ScottyT
Established Member
I’ve very nearly finished my wonderful ET/E table saw, I brought it last July in pretty rough order, but it was mostly complete and the price was way to good to pass up.
I didn’t give it any thought at the time so I don’t have any photos of it when I got it. It resembled an old horse shoe, and hadn’t been used for years.
Mechanically sound, if a little stiff in places, all I have done is simply take it all apart, and put it back together with a lick of paint along the way. Nothing fancy, and I tend not to paint my machines but this one really was looking sorry for itself.
18” saw, 7.5 HP direct drive motor, it makes easy work of it. Buttery smooth start up and friction brake assisted slowing of the saw make it a pleasure to use.
This saw has the crown guard all intact (I just need to fit the exhaust port for the extraction to finish it up) it has the rip fence attachment for straight rip cuts (avoids pinching up between fence and saw) the swivel fence for crown cuts which is a really good feature that I’ll show just a bit further down, and I have the quadrants with the beautiful bronze stops, just a superb bit of engineering. It also has the interchangeable bump and dead stop for the sliding table.
Just push the black wheel in to engage two notches that pick up the shaft that’s connected to the up/down rails. Release when the desired position is met and you’re on your way.
Interchangeable rebound or dead stop for the sliding table, it’s a very sure footed system, if you show a little sympathy in your machining this will never move when cutting up to it.
Bronze cages with hardened steel rollers make the table slide, it’s effortless and there is next to no lateral movement, the castings allows for dust to drop through with little problem. A very light rub with an oily rag once In a blue moon is all this will need. Removing the top was fairly straight forward, just 4 bolts attach it to the main casting, but it is immensely heavy and I was careful not to do anything silly and take my time.
Access is greatly improved to the motor with the top off, all I did was give it a lick over, lightly oiled the ways and removed the spindle to clean and re-grease the bearings. I also cleaned and greased the gearbox for the blade tilt, it’s a huge bevel gear in its own box well away from the really dusty parts of the machine.
The sliding table section pulls away from the main bed to allow easy access for changing the saw and to allow clearance for trenching heads and dados, I’ll post up on that in a later part of the thread.
These stops are bronze and are just lovely, I have two of them for both fences, there is negligible lateral movement (more than accurate enough for my woodwork) and they simply slide along the bar and a thumbscrew secures them solid.
The above two photos show two fence features. The first is it set at 45, and it’ll obviously go through to 90 and locked anywhere in between. The second photo is a rather neat feature where you angle the fence and perform a crown cut, either two relieve the back of a piece of stock so it can follow an outside radius, or to cut a coving small or large.
I have used it to perform both and it’s immense. Machining like this can turn the heat up so experience and confidence is important when performing work like this.
I use flat fire rope to seal all my electrical boxes to avoid ingress of dust, cheap and works a treat Very easy to apply. The large hand wheel on the left is for the rise and fall and the smaller wheel on the right is the tilt! It’ll go over to 45.
I’ll do a second parter for this if there’s any interest, chuck in a couple of videos showing some crown cuts and the trenching head etc: I need to find the mitre gauge too I’ve misplaced it with my spares. A great bit of old English iron that can do it all and it’ll go on forever and a day I’m sure.
I didn’t give it any thought at the time so I don’t have any photos of it when I got it. It resembled an old horse shoe, and hadn’t been used for years.
Mechanically sound, if a little stiff in places, all I have done is simply take it all apart, and put it back together with a lick of paint along the way. Nothing fancy, and I tend not to paint my machines but this one really was looking sorry for itself.
18” saw, 7.5 HP direct drive motor, it makes easy work of it. Buttery smooth start up and friction brake assisted slowing of the saw make it a pleasure to use.
This saw has the crown guard all intact (I just need to fit the exhaust port for the extraction to finish it up) it has the rip fence attachment for straight rip cuts (avoids pinching up between fence and saw) the swivel fence for crown cuts which is a really good feature that I’ll show just a bit further down, and I have the quadrants with the beautiful bronze stops, just a superb bit of engineering. It also has the interchangeable bump and dead stop for the sliding table.
Just push the black wheel in to engage two notches that pick up the shaft that’s connected to the up/down rails. Release when the desired position is met and you’re on your way.
Interchangeable rebound or dead stop for the sliding table, it’s a very sure footed system, if you show a little sympathy in your machining this will never move when cutting up to it.
Bronze cages with hardened steel rollers make the table slide, it’s effortless and there is next to no lateral movement, the castings allows for dust to drop through with little problem. A very light rub with an oily rag once In a blue moon is all this will need. Removing the top was fairly straight forward, just 4 bolts attach it to the main casting, but it is immensely heavy and I was careful not to do anything silly and take my time.
Access is greatly improved to the motor with the top off, all I did was give it a lick over, lightly oiled the ways and removed the spindle to clean and re-grease the bearings. I also cleaned and greased the gearbox for the blade tilt, it’s a huge bevel gear in its own box well away from the really dusty parts of the machine.
The sliding table section pulls away from the main bed to allow easy access for changing the saw and to allow clearance for trenching heads and dados, I’ll post up on that in a later part of the thread.
These stops are bronze and are just lovely, I have two of them for both fences, there is negligible lateral movement (more than accurate enough for my woodwork) and they simply slide along the bar and a thumbscrew secures them solid.
The above two photos show two fence features. The first is it set at 45, and it’ll obviously go through to 90 and locked anywhere in between. The second photo is a rather neat feature where you angle the fence and perform a crown cut, either two relieve the back of a piece of stock so it can follow an outside radius, or to cut a coving small or large.
I have used it to perform both and it’s immense. Machining like this can turn the heat up so experience and confidence is important when performing work like this.
I use flat fire rope to seal all my electrical boxes to avoid ingress of dust, cheap and works a treat Very easy to apply. The large hand wheel on the left is for the rise and fall and the smaller wheel on the right is the tilt! It’ll go over to 45.
I’ll do a second parter for this if there’s any interest, chuck in a couple of videos showing some crown cuts and the trenching head etc: I need to find the mitre gauge too I’ve misplaced it with my spares. A great bit of old English iron that can do it all and it’ll go on forever and a day I’m sure.
