Project Number 1 - Garden bench - COMPLETED

[LarryS.]

Ok, so I've bought one of these :

(which I still have to check the set-up on)


and one of these :

So I thought to myself, what is the simplest thing I can make to try them out. Answer is to make new slats for this :

so today I went to Interesting Timber (just outside Bath) and bought four of these :

so the question is, how do I start ? My guess would be :
1. roughly cut the planks to length leaving 5 cms each end spare for now
2. then cut them in half lengthways into slats sort widths
3. plane a wide face
4. then plane a narrow edge referencing the wide face
5. then plane the second narrow edge (again referencing the wide face)
6. then thickness accordingly

am I on the right track ?


Paul

 

[Waka]

Paul

You could do it the way you have suggested, myself I would tackle it this way.

Cut to length as you suggested leaving an overlap.
Thickness the planks to the required thickness
Reference both edges on the jointer
Rip the wood on the bandsaw using the refernce edge ensuring that the cut is slightly over required width.
Reference other edge on the bandsaw until you reach the required edge.

Both methods will get you to the end result, you just need to remember that when you pass it through the bandsaw the edge will require truing.

Hope this helps.

 

[LarryS.]

thanks for the quick response waka. when you say :

Rip the wood on the bandsaw using the refernce edge ensuring that the cut is slightly over required width.
Reference other edge on the bandsaw until you reach the required edge.

won't the bandsaw leave a rough edge ? I thought that I could use the planer for this part to leave a smoother surface (or even the table saw) ?

 

[Shultzy]

Paul, you are on the right track but I would plane the planks before cutting in half. I'm assuming you can plane and thickness the uncut boards

1. roughly cut the planks to length leaving 5 cms each end spare for now.
2. plane a wide face on all boards.
3. plane a narrow edge referencing the wide face on all boards.
4. thickness all boards.
5. cut them in half lengthways into slats widths.
6. plane the narrow edge referencing the wide face on all cut boards.
7. thickness width on all boards.

 

[OPJ]

Normally, with interior furniture, the first thing you will do is to store the timber indoors so that it will dry out and acclimatise before you start machining it. As this is going on a garden bench however, knowing the Interesting Timbers generally sell there timber air-dried (sometimes partially kiln-dried to bring it down just a little bit more), you should be fine to use it as it is.

First thing to do is to have a look at the board for any defects and, yes, cut them over length (50mm each end is very good). If you're intending to rip them on the bandsaw, I'd say you're better off planing a reference face and edge first. On the table saw - which will cut a lot fast, leave a better finish and be more accurate - I don't think it would matter if you rip them all first.

Then, over to the planer to plane a wide face and then use that against the fence to get a reference edge. Once you have both of those, you can look at running them through the thicknesser.

Before you start planing, you'll want to be aware of the grain direction. If you feed and cut against it, you'll get tearout. When you're using the thicknesser for any job, always thickness the widest dimension first so that it's less likely to fall over in the machine. If you were planing to a finish size of 145x20mm say, by thicknessing down to 20mm first the timber would be inclined to fall over as you then feed it through on edge to get 145mm finish.

 

[Waka]

thanks for the quick response waka. when you say :

Rip the wood on the bandsaw using the refernce edge ensuring that the cut is slightly over required width.
Reference other edge on the bandsaw until you reach the required edge.

won't the bandsaw leave a rough edge ? I thought that I could use the planer for this part to leave a smoother surface (or even the table saw) ?

Paul

You are absolutely right I should have put jointer instead of bandsaw.

 

[LarryS.]

Paul, you are on the right track but I would plane the planks before cutting in half. I'm assuming you can plane and thickness the uncut boards

1. roughly cut the planks to length leaving 5 cms each end spare for now.
2. plane a wide face on all boards.
3. plane a narrow edge referencing the wide face on all boards.
4. thickness all boards.
5. cut them in half lengthways into slats widths.
6. plane the narrow edge referencing the wide face on all cut boards.
7. thickness width on all boards.

shultzy, what do you mean when you say : 4. thickness all boards, and then 7. thickness width on all boards ? Do you mean on point 7 that I should feed the slats through on their narrow edge to get the widths the same ?

 

[LarryS.]

olly,

you've confused me a bit, what do you mean by :

When you're using the thicknesser for any job, always thickness the widest dimension first so that it's less likely to fall over in the machine. If you were planing to a finish size of 145x20mm say, by thicknessing down to 20mm first the timber would be inclined to fall over as you then feed it through on edge to get 145mm finish.

 

[OPJ]

Another thing you could do (after cutting over-length) is to skim them through the thicknesser, taking 0.5-1mm off each face, so you can see clearly what grain you have to work with.

One other thing I will say... Looking at the photo' of your planer in position, I would've put the pedals on either end of the machine. You might find they don't get in the way at all, but I'd be wary of tripping over them... :? As long as you know anyway.

When you are surface-planing/jointing, try not to take off any more than 0.5mm in one pass with hardwoods.

If you think this is getting complicated :wink: , then you'd be better off doing any ripping on the table saw for now. Don't know what your experience is with setting up bandsaws, but that's a whole different story. And, I'm guessing it's also fitted with the manufacturer's supplied blade - but, we'll get on to all that another time.

 

[OPJ]

Always thickness the widest dimension first (the width) before finally moving on to the thickness. So, you'd thickness to a finished size of 145mm on edge first, and then, looking at going down to 20mm to get the desired thickness.

 

[LarryS.]

