Preperation

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Chippygeoff

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I get quite a few PMs from members asking how they go from printing off a pattern and the first cut. I know the more experienced members will have their own favourite way of doing this but this is the way I do it and this is aimed at the newcomer to scrolling.
After I have printed off my pattern I cut round it to within a few millimetres of the line. After choosing a suitable sized piece of wood, as close to the size of the pattern that I can get, I cover the wood with 2 inch wide masking tape. I then use stick glue on the back of the pattern and then place this on the masking tape covered wood. At this stage it is very to position it and I then smooth it out with an old credit card working from the centre outwards. I then cover the entire pattern with 2 inch wide clear packing tape. This will prevent the blade burning the wood and also reduce friction allowing the saw to cut that little bit faster.
At this stage I then drill all the entry holes for the internal cuts. After drilling the holes make sure you sand the back off as there will be bits of wood sticking out from each hole and this can cause the wood to chatter when it’s on the scroll saw table. I then cut the outside of the pattern before I start the internal cuts and the reason for this is that after you have cut the outside you are left with less wood to occupy space on the scroll saw table and there is a good reason I do this. Sometimes the wood is not completely flat, it could have a slight bow in it or maybe a bit warped. If the wood is not flat again you will get chatter or bounce, especially when turning corners.
When the pattern has been cut remove what’s left of the pattern and the masking tape. To do this I roll my thumb over the edge and this lifts the edge of the masking tape allowing me to get hold of it and peel the remainder off. I then put it on the belt sander as there will be fuzzies on the underside and I find the belt sander takes of about 95% of them. I also sand the face side as well to get rid of any residue left by the masking tape. Be careful with any delicate bits, if the pattern is that delicate then remove the fuzzies by hand.
 
Hi Brian. I cut mainly hardwoods 10-20mm thick but over the years have cut most materials. With plywood the thinner it is, such as 3mm, the more careful you have to be and if you were cutting a project in ply that thin I would always start with a new blade. With experience you will tell when it needs to be changed but as an example if your were cutting Christmas ornaments you should be okay with cutting 4 or 5 before changing the blade. Of course, you can stack cut when using ply of 3mm thick. I usually cut 4 at a time. With any wood whether it be hardwood, pine or ply you will still get fuzzies on the underside and I have found pine to be the worst for this and the most difficult to get a decent finish on. You can learn a few things from books but there is nothing like spending some time with an experienced scroller and then it's a matter of practice and yet more practice but it's fun, it's addictive and I just love being on my saw.
 
Hi Evanso82. It's can get a little complicated, first of all it depends on what your cutting and how thick the ply wood is. If the pattern is quite intricate and the ply was 3mm thick I would not go more than 3 or 4 high. If you were using say 6mm thick ply and there were only a few internal custs I would go 4 high again. Ideally all the pieces to be cut will be the same size, stack them on top of each other and bind them with masking tape ensuring all four sides are taped. Then sick the pattern on the top, cover with clear packing tape, drill the entry holes and away you go.
 
Thanks Steve,

What do you do if you are cutting something say 4mm thick and it is quite intricate, how do you stop if from chattering?

Mark
 
It will tend to chatter as you make a turn and the reason it chatters is that the turn is being taken to quickly. This is where a variable speed scroll saw comes into it's own, you can slow it right down for those intricate cuts, if it's that intricate I would tend to stack cut just 2 or 3 at a time. If you come to a point on the pattern I would back the blade up to start on the new line rather than turning the workpiece quickly.
 
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