Router Advice....

[paulrockliffe]

Hello,

I've been given sign-off for a new router as a Christmas present, it's going to go in a table that I'll be building in the new year. I've been doing a bit of research and the Triton TRA0001 seems to be the best option, balancing budget against features, especially as it has been designed to work well in a table. I've found somewhere selling them for about £210 with the fence and winder handle.

Can anyone offer advice on where to look for a matching plate to go in the table? Ideally I'd like to be able to fine adjust the levels and for it to take various inserts. I'd prefer one designed for the machine so it has the lift handle hole in the right place and won't need any drilling before setting up.

Also, if there's any other options I should consider, or reasons not to get the Triton I'd be interested in your thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[fiacha]

Not had a chance to play with my TRA0001 yet, but the build quality seems very solid.

Kreg do a pre-drilled plate for the Triton.

 

[paulrockliffe]

Thanks, that's good to know.

Does anyone have experience of the Kreg plates? Some stuff I've read suggests phenolic may sag over time and 3/8" thick sounds a bit thin given the weight hanging off it. Looks like a nice bit of kit if that isn't going to be a problem though.

 

[Woodmonkey]

I've got the triton and it's very good. It's mounted in a cheapy Rutland's router table which is ok, but I will be replacing the insert at some point with an aluminium one as there is a bit of sagging. Its a heavy router.

 

[paulrockliffe]

Do you remove the router when it's not being used? I wonder if that will help with sagging, I was thinking about making a support using a car bottle-jack to take the weight of the router when it's not in use as an alternative to removing it all the time.

I've found an Incra plate for about £100, which is a bit expensive and I've found someone suggesting the inserts from the Triton tables can be adapted, for about £15, so decisions to make!

 

[DiscoStu]

I've got the Triton TRA01 and the Triton router table. Even Tritons own insert place doesn't come with the hole pre drilled. It seems ridiculous but it's not a major job to plonk a hole in it. The plate is very solid and I've been really pleased with my choice.

 

[Woodmonkey]

Drilling the holes isn't difficult, you just take the plastic base off the router and use it as a template. Hundred quid sounds steep, I'm sure you can get an ali plate for around 50.
Its my only router at the moment so I take it out when I need to, otherwise it stays in. The sagging isn't a huge issue tbh, it just means it needs shimming in the middle of the edges so that all the weight is not just on the corners. I've never noticed it not being accurate enough.

 

[paulrockliffe]

OK, I was after a Triton specific plate as the holes should be better located to get the bit right in the middle of the hole, but I guess that doesn't matter too much. Any idea where I can get a metal plate for £50 from?

 

[Krysstel]

I've also got a TRA001. Had it about a year. Bought it (second hand) as an upgrade from my previous MOF001.
Obviously the TRA is a lot more powerful than the MOF but it also has, IMO, an inferior collet. The MOF has a Dewalt/Elu style with a seperate collet loose in a collet nut. On the TRA the cutter shank is simply squeezed by a nut with slits in that tightens around the shank the harder you bolt it down. I've heard these split nuts on the TRAs can weaken over time although mine still seems fine after a year of use.
When I had the MOF I used a plastic Axminster plate which I drilled myself. Not difficult but bear in mind you also have to drill a 13mm hole for the height adjustment handle to go through.
I built a new table when I upgraded to the TRA and for this used a predrilled aluminium plate from Rockler. This one http://www.rockler.com/rockler-router-table-plates

A really good alternative to Triton used to be the Freud. These are now sold under the Fellisatti name but where in the UK (or if) they're available I don't know. Google is your friend :wink:
The height adjustment on the Freud seems (seemed) a lot better than the Triton system which consists of a long aluminium handle you stuff down a hole in the plate and attempt to mate with the adjuster on the router. Very hit and miss in my opinoin and experience. The adjuster on the Freud has a hexagonal bolt head that sits flush with the router's bottom plate. Much more accessable and you can even use a sawn off umbracco in a battery drill to raise and lower the router.
The Freud/Fellisatti also has a loose collet in a collet nut a-la DW/Elu.

Hope this helps.

Mark

 

[Woodmonkey]

http://www.axminster.co.uk/ujk-technolo ... sert-plate

 

[Krysstel]

I was curious so I did a bit of digging.
Found this http://shop.jvl-europe.com/FELISATTI-router-RF67/2200VE
And this http://www.gustavsenas.no/files/Freud/ft3000omtale.jpg - from Wood Magazine, Freud version of the same machine.

Mark

 

[fiacha]

Just checked mine and the collet appears to be the same as the DW / Elu one described above. A nut (with two flats) and a collet housed loosely inside it.

If the temperature in my garage ever gets above freezing, I'll get the router in the table and see about rigging up a a better height adjuster.

 

[paulrockliffe]

Thanks that's all very interesting!

That other router seems very hard to get hold of and is £300, compared to just £200 for the Triton, so the Triton is looking favourite at the moment.

 

[Krysstel]

Just checked mine and the collet appears to be the same as the DW / Elu one described above. A nut (with two flats) and a collet housed loosely inside it.

If the temperature in my garage ever gets above freezing, I'll get the router in the table and see about rigging up a a better height adjuster.

Triton TRA ?

Mark

 

[RogerS]

Do you remove the router when it's not being used? I wonder if that will help with sagging, I was thinking about making a support using a car bottle-jack to take the weight of the router when it's not in use as an alternative to removing it all the time.

....

No point in removing it. Why make work? A scissor jack is cheaper and works extremely well as a fine height adjuster.

With all the router tables I've had or made, I've never felt 'Ooh..that is sagging'.

 

[Steve Maskery]

I can't help with the Triton, but I do have views about the plates.
I had the black plastic plate to start with, the one with the red and grey inserts. They are sold under a number of different names. It was awful. The rings did not sit flush but were proud. This was supposed to be a design feature! It made routing noulded edges very unsatisfactory.Also the rings were VERY difficult to remove, I had to prise so hard I thought they would break.

Then I bought a cheap(ish) ali plate from somewhere beginning with T - it will come to me in a mo. That was infinitely better, but the rings needed a screwdriver for three screws.

I've had to replace that and this time I have bought the one that Peter Sefton sells. I forget the make. I've not yet fitted it, but it definitely looks the business. Solid, nicely finished, neat rings. I'm looking forward to using it.

 

[kostello]

Tilgear??

 

[paulrockliffe]

Couldn't find anything on the Tilgear website, though they do a 80cm x 60cm full top for about £50.

Interestingly that range of yellow router bits they do, I'm 95% certain are the same ones Aldi have in occasionally. They're selling a box of 12 for £77, which is identical to a set I have that cost well under £20 in Aldi when I got them. They're rubbish, but come in handy for rough trimming where there's no point using a sharp cutter.