Router table, is this safe?

[Benchwayze]

If it's not long enough to put through a big thicknesser, then either use a planer attchment on a lathe, or do it as Shultzy says.

Of course, handplaning with a sharp plane is much quieter, easier and you get some exercise if you have a lot to do.

Someone said, You have only ONE set of fingers. So true. There was a picture somewhere on the forum of an experienced worker's hand after doing something silly. That would make you think twice.

:shock:

 

[harryc]

Nice to be corrected, yes technically the workpiece is not going to be pulled in (got router directions wrong after a couple of beers!!). But I still think it is much safer to bring out the outfeed table by 0.5-1.0mm to carry out the procedure.

Harry

 

[Niki]

But I find one point that is essential that has not been mentioned. The side that is running on the temporary fence must be either dead straight or concave. If it is neither the side being machine can never be straight and the chance of a 'dig in' is greatly increased.

Roy.

You are correct Roy

The 3 pictures are from very old post that I posted here but, with the "pressure" that I got from the "safety police" I removed all the pictures.

Here are the 3 first pictures from that post..

As for the other ways suggested, I can see two groups...
1. Hand tools
2. BUY a jointer

As for hand tools - First I would like to say that for me, a tool, is not a tool if....it is not connected to a cord or battery

I think that all the guys that can make a beautiful tight glue line with a hand plan are sure that "if I can - everybody can" well, I'm sorry but I cannot...maybe I could if I would exercise a lot but the purpose of my hobby is not to "pass the time" but to see some "fruits" after short time...

Do you remember the old computers that you had to know DOS to operate them ? at that time not many people had computers because is was complicated for them to operate it and only the ones that wanted to get a job, learnt those "computer languages"...

But, after Bill introduced Windows...even people without knowledge are operating them very easy...

So maybe 20 or more years ago, you had to study "woodworking with hand tools"....because machines where very expensive and not so available at that time and, work some one month on a Cutting board that today, without any special skills, many can do it in very short time...

About buying a jointer of any other tool/machine...well, first I have to have the money and second, the space and, if I (or the OP) want to joint at the way that I've shown (or the OP shown), it means that...or I don't have the money, or, I don't have the space, or, both...

But if somebody want's to give me a present an "Altendorf"...I promise to find the space for it :lol:

Best regards
niki

 

[Digit]

I can make a joint that will take the glue OK Niki, but not if it is very long. I find that I wander sideways so that a straight edge may show no daylight a square certainly does!
To endure flat running I sometimes create a concavity with two pieces of tape or wooden shims.
As I've commented before Niki I think our similar approaches must indicate our aeronautical training, but I sometimes wonder if that also means that there was a time when we were creating aircraft intended to destroy each other.
Life is a funny thing on occasions.

Roy.

 

[Chris_belgium]

Wow quite a reply!!

Mike, Niki, steve, Digit,... Thanks for all the usefull tips on how to do it safely.

I've spent a couple of hours this afternoon making some safety stuff to do this properly ( i know the featherboards face the wrong way, just mounted them quickly for a picture). I will add another feather board to the outfeed side, to keep the work piece stable at the end of the cut.
And will also make some kind of protection for the cutter, haven't quite figured it out how, but i'll find something.

More updates tomorrow, if I still have my fingers to type offcourse

And to make the safety police really have a field day, say hello to my little table saw

 

[Chris_belgium]

wow,this must be a wind up :? if not get your self one of these

I'm sorry , but you'd have to be some kind of Numpty to want to even think of doing it like that :shock: :shock:

sharpen up your hand plane :twisted:

If you only have some wiseass remark and nothing constructive to say, why respond?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Chriss,
Please turn your featherboards over, you are pushing against them as they are.
S

 

[BradNaylor]

If you only have some wiseass remark and nothing constructive to say, why respond?

err, because its an internet forum?

:wink:

 

[Chris_belgium]

Chriss,
Please turn your featherboards over, you are pushing against them as they are.
S

Read the post before you reply , just put them on there quickly for a picture, will turn them over before actual routing!! Thanks for the tip anyway!

 

[Chris_belgium]

Only had an hour in the workshop today, so quickly welded together some cutter cover. Tested the setup and it performed well. The cutting proces was very smooth, no strain on the router motor, no weird movement, no flying pieces of wood trying to take my head off, just smooth stable cutting.

Thanks again for all the advice and safety tips!

 

[Digit]

Told yer! :lol:
Now to set the cat amongst the pigeons and state from my own experience that routing from the 'wrong' direction also has a place in machining, when carried out under the correct conditions.
The 'never' is, IMO, something that should be qualified.

Roy.

 

[neilyweely]

Am inclined to agree with Digit et al here; Do you not get a better finish running the workpiece against the normal direction? I am sure I have seen instances when the workpiece was passed, under control, against the 'flow' and resulted in a better finish with smoother cut.

However I would not want to try it myself.

Think I'll stick to the planer if I want to plane.

Neil

 

[Digit]

I have just finished some mouldings for the clocks I'm building Neil and the section is the same on both sides of the longitudinal centre line, so what ever I do one side will be routed against the the grain.
Now who in their right mind planes for a finish against the grain?

Roy.

 

[Niki]

Hi Roy

I think that what you call the 'wrong' direction, is called also "Climb cut".

I made it a few times when I had to route a rabbet in a door frame for the glass...I usually make it in two steps; First, I route in the 'right' direction with the fence set some 1mm less than the final depth and then, reset the fence to final depth and route in the 'wrong' direction...yeap, very smooth finish and no brake-outs.

I also do it on the router table...first to the 'right' direction and when the workpiece is out of the bit, I pull it back...you just hear some light Bzzzz and the finish comes very smooth.

If you are routing symmetrical shapes...no choice but to go with "Climb cut" on the "against the grain" side to get both sides as smooth as possible...personally, I would make it in 2 stages and....well, you know better because you did it...I still have to try it one day...

Regards
niki

 

[Doug B]

Interestingly i was taught to go back the "wrong way" over a cut to remove any light burn marks left on the piece after the final pass going the "right way".
Although i only do this when using the router "hand held", though in a table it`s often easier to maintain feed speed so less chance of burn marks.

 

[JonnyD]

I climb cut on the router table quite a bit mainly for cutting the beadings on face frame kitchens. Using this technique pretty much guarantees a perfect machined surface with no chipping or breakout. To make the operation safe i use a powerfeed and a featherboard its really not wise to do it by hand.

Jon

 

[Digit]

I also know it as 'climb cutting' Niki and use the technique extensively to obtain a better finish, also less breakout occurs at the end of the cut than with conventional routing I find.

Roy.

 

[ivan]

Likewise, I use one of those "baby" powerfeeders to enable climb cutting on the router table. In theory, it could also be used with the fence at the back so that the routing operation was also "widthing". That's in theory: but the router is rather underpowered compared to a thicknesser (or a shaper) If the cut gets too deep the router stalls, (especially unhappy if you are also climb cutting) so it's not very kind to routers, (stall = quick motor burnout). If you're feeding by hand against the cut, even if you fit featherboards you can run into trouble if you hit a small knot or especially twisty grain, as the work can't move out of the cut as in normal routing. Possible, but not something to let yourself get used to doing?

 

[Richard Findley]

I know it as a "back cut". Only ever used it when routing a groove on a proper overhead (Wadkin LS) router as a finishing cut to remove whispy bits on the back side of the groove. They appear there because that is the "wrong side" of the cutter so the back cut removes them easily.

HTH

Richard