Recommendation for power sanding inside deep bowls

[leisurefix]

I have been looking and struggling to find a decent solution for power sanding the inside of deep undercut bowls, imagine a 5 to 6" diameter slightly ball shaped bowl that is undercut. I use a Bosch drill with 2" Simon Hope arbors, which are great, but will not fit I side the bowl to do the undercut parts. I have a 12v Bosch cordless drill driver with right angle attachment, the tool itself is excellent, but not for sanding. Trigger is tiring to hold, and speed is slightly too slow, and batteries wear out fairly quick.
Have considered variable speed angle grinder, but min speed is 2800rpm which i think may be too fast. Have also looked at Makita Da3010 angle drill, but it is £200 (if it is the best option then will accept the cost). There is also the proxxon long neck angle grinder, or polisher which are similar tools, just different speeds. Lastly there is the King Arthur Merlin2, but that seems more suited to sculpting than sanding.
Does anyone have experience of using these and would recommend them, or any other options.
Thanks in advance,
Andy

 

[Dalboy]

I use the hope inertia sanding system and let the bowl turn the disc this does produce a good finish

 

[Paul Hannaby]

I use the Makita right angle drill. For me that's better all round than the inertia sanders as I can use it with the lathe stationary too. I have the mains powered version of the angle drill - cheaper than the battery version. I went for the version with a keyed chuck as it sticks out less than the keyless chuck.

 

[CHJ]

I use a small Bosch battery drill run off a low volt power supply (batteries died years ago). For he same stationary sanding reasons as Paul.
I use the Hope Velcro pads and square cut the bulk of my abrasive from strip stock, the subsequent corner flaps are usually enough to get under any rim undercut on bowls even with a straight Chuck.

This is with a foam disc pad fitted, not the square cut abrasive by shows the converted battery hand drill.

 

[leisurefix]

Thank you for the replies, I think that the best solution is the Makita, if money was not a consideration.
Because of that cost I had another go last night with the Offset Screwdriver Attachment I have had for ages, a chromed slippery devil of a thing that gets rather hot. I then had a bit of a brainwave, and drilled a 7/8" hole in a piece of wood, and used that instead of the metal "wing". This is working quite well as provides a much better grip, and does not get hot.
May have a go at making a single "tube" with 43mm hole at one end for the drill collar, and 7/8" the other for the screwdriver attachment.
Thanks,
Andy

 

[Hornbeam]

I use a small Bosch battery drill run off a low volt power supply (batteries died years ago).
I really like this

 

[CHJ]

I use a small Bosch battery drill run off a low volt power supply (batteries died years ago).
I really like this

I find I get on better with the slower rpm of the drill, seems to be a better cutting action and generates less heat.
Been looking for a similar unit to take its place when it wears out, my smallest maketa which is next in line for such duties is somewhat bulkier.

 

[Jonzjob]

I have had one of these for years now, although it didn't cost me that much https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-h ... nit-300228

It has a 6mm collett in the hand piece and is so very easy to use. I hae never understood anyone hoiking a dammed great drill/driver around when you can have such a small foot controlled hand set. I use my right hand for the sanding and the left to hold the suction from my tool vac to get the dust produced. That way you can get the dust where it is being produced. OK, it's now a bit expensive, but if you have a mains Dremel you can do the same with that, although not for extended periods.

Mine has paid for its self over the years.

 

[Robbo3]

I posted these in my Tips & tricks thread. Not necessarily a recommendation but just to give you further ideas.

Warning. Don't use the forceps with your fingers through the holes. If the abrasive snags you could do yourself a serious injury.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I have had one of these for years now, although it didn't cost me that much https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-h ... nit-300228

A flexible drive from a drill achieves much the same thing.

 

[Jonzjob]

The biggest difference is the noise, that drive is almost silent, and the foot control. I tried a flex drive on my drill and that's why I have the heavy duty flex drive.

Also, if you are in to carving there is a carving head that replaces the spinny one.

You pays yer money etc.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

and get a Foredom.

