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Here is an image of the plastic handles that I did to take out to site nothing special unlike yours, the top one was sawn to octagonal the rest went through the planer.

I made two sets of London pattern in wood that I sold on when I stopped work I have some images of those but cannot locate them at the moment.
Very well-done, IMO!
I have never worked plastic in this manner. I have sawn plastic, but never planed it. Any special precautions?
I may want to give that a try! :)
 
This plastic I used was not a hard plastic (ask for a butchers block plastic) so cuts clean like wood, I cut 3 V's in a 18" x 7" timber screwed on a stop at each end then placed the offcuts into it and fed it through and keep rotating till they were looking good.
I used the same block to cut the octagonal wood for the other chisels, so once you have made up the block you can keep using it and it does save you a lot of planing time.

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This plastic I used was not a hard plastic (ask for a butchers block plastic) so cuts clean like wood, I cut 3 V's in a 18" x 7" timber screwed on a stop at each end then placed the offcuts into it and fed it through and keep rotating till they were looking good.
I used the same block to cut the octagonal wood for the other chisels, so once you have made up the block you can keep using it and it does save you a lot of planing time.

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Thanks Phill, I went out and made one... works well! On the band saw too...
 
SWMBO gift, took a while to put together as I want to allow for seasonal movement without it pulling apart so the rings are held in place with double sided tape, I then drilled a hole for the copper wire of the flower spike to go through into the post, this was superglued in place so effectively only held permanently by that with the tape providing support. The rings, post and base are Oak and the flowers are Silver Birch epicormic growths and copper wire stamens to hold the birds. The base is dished so she can keep jewelry and bits on in
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I like the coffee grounds idea. I had heard of it but forgot all about it. The bowl is lpvely and a really nice finish

This is the forst ply bowl I did. Just 2 bits of 1" ply glued together before I knew about making them from a plank

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This is the second one from a 3' length of ply tongue and grooved floor board. Obviously not quite finished yet, I hope :rolleyes:

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I will post a photo, or two, of the finished bowl.
 
End grain top and pot, mk 2 for client who wanted it for there draughts set. The first pot was too tall, a crack developed in the side and top which I stabilised with ca glue. The client loved it especially the crack which suprised me as I really thought I'd have to make a third.20241229_205354.jpg20241229_205239.jpg20241229_205217.jpg
 
Have tried turning ply a couple of times and can safely say I hate turning it, yours looks good though 😍
Back in the day when laminate was all the rage I used to make gunstocks from ply. Had to be Marine grade as the normal stuff has too many voids etc, which sods law dictates will always appear just where you don't want them. I guess it would be the same for turning.
 
In continuation of my earlier post re: how I process a recently felled section of Alder trunk into a bowl, for those who have never done this before...

Ok, so the roughly turned bowl had been nice and warm in the wood kiln for the last 6 or 7 days; I could have taken it out earlier, but with New Year etc...it could wait. The first 24 hours in the kiln gives a good idea as to the likelihood of cracks developing, so close and frequent checking is called for. Fortunately I caught a couple of incipient cracks, which were quickly checked by a ‘dab’ of CA Glue.The blue staining on the first photo could be the onset of spalting, but I suspect it is just mineral staining.

You will notice that I left my chuck attached to the bowl while still in the kiln. I often do this on freshly turned green wood, as the jaws bite well into the tenon as you need all the help you can get when you come to getting the piece back into ‘round’. Although only a couple of cracks occurred, warping of the piece will occur, no matter what drying technique you use. The second photo shows the distortion of the piece and clearly demonstrates the need to leave enough ‘meat’ on the bowl before you begin the drying process. Leaving the bowl walls too thin could mean having very thins or even not being able to get the piece back into round.

With my Alder bowl I was quickly able to get the outside, lip and inside into ‘round’ and into the shape I wanted. I then finished the bowl with 2 x Sanding Sealer, I x abrasive polish (Yorkshire Grit), 2 x wax finish (Wood Wax 22) and finally 1 x Microcrystalline Wax.

I then removed the bowl from the chuck and reversed it into the Cole Jaws in order to turn off the tenon . With the bowl still mounted on the lathe I thought the piece needed a ‘bit of decoration’,as the Alder piece lacked good grain definition. So I then cut two grooves to create a band over which I cut a ‘textured’ finish with the Sabre Burr. I applied a some PVA glue to the band, then some ‘glitter’.

So there you have it from tree trunk to the finished article. There are a number of pros and cons in turning a piece this, but I think the biggest ‘pro’ is the satisfaction and experience gained. This bowl particular will probably go to the local dog charity.
 

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Back in the day when laminate was all the rage I used to make gunstocks from ply. Had to be Marine grade as the normal stuff has too many voids etc, which sods law dictates will always appear just where you don't want them. I guess it would be the same for turning.
Yup and because the grain direction is alternated in each layer of laminate you don't get ribbons, just splinters and dust which get everywhere.
 

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