Quick Question...

[Calpol]

I bought my pal a wee manganese bronze LN 102 and I'm wondering is it still camellia oil used to keep it good?

Thanks all

 

[woodbloke]

If it's bronze then it won't need Camellia Oil as the metal won't rust, but then again with all that wet you get in Scotland... :wink: :roll: - Rob

 

[Calpol]

Aah, well that's easy! I think you're right, it'll probably start to rust as soon as it crosses the border...

Cheers Rob

 

[Digit]

Not if it came from Wales it won't! :lol:

Roy.

 

[frugal]

If it's bronze then it won't need Camellia Oil as the metal won't rust, but then again with all that wet you get in Scotland... :wink: :roll: - Rob

Is Camellia oil for wiping onto tools the same stuff as millions of people in China use a cooking oil, but is sold at perfume prices in little spray bottles in the UK?

 

[newt]

If you really have a rust problem you may like to oil the blade if it is going to be out of use for some time.

 

[Smudger]

It may not be rust, but I've had a problem with a LN Edge Plane, there seems to some oxidation of the bronze and it leaves marks on the wood. When I look at the fence I can't see anything to clean off!
Would Camellia Oil prevent that oxidation?

 

[matthewwh]

Hi Calpol,

I'm dishing out free samples of a new tool wax called ProtecTool at the moment. It's a blend of microcrystalline waxes with active contact corrosion inhibitors made by the same company that do MetalGuard Ultra and Restore rust remover.

I'm not sure if the corrosion inhibitors will keep bronze shiny or not, but it might be worth giving some a go for the lubricating properties alone.

If you (or anyone else for that matter) want to try it, just send me your address via the contact message facility on workshopheaven.com and I'll pop a blob of it in the post to you.

Cheers,

Matthew

 

[bugbear]

If it's bronze then it won't need Camellia Oil as the metal won't rust, but then again with all that wet you get in Scotland... :wink: :roll: - Rob

Is Camellia oil for wiping onto tools the same stuff as millions of people in China use a cooking oil, but is sold at perfume prices in little spray bottles in the UK?

If so, the fact may be of great interest to woodworkers ;-)

I note in passing that cricketers can pay (ahem) remarkable prices for a mystic substance called "cricket bat oil", which is rather similar to the rather cheaper "linseed oil"

BugBear

 

[Jake]

Snake oil, anyone?

 

[bugbear]

If it's bronze then it won't need Camellia Oil as the metal won't rust, but then again with all that wet you get in Scotland... :wink: :roll: - Rob

Is Camellia oil for wiping onto tools the same stuff as millions of people in China use a cooking oil, but is sold at perfume prices in little spray bottles in the UK?

If so, the fact may be of great interest to woodworkers ;-)

I note in passing that cricketers can pay (ahem) remarkable prices for a mystic substance called "cricket bat oil", which is rather similar to the rather cheaper "linseed oil"

BugBear

Hmm. Searchy, searchy:

Woodworkers get it cheap!:

http://www.goldportbeauty.com/camellia_oil.htm

Silkia® camellia oil 2oz (60 ml)
Code: 2SOCO
Price: $15.00

Dieter Schmid has it at 100 ml for Price € 5.50, and mentions...
"It should however never be used as cooking oil!"

I can't find a source of "cooking grade" camellia oil in the UK.

BugBear

 

[Mr Ed]

The bottle of camelia oil I have says it contains liquid paraffin as a stabiliser, which obviously you wouldn't want to cook with. What I don't know is what happens to camelia oil when it hasn't got a stabiliser in and if it would be suitable for treating tools?

Ed

 

[matthewwh]

I had a chat with Paul from Shield Technology this morning and raised the subject of bronze planes. He said he had never tried ProtecTool on bronze but in theory the metal deactivators should work just as well on bronze as they do on iron and steel.

I feel a birthday for my 102 coming on!