Always thickness the widest dimension first (the width) before finally moving on to the thickness. So, you'd thickness to a finished size of 145mm on edge first, and then, looking at going down to 20mm to get the desired thickness.

understand the bit about thicknessing the wide bit first, but when you say 'down to 20mm to get the desired thickness', do you mean actually put it through sideways on in the thicknesser, or do you mean plane it down to the right width ?

thanks

 

[OLD]

As this is your first use of the p/t get some rough sawn soft wood and practice flattening the wide face (concave down) then square the edge so that you can adjust the m/c for min snipe and dead square, learn about grain therefor feed direction then thickness (one turn of the handle is a good cut say 1 mm) the finish is better off the thicknesser so flip it over to improve the planed first wide face notice how the wood disappears also if you take a small cut you get the size but also feed roller marks so you have to plan that final sizing cut .Get familiar with the m/c before you do the seat slats also note how the planer chips can be pushed into the wood and spoil the finish if you do not have extraction.
Actually its quite easy with practice.

 

[OPJ]

Whatever the final thickness might be, you should always thickness to the finished width on a board first before thinking about going down to your finished thickness.

So, to once you have your reference face and edge from the surfacer/jointer, you switch the machine over and begin thicknessing by placing the reference edge on to the bed. Once you've reached your desired width, you then place the reference face down on the bed and begin planing down to finished thickness.

There is a technique to getting good results with a surfacer/jointer that may take some practice. That's why you may find it easier to cut the slats out 5-10mm oversize first; if you're new to one of these machines, wide boards can be a bit of a struggle. Also, NEVER pass you hands directly over the cutter block. Lift them up, over and clear of the bridge guard.

You haven't mentioned what timber you bought Paul! :wink:

 

[LarryS.]

Whatever the final thickness might be, you should always thickness to the finished width on a board first before thinking about going down to your finished thickness.

So, to once you have your reference face and edge from the surfacer/jointer, you switch the machine over and begin thicknessing by placing the reference edge on to the bed. Once you've reached your desired width, you then place the reference face down on the bed and begin planing down to finished thickness.

There is a technique to getting good results with a surfacer/jointer that may take some practice. That's why you may find it easier to cut the slats out 5-10mm oversize first; if you're new to one of these machines, wide boards can be a bit of a struggle. Also, NEVER pass you hands directly over the cutter block. Lift them up, over and clear of the bridge guard.

You haven't mentioned what timber you bought Paul! :wink:

so what you mean is that the second of the narrow edges is planed by using the thicknesser part of the machine i.e. passed underneath. How is it kept on edge ?

 

[Slim]

Olly, I have found that when passing timber through the thicknesser on edge, it is hit or miss whether you get a square edge.

Paul, I assuming from your post above that you have a tablesaw?

The way I do this is:

Cut to slightly oversize length.
Plane one face taking into account any bowing, cupping and grain direction.
Thickness to required dimension.
Plane one edge to 90 degrees.
Rip to width +1mm referencing planed edge to the fence. (On the tablesaw)
Pass cut edge over the planer to remove 1mm and any saw marks.
Trim to final length.

FEE - Faces, Edges and Ends, in that order.

 

[OPJ]

Ah, yes, I see where you were getting confused now!

When you're using the planer initially, you only need to form one flat face and one straight edge at 90º to the face. That's all!

So, when you do get to the thicknesser, you feed the timber in planed edge-down carefully and the feed rollers should grab the timber from you, pull it through the machine, through the cutter block to the remove material and the outfeed roller will then come in to play and help it out the other side.

That's why we saw you should leave the timber as thick as possible when it comes to thicknessing the width, otherwise it could topple over as the rollers grab it. Hope you get it now. :wink:

 

[LarryS.]

thanks simon & olly, you've cleared things up a lot for me

old, think thats a good idea of having a go with some rough sawn softwood first, especially as I bought no spare wood for the project !

olly, i went for oak, something nice and simple. Will then treat it with something to preserve the look (don't fancy the natural colour change of oak)

 

[Shultzy]

Paul, you are on the right track but I would plane the planks before cutting in half. I'm assuming you can plane and thickness the uncut boards

1. roughly cut the planks to length leaving 5 cms each end spare for now.
2. plane a wide face on all boards.
3. plane a narrow edge referencing the wide face on all boards.
4. thickness all boards.
5. cut them in half lengthways into slats widths.
6. plane the narrow edge referencing the wide face on all cut boards.
7. thickness width on all boards.

shultzy, what do you mean when you say : 4. thickness all boards, and then 7. thickness width on all boards ? Do you mean on point 7 that I should feed the slats through on their narrow edge to get the widths the same ?

That's exactly right. When thicknessing multiple planks don't take off more than 0.5 - 1mm. Each time you reduce the thickness of one plank put all the others through. This guarantees that they will come out the same thickness and you won't strain the thicknesser.

 

[OPJ]

Be aware also that you can only really feed them through one at a time, especially if you're feeding very short lengths (300-400mm) through.

You can however 'stagger' them slightly... After feeding the first board in down one side of the machine, as it comes close to leaving the other end of the machine, you can feed the next piece in on the opposite side of the bed (in terms of width, not length!).

If you try and stick two down the same side too soon then the rollers will only grab one of them and, as it hits the cutter block, the other will be fired back at you (DAMHIKT)! :wink:

Feeding timber evenly across the bed not only reduces uneven wear on the knives but keeps the feed rollers equally 'balanced'.

 

[LarryS.]

thanks olly, tip taken. Now I'll give it a go

cheers paul