Removing the wire edge?

[bugbear]

Only to reinforce silicon carbide property I'll say I tried that powder for flattening plane sole.. WOW it's so quick to do it compare to SC paper.

Tell me more, please. I've not heard of this being done very often.

Detail, details we want details (Per piacere)!

BugBear

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks guys, loads of great advise as always!

I think I might just stick to my waterstones, for a while………..Although now I purchased new planes with A2 blades, will the sharpening process take that much longer? And will my waterstones be up to it, without taking eternity to sharpen them? I’ve currently got the Ice bear kit from Axminster, which consists of 800 and 6000, grit stones! Or would a diamond stone help to reduce sharpening time on the A2 blades? :?

Cheers

Nads

I have A2 blade in a dozen planes and each takes about 3 minutes to sharpen on a 1000 grit followed by 6000 grit waterstone

 

[Nads]

Cool,

Thanks gugs, looks like my waterstones will still be more than up to sharpening my new A2 blades. Once again great advise all around! :lol:

Nads

 

[GEPPETTO]

Only to reinforce silicon carbide property I'll say I tried that powder for flattening plane sole.. WOW it's so quick to do it compare to SC paper.

Tell me more, please. I've not heard of this being done very often.

Detail, details we want details (Per piacere)!

BugBear

Hi bugbear, I simply put a bit of powder on a thick plate of glass with kerosene or water as lubricant. I saw that on the "Handplane book" of Garret. I found it is more efficient than SC paper because it doesn't clog and the entire process is more quick.

Cheers, Gabriele

 

[j]

Does this also grind down your glass plate?

 

[Alf]

Bottom article here. I think the idea of the mylar is to help hold the grit to prevent it sloshing about abrading the substrate as well - or am I way off?

Cheers, Alf

 

[GEPPETTO]

Does this also grind down your glass plate?

I think. Tha glass become opacified. However I think if you take advantage of all the surface it doesn't become too much concave. :?: . Naturally I should change the glass after few planes, I think. I did read somewhere one could use a flat surface of mild iron on which to put the carbide powder. The powder clogs into the mild iron and all acts as abrasive paper. It could be used a plastic film on a flat surface with the same result.
However I followed the Garret Hack method because I'm newbie and I was tired to glue a lot of sandpaper because it wears very quick.

Do you only flatten sole plane onto SC paper?

Cheers. Gabriele

 

[bugbear]

Do you only flatten sole plane onto SC paper?

Cheers. Gabriele

And with no further opportunity required, the obsessive leapt!

http://www.geocities.com/plybench/flatten.html

BugBear

 

[Sam Salter]

Going back to the wire edge:-

I'm still new at this sharpening cult (woe is me saith the apprentice!) but what I've picked up I got from Rob Cosman at a course I attended last summer.

He was using (and so am I now!) Norton water stones.

To get the wire edge off, after honing the secondary bevel by hand - I am not worthy! - he used an 8000 grit stone with a small 6" rule laid flat along one edge. He laid the back of the blade on top of the rule so the cutting edge was close to the other side of the stone. A few passes "rubbed off" a complete wire edge, the width of the plane blade. The blade ended up with a 3rd edge at a very slight angle on the back of the blade. (Thickness of the steel rule).
He did this 2 or 3 times and got an intact "wire" every time.

I'm not sure if this is good, but I was certainly impressed. Needless to say, I've not managed to get it, ...but I've got a few bits now and again.

sam

 

[Paul Chapman]

Sam,

He pinched that idea from David Charlesworth, who calls it his "ruler trick".

Paul

 

[Sam Salter]

Yes - and to be fair, I'm sure he mentioned that at the time.
sam

 

[GEPPETTO]

......he used an 8000 grit stone with a small 6" rule laid flat along one edge. He laid the back of the blade on top of the rule so the cutting edge was close to the other side of the stone........

Sam, if I dont' have misunderstood the blade is faced with the stone at a very little angle, considerind the thick of the rule.

..The blade ended up with a 3rd edge at a very slight angle on the back of the blade. (Thickness of the steel rule).

Did he make a back bevel?

Certainly a picture could explain much better than one thousand of words :roll: .


Cheers, Gabriele

 

[j]

I think I saw this trick in both of their videos.

The ruler is used to raise up the blade to give a very slight bevel on the back of the plane blade. So the blade is raised by about 1-2mm depending on how thick your ruler is. If you get a chance to see either of these videos, I'm sure you'll learn a lot.

As David says: "Only plane blades, never chisels please"

 

[Paul Chapman]

David Charlesworth also describes the "ruler trick" in his book 'David Charlesworth's Furniture-Making Techniques, volume two'.

Paul

 

[Jasper Homminga]

Did he make a back bevel?

Yes.
BUT let's say your ruler is 1mm thick, the blade projects about 10cm beyond that, so the back bevel would be 0.57 degrees. I doubt one would notice the difference in planing properties, but I know one would notice the reduction in sharpening time!

Jasper
ps. a 2mm ruler would result in a 1.1 degree back bevel.

 

[Sam Salter]

Yes it's a back bevel - just like J's explanation.
We're talking 10 seconds on the stone. Just enough to take off the wire edge.

I'm not sure if this has cropped up in this thread, but when you get to these very small sizes, flatness of stones is important.

Cosman flattened his stones against each other very often - 4 or 5 times during the sharpening process. But as the "out of flatness" was very small, it took very little off the stones and took just a few seconds.

I've got 3 stones (1000 / 4000 / 8000 grit). I alternate the stones when flattening so they all get to flatten each other & no 2 stones get to "mate".

sam