I don't get why you are losing so much height with the guard on - isn't the riving knife higher than the blade? On mine, it has two positions, one level with the top of the blade (for trenching cuts) and one higher up, so the guard doesn't restrict height of cut. If I was trying to cut costs by losing the adjustment, I'd dump the former, and keep a fixed higher position.
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I can move the riving knife up or down.
The instruction manual calls for 3~5 mm clearance.
The first picture is the normal position.
On the second picture I lifted it up so the guard clears the blade but, is it safe to work like that.
niki
The instruction manual calls for 3~5 mm clearance.
The first picture is the normal position.
On the second picture I lifted it up so the guard clears the blade but, is it safe to work like that.
niki
Niki":uh67ogyt said:
Good question, and I'm not sure I can answer it. I guess if the wood is trying to close in on the blade, that will be exaggerated further behind the blade, so during the majority of the cut it ought to be OK. At the start of the cut, you obviously have longer without the protection of the riving knife.
The riving knife on mine slides diagonally up and forwards, so it maintains the distance from the blade pretty well, but that I guess it is a bit more expensive to engineer.
Won't it tilt forward at all?
Not really the riving knife is supposed to sit fairly tightly behind the blade to counter the tendency that stress timber can have to close round the rising teeth and cause a kickback.Niki":2bm9icp4 said:
In any case you always need a bit of blade above the surface of the work, so the true measurement woud most likely be from the bottom of the tip/gullet to the table surface
Or you could always make your own riving knife from sheet steel. That way you'll get what you're looking for. I've been lucky enough to have had several saws which had riving knives with some degree of rilt adjustment - but these were industrial machines. The riving knife needs to be thinner than the kerf (teeth) of the saw, but thicker than the body - so a blade with a 3.2mm kerf on a 2.8mm body would need a 3mm riving knife. The gap between the back of the blade and the riving knife should be 8mm or less and the leading edges should be chamfered for a smooth lead-inNiki":2bm9icp4 said:
Scrit
