Rounding to top edge of coffee table

[John15]

I'm in the process of finishing the edges of the top.
As you can see, I have chamfered the underside of one edge (by about 1/3rd) which I think will look OK and I now want to form a round-over the top edge. My question is, what would be the appropriate hand tool to use for this? I don't want to use a router. For the bottom edge I think a plane and sanding will be OK.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
John

 

[xy mosian]

That looks fine.
For the rounding over? use a hand plane and finish with spokeshave if needed. Plane regular flats/chamfers along the edges, then take the ridges off with narrower and narrower flats. When you get fed up with that scraper or sand paper.
xy

 

[Jacob]

Yes hand plane - 5 is best, followed by anything smaller, but not a spokeshave - you need a plane sole for straightness. You can either freehand it or mark up (gauge) the first chamfer for a precise 45º - freehand after that.
Long edges first then the end grain edges.

 

[DTR]

I agree with Jacob; sharp handplane followed by sandpaper. Personally I'd work the end grain first though.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I'd have gone end grain first, it's easier to control any breakout on the corners.

 

[bugbear]

I'd have gone end grain first, it's easier to control any breakout on the corners.

Yeah - any minor spelching will be removed when when you make the long grain cut.
Same as raising a panel with a panel raising plane; IIRC Roy Underhill explains this.

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

I'd have gone end grain first, it's easier to control any breakout on the corners.

Yeah - any minor spelching will be removed when when you make the long grain cut.
Same as raising a panel with a panel raising plane; IIRC Roy Underhill explains this.

BugBear

It spelches less if you do the long grain first. But you do the ends inwards from each side anyway.
Ditto with panel plane or over a TS (except only one way).
OK so it's (slightly) counter-intuitive but I've done this a lot.

 

[thetyreman]

I'd also say no5 or 5 1/2, lovely looking table, would love to see the finished piece

 

[bugbear]

I'd have gone end grain first, it's easier to control any breakout on the corners.

Yeah - any minor spelching will be removed when when you make the long grain cut.
Same as raising a panel with a panel raising plane; IIRC Roy Underhill explains this.

BugBear

It spelches less if you do the long grain first. But you do the ends inwards from each side anyway.

If you're coming in from the ends why on earth would it spelch AT ALL?

BugBear

 

[John15]

Many thanks for your replies. I'll use the plane and sandpaper method as you advise. Regarding spelching on the cross grain, I work from both ends but thanks for the warning.
I had intended to form an oval top but when it came to it the wood available (all recycled) wasn't long enough - disappointing but I'm sure the rectangular shape will look OK.
I've taken to long to make this table - many, many months. Too much stop and start. It should be finished 'soon'!!
Thanks again.

John

 

[Jacob]

........
Yeah - any minor spelching will be removed when when you make the long grain cut.
Same as raising a panel with a panel raising plane; IIRC Roy Underhill explains this.

BugBear

It spelches less if you do the long grain first. But you do the ends inwards from each side anyway.

If you're coming in from the ends why on earth would it spelch AT ALL?

BugBear

Because you might forget or just do a cautious finishing pass etc.
Hand planing fielded panels across the end grain is very easy and less likely to spelch if the long grain has been done first.

 

[thick_mike]

I do like that design.

 

[John15]

I do like that design.

Thanks Mike. It's based on Paul Seller's coffee table on his Masterclass series. I've reduced the sizes quite a bit as his was a bit 'heavy' for my taste.

John

 

[Jacob]

I was puzzling about why planing long grain before edge grain works. I think it's because the 'dihedral' angle between the two planes of the 45º bevel is less steep than the 90º of a normal board end and also as the blade goes off the end it's doing a slice rather than a straight all in one cut.
Something along those lines anyway. I can't be bothered to think about it more than that!

 

[bugbear]

Much better to have any spelching of the end grain happen in the waste, which is then removed when working the long grain, which doesn't spelch. Even more essential if using a panel raiser or working a complex moulding around a piece, when the plane cannot be reversed to come from both ends.

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

You should try it BB and you could find out for yourself.
Yes what you say sounds logical, but in fact it generally works better the other way round.

 

[bugbear]

You should try it BB and you could find out for yourself.
Yes what you say sounds logical, but in fact it generally works better the other way round.

Yeah, I've done it, thanks. Sounds logical, is logical, works well.

How do you propose to work the end grain last and avoid spelching with a non reversible plane,
which is (obvs) most moulding planes? Moulding all around a top is common
furniture making operation.

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

As I say - generally it spelches less if you do end grain second.
No point in arguing about it - I've done it lots of times and know what I'm talking about. Though obviously you take care as you go and look closely at what is happening - there are no guarantees and different circs may demand different approaches.

 

[bugbear]

As I say - generally it spelches less if you do end grain second.
No point in arguing about it - I've done it lots of times and know what I'm talking about. Though obviously you take care as you go and look closely at what is happening - there are no guarantees and different circs may demand different approaches.

Simply claiming you're right (repeatedly) isn't a discussion Jacob.

I'm challenging your idea, and I'm providing a reasoned argument. Prove me wrong! I might change my mind, if presented with evidence or reasoning.

Or you could grab a 6x6x0.5 inch bit of board (which might be something some a plant stand top), grab your favourite moulding plane, and try to work a moulding all the way round. Try it!

BugBear

 

[MatthewRedStars]

If Jacob is correct ( I have no idea) its probably because as the long grain bevel is removed, the end-grain-cut-breakout-direction becomes closer to 0 deg (no breakout) from 90 deg (lots of breakout).