 

[leisurefix]

I use a small Bosch battery drill run off a low volt power supply (batteries died years ago).
I really like this

I find I get on better with the slower rpm of the drill, seems to be a better cutting action and generates less heat.
Been looking for a similar unit to take its place when it wears out, my smallest maketa which is next in line for such duties is somewhat bulkier.

I like a medium rpm, my battery drills are just a little too slow for my liking. Have you looked on Ebay for a replacement drill when your Bosch dies, as have seen them, I have a similar model to yours although screwdriver only rather than drill driver so just 400rpm.

 

[leisurefix]

I have had one of these for years now, although it didn't cost me that much https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-h ... nit-300228

It has a 6mm collett in the hand piece and is so very easy to use. I hae never understood anyone hoiking a dammed great drill/driver around when you can have such a small foot controlled hand set. I use my right hand for the sanding and the left to hold the suction from my tool vac to get the dust produced. That way you can get the dust where it is being produced. OK, it's now a bit expensive, but if you have a mains Dremel you can do the same with that, although not for extended periods.

Mine has paid for its self over the years.

Thank you for the suggestion. How do you connect sanding arbours? The hand piece is 6mm, but I only have 1/4" hex arbours.
Thanks, Andy

 

[leisurefix]

I posted these in my Tips & tricks thread. Not necessarily a recommendation but just to give you further ideas.



Thank you, that was one of the affordable suggestions I was hoping for. Found your hints & tips post, and the link for the 60 to 320 grit flap wheels, will order some and give them a try. Do they last well, and easy to rejuvenate with sanding cleaner?
Cheers, Andy

 

[Robbo3]

I posted these in my Tips & tricks thread. Not necessarily a recommendation but just to give you further ideas.



Thank you, that was one of the affordable suggestions I was hoping for. Found your hints & tips post, and the link for the 60 to 320 grit flap wheels, will order some and give them a try. Do they last well, and easy to rejuvenate with sanding cleaner?
Cheers, Andy

Although I haven't had them very long I've given a couple of the flap wheels a fair amount of work without any noticeable deterioration so only time will tell about long term use.
I also haven't tried cleaning them with my chunk of dried silicon sealer but no doubt the time will come.

 

[Jonzjob]

I have had one of these for years now, although it didn't cost me that much https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-h ... nit-300228

It has a 6mm collett in the hand piece and is so very easy to use. I hae never understood anyone hoiking a dammed great drill/driver around when you can have such a small foot controlled hand set. I use my right hand for the sanding and the left to hold the suction from my tool vac to get the dust produced. That way you can get the dust where it is being produced. OK, it's now a bit expensive, but if you have a mains Dremel you can do the same with that, although not for extended periods.

Mine has paid for its self over the years.

Thank you for the suggestion. How do you connect sanding arbours? The hand piece is 6mm, but I only have 1/4" hex arbours.
Thanks, Andy

I use these https://www.axminster.co.uk/flexipads-s ... s-ax835839 and I have a load of Rhynogrip abrasives and I normally cut my own disks. But if I'm feeling lazy then I have some 2" diskd too. It just took me a few minutes to get the hang of the foot control and then you can match the speed to where you are on your sanding piece. Faster in the center and slower around the perifery. Good 'ere init :mrgreen:

Edit : - I forgot to say that I bought the Rhynogrip via one of the guys on here, but with my perfect memory I forgot just who? I'm sure that someone here will know ?

 

[Robbo3]

Edit : - I forgot to say that I bought the Rhynogrip via one of the guys on here, but with my perfect memory I forgot just who? I'm sure that someone here will know ?

Richard Finley
- http://www.turnersworkshop.co.uk/

 

[Jonzjob]

He's the man Robbo and very helpful too. He sent a fair amount of styff over to me when I lived in France and was ready to supply answers to all of my questions too.

He assured me that I could use the Rhynogrip abrasives on mt Carrol sander drums as I was unsure and I haven't looked back.

 

[Spence]

Marius Hornberger made one that attaches to an angle grinder for very aggressive sanding. You can find it on YouTube.