Ray Iles D2 irons

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Longer screws are readily available from Clifton, L-N and maybe Ray.

D2 is very good, not sure of the precise comparison with A2 but Ray must have his reasons.

Frog may need adjustment and very occasionally some judicious mouth filing. Not a big problem..... Performance and edge holding will be greatly improved.

best wishes,
David
 
Hello Bob,

50% thicker would put the blade into the 0.09x- inch range, which is the approx. thickness of Lie Nielsen's replacement blades which have been on the market for years. No guarantee the blade will fit a specific plane you have, though. My limited experience is that the 50% thicker blade will allow the tang of the lateral adjust lever to engage the cap iron.

Regarding D2, here is a link to Crucible Service Centers, who are well-regarded steel vendors on the left side of the big water from you:

http://www.crucibleservice.com/datash/A ... N=93594853

Note in the comparison chart that D2 is more abrasive resistant than A2, and about twice as abrasive resistant as O1 (regular high carbon steel). Based on that, you can expect this steel to be difficult to sharpen using conventional oil, water, or ceramic stones, and I would want someone with specific experience to tell me what will be required to sharpen a D2 blade, before I would invest in one.

Wiley
 
I don't have experience of D2 in plane irons, but do have a couple of Ray's D2 mortice chisels.

I've had no problem lapping the backs (not that much was required - much better than AI chisels) and find they take and hold an edge well (obviously, this is at a more obtuse angle than might be used on a plane iron.)

As I understand it (and I may well be mistaken) D2 is supposed to be tougher (not harder) than O1 and A2.

Cheers
Steve
 
Many thanks for the answers.

I'm wondering for the thickness of these D2 blades since both Lie-Nielsen and Hock (which I all ready have) blades are around 0.095" thick (+20% compared to original blades) but a 50% more it should rise the thickness up to 0.120", which may be to much.
 
D2 sharpens perfectly with my system.

800 coarse & 8 or 10,000 grit polishing, waterstones.

But then so does everything except the powder metallurgy blades.

David
 
I just saw that Ray Iles makes D2 irons for stanley planes. These blades are 50% thicker than original irons.

http://www.oldtools.free-online.co.uk/spares.htm

How can they fit in the plane?

You might have to increase the setback of the cap iron and might find adjustment difficulties because the spur of the yoke has difficulty in engaging with the cap iron's aperture.
 
WhiskyFoxtrot":2kjk9h8f said:
I just saw that Ray Iles makes D2 irons for stanley planes. These blades are 50% thicker than original irons.

http://www.oldtools.free-online.co.uk/spares.htm

How can they fit in the plane?

You might have to increase the setback of the cap iron and might find adjustment difficulties because the spur of the yoke has difficulty in engaging with the cap iron's aperture.

This is a problem that can be easily solved if you have a cast iron 'Y' lever as a small piece of gauge plate can be silver soldered onto the top and then filed to shape:

nowieirjwoduj.jpg


but if you have a newer one made from some obscure alloy that's about as hard as bit of cheddar then a different approach is required:

mmflslslsl.jpg


In this one I've still used a piece of steel gauge plate but it has been super-glued on and then a piece of spring steel rod has been glued down the centre to give a bit more strength. Both ways of lengthening the 'Y' lever work equally well and are essential IMO if a thicker blade is fitted - Rob
 
woodbloke":3hcdmhdu said:
WhiskyFoxtrot":3hcdmhdu said:
I just saw that Ray Iles makes D2 irons for stanley planes. These blades are 50% thicker than original irons.

http://www.oldtools.free-online.co.uk/spares.htm

How can they fit in the plane?

You might have to increase the setback of the cap iron and might find adjustment difficulties because the spur of the yoke has difficulty in engaging with the cap iron's aperture.

This is a problem that can be easily solved if you have a cast iron 'Y' lever as a small piece of gauge plate can be silver soldered onto the top and then filed to shape:

nowieirjwoduj.jpg


but if you have a newer one made from some obscure alloy that's about as hard as bit of cheddar then a different approach is required:

mmflslslsl.jpg


In this one I've still used a piece of steel gauge plate but it has been super-glued on and then a piece of spring steel rod has been glued down the centre to give a bit more strength. Both ways of lengthening the 'Y' lever work equally well and are essential IMO if a thicker blade is fitted - Rob

Hi :D

I would like to do the same modification by silver soldering on a "Y" lever by a old Record (so I presume to be cast iron).
What kind of device it is necessary for? Is a propane Gas alimented flame sufficient? I have a mini solder like this:

http://www.cdu.net/Pictures/28-01.jpg

Ciao,
Giuliano
 
woodbloke":3gxbpevn said:
but if you have a newer one made from some obscure alloy that's about as hard as bit of cheddar

Is it lightweight, light grey, kind of grainy-looking (on the inside)?

I'm thinking of zamak, like a lot of cabinet handles are made out of, perhaps?
 
ac445ab":2q82lmg6 said:
Is a propane Gas alimented flame sufficient?

Should be OK - here's another picture of Rob doing the soldering, which might help

solder.JPG


And the finished 'Y' lever (which was from an old Record plane)

yoke.JPG


Hope this helps.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Quite possibly, its some sort of zinc alloy I think, and used for die-casting a lot, which is why I thought of it.

It's probably nothing of sort, but some of Sheffield's finest cheese made from cows that graze on slag heaps.
 
Much like that, but I'm not sure how much cheese you'll get from that fella.
 
Paul Chapman":25r160pq said:
ac445ab":25r160pq said:
Is a propane Gas alimented flame sufficient?

Should be OK - here's another picture of Rob doing the soldering, which might help

solder.JPG


And the finished 'Y' lever (which was from an old Record plane)

yoke.JPG


Hope this helps.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

Thanks for pics :wink:

Ciao,
Giuliano
 
Personally I find it easier to add two 3mm thick approx 10x10mm slips* to the back of the cap iron. This also retains the sensitivity of adjustment which gets coarser if you lengthen the Y lever. If you're not into metal working, the slips of mild steel can be glued on with industrial superglue, which has lasted some years (and easily re done if needed). I have been using the LN 2" No 9 irons and No 8 irons ground back to 2 3/8", which are both amost 5mm thick. Luverly!

* they drop into the lateral adjuster slot
 
ivan":3a5fnoj6 said:
Personally I find it easier to add two 3mm thick approx 10x10mm slips* to the back of the cap iron. This also retains the sensitivity of adjustment which gets coarser if you lengthen the Y lever. If you're not into metal working, the slips of mild steel can be glued on with industrial superglue, which has lasted some years (and easily re done if needed). I have been using the LN 2" No 9 irons and No 8 irons ground back to 2 3/8", which are both amost 5mm thick. Luverly!

* they drop into the lateral adjuster slot

This I had not heard it! I think is a good idea :wink:
 
ac445ab":2z2698l9 said:
ivan":2z2698l9 said:
Personally I find it easier to add two 3mm thick approx 10x10mm slips* to the back of the cap iron. This also retains the sensitivity of adjustment which gets coarser if you lengthen the Y lever. If you're not into metal working, the slips of mild steel can be glued on with industrial superglue, which has lasted some years (and easily re done if needed). I have been using the LN 2" No 9 irons and No 8 irons ground back to 2 3/8", which are both amost 5mm thick. Luverly!

* they drop into the lateral adjuster slot

This I had not heard it! I think is a good idea :wink:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... man#188593

BugBear
 

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