indicated on the table, the bit snatched and dragged the work out of the table and shot it across the room, narrowly missing the window. Can any one advise on why this happened.

Many thanks

Colin
Hello
It is like that you were trying to remove too much too soon. You have to set the router to run at a high speed before cutting however you should set up your guide to start by taking off a small amount certainly for the first cut and then adjusting the guide. If you have your running at too slow a speed and the cutter is blunt it can grab and end up in disaster. Power tools are dangerous if not used correctly and it is quite normal for a lot of users not to read the instructions.
Regards
 
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