Removing Spray Adhesive From A Float Glass Lapping Plate

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pollys13

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My Rider planes could do with being a smidgen flatter.
I bought a granite worktop saver from Argos but Mr Veritas said it wasn't flat enough, so back it went.
I then saw the Axminster glass lapping plate, not really big enough to run a No 5 backwards and forwards and the plate wasn't very thick.
Soon after I spotted the Workshop Heaven version, float glass lapping plate 470mm X 220mm X 10mm x £27+ :)
So I bought that, Paul Sellers has a blog and video on flatting the planes of soles, his approach came over as being very sensible.
I also had a look at the Chris Schwarz video on how to do it, again a knowledgeable approach.

Though Mr Schwarz uses 80 and 120 grit Zirconia blue metal sanding belts. Mr Sellers uses a 240 brown couldn't find that grit at a reasonable price on Ebay.

So will go with a sort of combination of both approaches, with the same end result in mind.
If anyone is interested, took a while to find decent priced Zircona blue belts, this is the Ebay item number. Could have done with being 100mm wide but think 75 will do. Item number 151569551952 seller name mathardwareltd

I also bought two cans of heavy duty spray adhesive.... yes, best price if you buy two :) says on can, multi purpose, ideal for card, paper, fabric, carpet, leather and much more. Think you can also get a good hit if you give it a good sniff :)

Anyway seriously, what I'm wondering is. After sticking the abrasive onto the glass, how can I remove it all without running the risk of cruding up the glass?
Cheers.
 
I stick self adhesive abrasives to a granite slab for honing. Acetone gets the residue off. You can get small quantities from Pound Land and the like, where it's sold as nail varnish remover.
 
custard":gkisl77d said:
I stick self adhesive abrasives to a granite slab for honing. Acetone gets the residue off. You can get small quantities from Pound Land and the like, where it's sold as nail varnish remover.
Ah, great minds shop alike :). Also Poundland etc ,their DVD cleaner comes with a little bottle of isopropyl alcohol . Very good for removing greasy marks from monitors and keyboards. I just bought a disc & disc drive cleaning set, Disc Wizard, contains two x 10ml bottles of cleaning fluid and also two identical cleaning discs. Pretty good for a quid.
Thanks for the tip, next time in town will pop into Poundland any idea of what volume I might need?
Just read your post on timber sourcing, as ever, very impressive knowledge you have.
 
I use cellulose thinners, it's so handy for so many things in the workshop especially removing sap from blades
 
Doug B":17lc6olp said:
I use cellulose thinners, it's so handy for so many things in the workshop especially removing sap from blades
Ah OK brill, I have an unopened tin from when I restored my Beetle. I did get a couple of 4.5s of paraffin and a big flower pot base for soaking blades in to remove pitch. Once again...... best price B&Q :)
 
can u not scrape it off with your freshly honed iron (hammer)

get my coat

Steve
 
There's a neat trick:

Start with a heavier solvent: WD40. Give it a minute or so to combine with the adhesive and then wipe off what you can with paper towels. Clean the remainder off with meths or isopropyl alcohol.

It works a lot better than going straight for the meths or the IPO.
 
dynax":26egitlc said:

You can get those from pound shop too :)

I've done what Erik said when it's really gunky, wd 40 or white spirit, let it sit and work it a bit with a scraper / old credit card, get the worst of it off then universal thinners for the rest.

for lapping long planes (metal and wood) I bought a 10mm thick float glass rectangle some 30" long and 6" wide (for £15 inc delivery from somewhere up north) bedded that down onto a section of 20mm flat slate with silicone, and set both of them onto a section of 20mm thick woodchip offcut, it's heavy to lug about, but stable.

I've made a sort of clamping setup to take heavy duty 40 grit zirconium sanding belts cut into strips, but I can also put wet n dry directly onto the glass.

It's prolly not as good as a calibrated lapping granite, but it must be pretty close.
 
You might try margarine - it's efficiency is obviously dependent on the specific glue type, however it is excellent at removing e.g. the residues left when you have removed double-sided tape from glass and a thin tough to rub off skin is left.
It's also surprisingly good for heavy degreasing of hands - obviously you'll need to use conventional soap after but it's a lot more skin friendly than say Swarfega or undiluted washing up liquid
/Ed
 
imageel":3353e3rf said:
You might try margarine - it's efficiency is obviously dependent on the specific glue type, however it is excellent at removing e.g. the residues left when you have removed double-sided tape from glass and a thin tough to rub off skin is left.
It's also surprisingly good for heavy degreasing of hands - obviously you'll need to use conventional soap after but it's a lot more skin friendly than say Swarfega or undiluted washing up liquid
/Ed

That's a jolly good idea. I was about to say, "I'll try that!" when I realised we don't have any in the house - gone over to olive spread mostly.

I'll ask the Domestic Controller... :)
 
Coconut oil is good too. I use it for getting sticker gunk off LP sleeves. Works a treat.

Idly wandering around Ikea Bargain Corner this afternoon saw a pallet full of glass doors (about 500x150mm) in frames for a couple of quid each. Thought they would make great lapping plates for scary sharp use.
 
Diesel I find gets rid of most things, sap residue, labels and most glues.
 
Eric The Viking":2jcmq69o said:
There's a neat trick:

Start with a heavier solvent: WD40. Give it a minute or so to combine with the adhesive and then wipe off what you can with paper towels. Clean the remainder off with meths or isopropyl alcohol.

It works a lot better than going straight for the meths or the IPO.
OK cheers.
 
Eric The Viking":3p8c1xpd said:
There's a neat trick:

Start with a heavier solvent: WD40. Give it a minute or so to combine with the adhesive and then wipe off what you can with paper towels. Clean the remainder off with meths or isopropyl alcohol.

It works a lot better than going straight for the meths or the IPO.
OK thanks.
 
rafezetter":1jn94set said:
dynax":1jn94set said:

You can get those from pound shop too :)

I've done what Erik said when it's really gunky, wd 40 or white spirit, let it sit and work it a bit with a scraper / old credit card, get the worst of it off then universal thinners for the rest.

for lapping long planes (metal and wood) I bought a 10mm thick float glass rectangle some 30" long and 6" wide (for £15 inc delivery from somewhere up north) bedded that down onto a section of 20mm flat slate with silicone, and set both of them onto a section of 20mm thick woodchip offcut, it's heavy to lug about, but stable.

I've made a sort of clamping setup to take heavy duty 40 grit zirconium sanding belts cut into strips, but I can also put wet n dry directly onto the glass.

It's prolly not as good as a calibrated lapping granite, but it must be pretty close.
Cheers for that.
 
99% Isopropyl alcohol will dissolve most adhesives and leaves no residue. Otherwise, acetone, as already suggested but I was under the impression acetone had been removed from nail varnish removers under EU regs? I stand to be corrected on that, but certainly the brand my wife uses is no longer acetone based.

Incidentally, isopropyl is unbelievably good for cleaning stainless steel in the kitchen. It literally just melts grease. Our cooker and extractor has never been so shiny. Only downside is, you really need to remember to open a window because it doesn't half give you a headache if you forget, like I did. lol.

£7 a litre is what I paid recently.
 
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