Cheers,


Matthew

 

[Philly]

I have the vapourseal VCI pots from Axminster in my tool chests - turns the brass parts of tools green! :shock:
Was a bit of a surprise to say the least :lol:
You don't need to worry about 102 - it will build up a beautiful patina pretty quickly. But rust is not a problem
Cheers
Philly

 

[Calpol]

I'll let him know what you're all saying and leave it in his hands...

Arrived today (from Rutlands, next day delivery without paying for it!) so had a look to check it was alright and have to say it's an amazing little plane. Smaller than I thought it was which isn't a bad thing, just making the point!

I want one now hahaha

 

[matthewwh]

- turns the brass parts of tools green! :shock:

Totally different product with different ingredients, I'll try the ProtecTool out on one of my own planes and let you know if it prevents the oxidisation.

You're right about the patina though Philly - I quite like the way bronze 'weathers in' and have not personally experienced any problems with the oxidisation coming off and marking the timber. Still - it's a horses for courses thing I suppose, some people like patina and some people like their tools bright and shiny.

Cheers,


Matthew

 

[Philly]

Matthew
Bronze does age wonderfully! I've also never had problems with bronze planes leaving marks on the workpiece (mind you, I do use my planes a lot :wink: )
I once shone the screw cap up on the 102 with some brasso - felt a right fool when I realized how much extra work I had made for myself....... :roll:
Cheers
Philly

P.s. You can see how my 102 gets used!

 

[ivan]

Try rapeseed oil, available at the supermarket in gert big bottles for a few pennies, also used industrially for lubrication, including I think on underground trains. Some makes declare 'rapeseed' overtly; but if it doesn't say sunflower oil it's probably the stuff. Mine's a Tesco own brand.

Like camelia oil, it doesn't oxidise to a gummy residue, it's nice to handle, doesn't seem to stain the work, can be used in sharpening as a cutting oil, and in extremis to fry your breakfast, and top up the van's deisel tank (very green).

 

[George_N]

Try rapeseed oil, available at the supermarket in gert big bottles for a few pennies, also used industrially for lubrication, including I think on underground trains. Some makes declare 'rapeseed' overtly; but if it doesn't say sunflower oil it's probably the stuff. Mine's a Tesco own brand.

Like camelia oil, it doesn't oxidise to a gummy residue, it's nice to handle, doesn't seem to stain the work, can be used in sharpening as a cutting oil, and in extremis to fry your breakfast, and top up the van's deisel tank (very green).

I've seen "Canola" oil recommended...the name stands for Canadian oil low acid, which is a variety of rapeseed oil. The low acid part refers to the erucic acid content, an omega-9 fatty acid, though I'm not sure how important that is for rust protection. Here is a Wikipedia link.

 

[Benchwayze]

If it's bronze then it won't need Camellia Oil as the metal won't rust, but then again with all that wet you get in Scotland... :wink: :roll: - Rob

Is Camellia oil for wiping onto tools the same stuff as millions of people in China use a cooking oil, but is sold at perfume prices in little spray bottles in the UK?

If so, the fact may be of great interest to woodworkers ;-)

I note in passing that cricketers can pay (ahem) remarkable prices for a mystic substance called "cricket bat oil", which is rather similar to the rather cheaper "linseed oil"

BugBear

For what it's worth:
I never use boiled linseed oil. For woodwork I use raw linseed oil, bought in quantities as large as I can reasonably store. (By the 5 litre pack usually.)

I don't use it straight away. I put it into one litre GLASS bottles, with metal screw-caps. (Plastic caps seem to split for some reason.) I tighten the caps just enough to stop them coming off. Then I allow the oil to settle for a few weeks before decanting it into a clean bottle. Result? Linseed oil that is clean enough to use with oil paints, (Sold for about £5.00 per 1/4 litre.) This oil is clean enough for oil finishes and certainly good enough for a cricket bat, because it doesn't become sticky after application. It just soaks in, as it should.

If you wish to 'polish' the oil, put a few spoons of fine sand in it, shake it and let it settle, obviously for longer. Just like fining wine! :lol: Except you wouldn't want to drink it eh? :wink:

I just realised, this would probably work with any oil, that tends to become gummy or sticky, because it's impurities in the oil that cause this.
HTH

John