sploo
Somewhat extinguished member
There's no such thing as having too many clamps; it's physically impossible 
Resaw blade advice
- Thread starter bjgodefr
- Start date
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Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)
Established Member
The alternative to a point fence for re-awing is a shortened fence. This is the one I made for my Hammer N4400, and the rationale why ...
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered Tools and Machinery/ResawingOnTheBandsaw.html
With regards a blade, the wider the better. The width depends on the amount if tension the bandsaw frame will permit. The maximum I can go to is a 1” carbide Lenox Woodmaster CT, which is lucky for me as this is a superior blade. But the Hammer is topping out here, and smaller, lighter saws may only go to half this size. Carbide blades tend to be thicker and stiffer, requiring more tension. Also, the smaller wheels, such as below 16”, exert more bend on the blade and this will cause them to crack. I’ve had very good results from bimetal blades in the smaller sizes.
Regards from Perth
Derek
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered Tools and Machinery/ResawingOnTheBandsaw.html
With regards a blade, the wider the better. The width depends on the amount if tension the bandsaw frame will permit. The maximum I can go to is a 1” carbide Lenox Woodmaster CT, which is lucky for me as this is a superior blade. But the Hammer is topping out here, and smaller, lighter saws may only go to half this size. Carbide blades tend to be thicker and stiffer, requiring more tension. Also, the smaller wheels, such as below 16”, exert more bend on the blade and this will cause them to crack. I’ve had very good results from bimetal blades in the smaller sizes.
Regards from Perth
Derek
bjgodefr
Established Member
A good read and tip, thanks Derek.
After thinking on what you wrote, I see that my resawing experience was kind of the same: The first 40cm of the board cut well pushing it against a tall fence. But after the first 40 cm it started to veer off and I switched to a point fence.
Maybe repositioning my "tall" fence would also have worked.
bjgodefr
Established Member
Nice website Derek. Makes me want to buy Veritas tools ...
Some progress on the work bench, just oiled it with walnut oil (had it lying around for salads, seems to be a drying oil). Thinned it with white spirit.
bjgodefr
Established Member
The top is now back at 6,5cm thickness, just as it was before I hand planed 1,5cm off of it 
.
I have some JUUMA Holdfast clamp which seem to work really well in the dog holes now that bench has this thickness (I also use these in a home made mft style top, but as it is not as thick, they grip a bit less).
.I have some JUUMA Holdfast clamp which seem to work really well in the dog holes now that bench has this thickness (I also use these in a home made mft style top, but as it is not as thick, they grip a bit less).
bjgodefr
Established Member
MARK.B.
Established Member
Glad you got that sawted out and that top looks great I don't know if it will help and I have no financial interest in this but if you do want Tuff Saw blades, I would be happy to repost on to you at your expense .
That is unless someone knows a reason why this can't be done
I don't know if it will help and I have no financial interest in this but if you do want Tuff Saw blades, I would be happy to repost on to you at your expense .That is unless someone knows a reason why this can't be done
bjgodefr
Established Member
Glad you got that sawted out and that top looks great
That is unless someone knows a reason why this can't be done
Thanks for this!
But I'm really happy with the blade from bandsaegeshop, which I ordered in Germany.
The advice wasn't as good as you get from Tuff Saw, but the blade works well
