Re-sawing on the table saw

[PAC1]

Roy
I was taught to make tea first, sweep up second and then allowed near the machines. I think my problem was I am left handed and was using a push stick. My body ended up behind the timber. I taught myself to do this right handed after this incident as you are naturally to the side of the timber.

 

[Digit]

Yes, without a doubt an apprenticeship is useful! :lol: :lol:
And yes, machines are for RH people and I can see that that would create problems for lefties.

Roy.

 

[flounder]

When I was an apprentice and started using machinery, the first thing the old foreman taught me was 'Never put your finger where you wouldn't put your dick!' :lol:

 

[Digit]

I'd forgotten that one! 'Tother one was when usinga a hacksaw, 'get your balls swinging!'
How much of the older Newort Pagnell is still around, or is it it covered with concrete cows now?

Roy.

 

[dedee]

I've done this too but swore I'd never do it again

The riving knife on the kity is higher than the blade so had to be removed. I took it nice and slow but never felt comfortable. I'll not be adjusting the riving knife either as a deterrent to trying this again.

Andy

 

[jimi43]

Karl

I am indebted to you for posting this thread. I have never tried this but have a piece of mahogany that is JUST too wide to resaw in my bandsaw so I was contemplating the table saw method.

This morning, indeed in the early hours, I was having a graphic dream of how just to do this safely and my conclusion in the twix twain state was to install a high fence. Then I thought of making an L shaped "carrier" fence which would run along the real fence with the mahogany plank clamped to the high side thus:

The subfence is free to move back and forth against the existing fence carrying the stock through the blade with the hand pushing (or pushstick) and being protected by the vertical MDF section of the L shaped sub-fence.

The stock does not kickback so easily as it is clamped to the subfence. Once one side is through using progressive raising of the blade so as not to create too much friction surface, the stock is rotated and cut from the other side.

Any thoughts?

Jim

Does this make sense?

 

[Digit]

Any thoughts?

Just the one.
Don't do it!!!

The most difficult part of the job is keeping the board that you are cutting vertical. Forget the subfence and fit a high fence that is short in length.

Roy.

 

[OPJ]

Also, Jim, unless I'm reading your diagram incorrectly, the blade would be fully exposed at the end of the cut. :?

 

[Digit]

All sorts of things beside plain cutting can be performed on a TS, with planning.
I'm building a cabinet for my computer gear. Side view is 'L' shaped, (no pics, son's got my camera!)
The part where the keyboard will sit forms the top of the wide part of the 'L'.
This means that the first part of this shelf where it sits in place is mitred to the base, where it vanishes into the narrower uprights it sits in a groove.
How to cut the mitres?
The one edge can be cut by angling the blade to 45 degrees, the opposite could only be cut by feeding the panel into the rear of the blade.
No No! I hear.
This meant a cross cut blade, no knife and the risk of the panel lifting.
I fashioned a jig that held the panel in place and prevented it from lifting as the SIP TS has a 'T' groove in the top.
Job done!

Roy.

 

[dickm]

How much of the older Newort Pagnell is still around, or is it it covered with concrete cows now?

Roy.

Well, when I left there a couple of years ago, it was still mostly intact (could be a lovely little town) but most of Aston Martin had moved out.

I guess we've all "had to" resaw using table saw, but like others, I would strongly recommend against. Find someone nearby from the forum who has a bandsaw. Happy to offer mine, but I think Aberdeen might be a bit far

 

[Digit]

Shame about Aston, lovely cars.

Roy.

 

[ondablade]

Thanks for the input guys. I guess it's like all these things. Rule based digital thinking (yes/no, black/white) may keep you safe, but usually at the expense of ruling out the viable alternatives which are often the source of progress.

Climb cutting on a spindle moulder is perhaps something a little similar - you can do it with care set up right and with a good power feeder.

On the other hand just because you can do it doesn't mean it's safe.

A solution means you've got to figure it out correctly - both in terms of intelligent methods - after (the rub) seeing all the ways it could go wrong. You pays your money and takes your pick i guess, at least working alone anyway.

I can imagine that a sliding table saw would help enormously too, in that if you can fixture the piece then you can stand well away.

Trouble with this is that you're still left with the bogging/clogging issue, and the less easily fixed the earlier problem (if you are resawing a thin plank and not just slotting) of how you clamp the piece if the second cut is to go right through.

Just theorising - but maybe a vacuum chuck on a vertical fixture???

ian

 

[flounder]

How much of the older Newort Pagnell is still around, or is it it covered with concrete cows now?

Roy.

Well, when I left there a couple of years ago, it was still mostly intact (could be a lovely little town) but most of Aston Martin had moved out.

We are now all waiting for tesco to move into the old Aston Martin site! There are new houses going up around the edges but most of the old parts still remain.

and the concrete cows are across the border in Milton Keynes!

 

[Digit]

I thought Newport had been swallowed up by MK by now! The place was spreading like plague when I lived in Newton Longville. One of the reasons we left.

Roy.

 

[TheTiddles]

There's two things that are very important to remember here, one is the size of the tablesaw and the other is the size of the wood. A large blade and a small bit of wood will make a lovely missile launcher, however a piddly little Axminster TS200 and a big chunk of beech/ash/oak or any other wood I've recently re-sawn in exactly this way will just slow down and stop if it binds

Aidan

 

[OPJ]

Aidan, I agree with your comment on the size of the timber but I still think that even a smaller circular saw blade is as capable of launching a missile as a larger blade. I've managed to jam the blade on an industrial Wadkin saw with a 125mm maximum depth of cut (I was trying to cut 3in. sapele, at the time... ). No kickback though, as you may have guessed. :wink:

I'd also be careful if you do this sort of thing (...stalling the blade! ) regularly on your TS200 as I doubt the motors are rated any higher than Trade. :?

 

[TheTiddles]

Aidan, I agree with your comment on the size of the timber but I still think that even a smaller circular saw blade is as capable of launching a missile as a larger blade. I've managed to jam the blade on an industrial Wadkin saw with a 125mm maximum depth of cut (I was trying to cut 3in. sapele, at the time... ). No kickback though, as you may have guessed. :wink:

I'd also be careful if you do this sort of thing (...stalling the blade! ) regularly on your TS200 as I doubt the motors are rated any higher than Trade. :?

I love the smell of insulation in the morning.

Actually I don't, clearing space and funds for a bandsaw

Aidan

 

[Digit]

I subject that has not arisen with this thread is the blade.
I use exclusively Freud Pro series with their kick back limiting technology, and I have never had a trace of kick back since adopting the Freud blades.
Coincidence?

Roy

 

[jhwbigley]

Aidan, I agree with your comment on the size of the timber but I still think that even a smaller circular saw blade is as capable of launching a missile as a larger blade. I've managed to jam the blade on an industrial Wadkin saw with a 125mm maximum depth of cut (I was trying to cut 3in. sapele, at the time... ). No kickback though, as you may have guessed. :wink:

I'd also be careful if you do this sort of thing (...stalling the blade! ) regularly on your TS200 as I doubt the motors are rated any higher than Trade. :?

If you find the wood pinching on the blade or stalling it, pull it back a bit and push it through again. I find it works, not that I've needed to do it much, even when ripping some 3" padauk on my little startrite, it just powered its way through 8) .


JHB

 

[clewlowm]

why would you want to pull the wood back from the sawblade? you have a bigger chance of the blade pushing the wood towards you then? saw it happen once and the poor lad lost 3no fingers.