Resawing tips

[Deadeye]

I'm making some door panels and need to halve some 230x32mm (section) timber.
I've planed both sides, so it's now just over 29mm, and I'd really like to get 12mm panels...so trying to get a kerf and two planed faces out of my last 5mm!
Any tips to keep the blade from drifting?
I could cut a tablesaw groove each side - I can get just under 90mm each side. Would the groove help direct the bandsaw blade? My tablesaw blade takes 3.2mm so really can't scuff the faces much with the bandsaw.

Thanks!

 

[Cabinetman]

Hi, 230 minus 2x 90 only leaves 2 inches which I would suggest you cut with a handsaw, a cheapish hardpoint will do it without any fuss if that’s what you have. I would do each 90 cut in two halves btw. A Bandsaw won’t necessarily follow the tablesaw kerfs as well as a handsaw. Best of luck, and don’t forget to put the cut timber in stick with weights on the top until you are sure it has stabilised.
Ian

 

[johnnyb]

I use a thick m42 blade and find it's often the wood that moves pushing the blade off. But as often nothing happens and it's fine. Thin blades can wander if there not newish.

 

[Jacob]

I'm making some door panels and need to halve some 230x32mm (section) timber.
I've planed both sides, so it's now just over 29mm, and I'd really like to get 12mm panels...so trying to get a kerf and two planed faces out of my last 5mm!
Any tips to keep the blade from drifting?
I could cut a tablesaw groove each side - I can get just under 90mm each side. Would the groove help direct the bandsaw blade? My tablesaw blade takes 3.2mm so really can't scuff the faces much with the bandsaw.

Thanks!

Yes the kerf slot will help. It's a handy way to split a board even if you could do the whole thing on a bandsaw. The slots guide the blade.
Main problem you might have is boards cupping as you saw them - can be better to split the sawn board before planing anything as you then have a bit more scope for correcting things.
NB trad panels usually thicker than your 12mm - fielded to a narrow edge to fit the rails/stiles slot. Better job perhaps. Plain fielding with no mouldings is easy with a sharp plane. Long grain bevels first then cross grain easy. Fitted flat side out to best face, but variations are common.