Power feed on ring fence.

[johnnyb]

I've got some fairly chunky 9ft rad curve to do and i remembered someone suggesting a power feed minus the first and third wheel was perfect for this work. Anyone got any practical hints whose done this? Otherwise I'll do 20 by hand(only 4 ft long though)

 

[HOJ]

i remembered someone suggesting a power feed minus the first and third wheel was perfect

Recently?

@ScottyT would be the most likely that I can think of, could be a game changer for me as well, give it a go and let us know how well it works

 

[johnnyb]

Not recently a few years ago tbh!

 

[johnnyb]

I was hoping someone that may have done it would weigh in with some sage wisdom!

 

[deema]

I have used the powerfeed on a ring fence. I just tilt the powerfeed and place it exactly as I would if I were using the straight fence, ie gap where the cutter is. I don’t remove any wheels. As the Aussies say, all works well with no dramas.

 

[Jacob]

I have used the powerfeed on a ring fence. I just tilt the powerfeed and place it exactly as I would if I were using the straight fence, ie gap where the cutter is. I don’t remove any wheels. As the Aussies say, all works well with no dramas.

Makes sense. If you are machining the inside curve then the outside would bear on two adjacent rollers, if opposite would bear on the two outer rollers. Maybe you'd get a touch more stability if you did remove the inner one?
Done plenty of ring fence curves myself but never with the power feed. Is it necessary?
Ring fence work can be surprisingly easy once you've got the hang of it and changed your underpants!

 

[deema]

Long curves are almost impossible to jig so your hands arn’t close to the cutter. This is where the powerfeed comes in.

 

[Peter Sefton]

No problem doing it on a curved fence made to the matching rad, ring fence bit more tricky trying to hit the sweet spot. I usually tip the power feed and just use the first wheel with it inclined into the curve. If you have to take several passes just nudge the fence back for each set of cuts.

Cheers

Peter

 

[johnnyb]

I'm just trying to picture the curved fence. Is it like a curved planer fence? Ie outfeed offset. Not using a template?

 

[deema]

You just need a disc with a lead in and lead out. Typically a bearing is used. The round disc means that it doesn’t matter where the power feed forces the stuff on to the cutter. It makes setting up the power feed a doddle. A typical ring fence is actually oval to provide an element of lead in and out. At the centre of the ring fence is the point where the minimum distance (sweat spot) to the cutter exists. You have to position the feed rollers of the powerfeed such that the stuff is pulled directly over this sweat spot, if it doesn’t your cut will be not very good / wrong depth.

 

[Jacob]

A basic ring fence can be as simple as this:



I haven't watched the vid so I can't vouch for his technique, but they are safer than you'd imagine once you've got it and hands need not be near the cutters at all, at least with bigger joinery pieces such as he shows.
The "sweet spot" is on the ring, a filed nick, or a felt tip mark, positioned at the point where the ring is closest to the spindle and hence where deepest cut is possible. You guide the piece through as close to the mark as you can manage, having cautiously started it by letting it in from further back around the ring.
Modern ring fences tend to have more protection and guides than shown here.
Deema says oval - could be? they are generally circular but with the inner cut out off-centre to the outer edge

 

[deema]

Yep, great example of how not to feed work into a ring fence…..well if you want to still count to 10. Before using a spindle or indeed a router table buy and read

Spindle Moulder Handbook by Eric Stephenson​

 

[Jacob]

Yep, great example of how not to feed work into a ring fence

I agree, he didn't need it for the job in hand - but curved work with a similar simple set-up can be fine.

…..well if you want to still count to 10. Before using a spindle or indeed a router table buy and read

Spindle Moulder Handbook by Eric Stephenson​

If you get an older edition it may tell you how to use the earlier Whitehill safety blocks, which is handy. Even older and it probably mentions french cutters, which are hazardous, and square block cutters which are lethal and the main reason for the spindle's scary reputation!
PS biggest hazard with a spindle is the wobble saw.
It's easy to use and very effective, and safe, except that because of the large teeth and deep gullets the spinning blade is invisible. Two push sticks the absolute minimum requirement!