JFC":1i5dhkg1 said:
I hope you dont mind me tagging a question onto your post but i found my saw set today and was going to post on how to use it but it seems silly to have 2 threads on the same subject . Its an eclipse no 77 saw set and the bolt on the top spins a setting bed that is beveled so as you turn it the set gets bigger . my question is how you decide what setting to put it at ? Put it on the saw and just bend the tooth a little or is it a definite science ?
Hi JFC,
I'm not familiar with the Eclipse. But the point will be the same--which is to say really general advice.
I set (and file) saws for specific woods and or uses. In general, for most of us we use moderately hard, dry woods in making furniture. In that case for say a general purpose tenon saw that will be called upon to both rip and cross cut cleanly, I strive for little set. If I were to use your set for the first time, I would have the set's anvil wheel rotated to produce nearly no set--unless when I looked at it it was still too much.
Saw sets have different anvils and strike pin sizes. For about 12 ppi and below, its range is quite large and the pin is likewise heavier and thicker. A set made for small teeth has less range on the anvil and a smaller pin.
I have a couple dozen sets, from various hand held ones, to ones you strike with a hammer. Only two (or 3) of the sets have a reasonable mix of strike pin and anvil shape when it comes to 15 ppi and finer.
In practice, I always set the teeth with as little set as possible and if needed after a test cut, increase the set. The only exception to this is when I know the saw is either a general use saw or one used primarily on softwoods (fiber springback). In this case, I use more set to begin with and keep a couple 4 x 2s of Pine and "White wood", one wet and one dry. And after testing the cut, I may still add more set.
In use, one should use consistent pressure from tooth to tooth, flip the saw around and use the same pressure on the set.
For 12 ppi and up cross cut filed saws, use less set as one gets higher ppi. At 18 ppi and higher, use no set at all.
For less than 12 ppi crosscut saws, use increasing set as one goes down in ppi. I have a 5 1/2 ppi crosscut that is set about 1/3 of the way to my favorite set's settings. I would consider this the coarsest set I would ever do.
On rip filed saws, little set is advised anyway. My 4 1/2 Spear & Jackson rip has enough set I can feel it, but is pretty difficult to see.
So my advice would be to be prepared to set the teeth maybe a couple times until you have what you consider enough. The goal on 12 ppi and higher saws is to be able to cut the type of wood you intend on using a particular saw on so that there is no binding and little correction during a cut is possible. In general, this is very little set.
For higher ppi cross cut saws, add enough set that one can correct a wandering cut--but this in general is still less set than any commercial saw (save LN, Adria and, well, me).
So start out on about the lowest setting for saws used in joinery, more on other types saws.
Take care, Mike
