Thanks post some pics and remember stay sharp especially with oak
Post a photo of the last thing you turned
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Stigmorgan
Established Member
As @pat from Marck says definitely need a sharp edge for Oak, it's an extremely hard wood when dry but well worth the effort.
Get some pics posted would love to see what you've created so far, where abouts in Hamts are you? I'm just across the border near Farnborough Surrey.
The cherry burl saga
Back at it again this afternoon starting of with the potential lidded pot. Giving a a sand to 240 then inspected the lid. Finding lots of very small cracks I treated them to some ca glue.
once set lavished a good soaking of fixums then set this aside. Then put the bowl back on the lathe for a light sanding inside before applying the finish. Sorry no pic. Once that was completed I set up the vase that broke twice, figuring that the epoxy had had enough time to set. Very very gingerly hollowed out the centre 
this was not quiet centred so returned the outside
resanded this time only to 400 grit then applied the finish
and thats where I called it for the day. Must say I'm liking the shellac.
Back at it again this afternoon starting of with the potential lidded pot. Giving a a sand to 240 then inspected the lid. Finding lots of very small cracks I treated them to some ca glue.
once set lavished a good soaking of fixums then set this aside. Then put the bowl back on the lathe for a light sanding inside before applying the finish. Sorry no pic. Once that was completed I set up the vase that broke twice, figuring that the epoxy had had enough time to set. Very very gingerly hollowed out the centre 
this was not quiet centred so returned the outside
resanded this time only to 400 grit then applied the finish
and thats where I called it for the day. Must say I'm liking the shellac.Katomi woodsmith
Established Member
Hiya, I am in Titchfield. As for the sharp edge, I am still at the rough gouge stage and the oil stone is on the bench and as soon as I feel the edge is” off” it’s stop sharpen and go again the oak is old well seasoned 6ft by 8 inch by 4 inch. I cut off squares then spent ages knocking the corners with a hand saw, getting as close to round as poss before putting on the lathe.
My biggest problem at the moment.... is what do I do with all the shaving from turning the wood.
That and dust control .. the latter .... I am looking at a workshop vac that goes down to 0.5 mic
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Stigmorgan
Established Member
Dust is a huge problem, I have a twin motor camvac for when I'm sanding but it's very loud and sits right next to the lathe, even with that I get a layer of fine dust covering everything by the next day, I plan to add a ceiling mounted air cleaner eventually but at around £200 it's gonna be a while until I can afford it.
Luckily I have a few locals that come get my shavings, one uses them to make her own brickettes for her log burner, she soaks them in barrels with shredded paper untill it all turns to pulp then uses a hydraulic press to squeeze them into bricks then leaves them to dry.
Titchfield is only an hour away from me, I have plenty of wood if you want some practice material.
Jester129
Established Member
Stigmorgan
Established Member
Second go at turning, had 20 mins before cooking dinner so grabbed a piece of wood from the firewood store and checked it on the lathe. Very simple bit of turning practice to make a mini mallet. just used a spindle gouge and discovered that sharpening before starting would have been good.
After a bit of struggling it was over to the grinder for a minute and then everything was much easier. Gave it a quick sand and some paste wax and reached for the parting tool which I’ve not used before.
Managed to overheat it in seconds which was a bit of a surprise as none of the other tools I’ve used have done that. Stopped the lathe and cut the ends off instead.
After a bit of struggling it was over to the grinder for a minute and then everything was much easier. Gave it a quick sand and some paste wax and reached for the parting tool which I’ve not used before.
Managed to overheat it in seconds which was a bit of a surprise as none of the other tools I’ve used have done that. Stopped the lathe and cut the ends off instead.
Cherry burl saga
One step forward two steps back so the saying goes. Looking at the bowl plate and possible lidded bowl in the mornig light, I notice some of the small cracks had not fill with the ca glue and shella finish, so got the last of the epoxy glue and a small spatula and re-glued the wee shits then did the same to the vase that I'd left on the lathe.
now they are sat in the garage curing till I get back to them for another re-sand and finish. Next up I went for the small pre turned ball shape put on a tenon then ended up with this
thought that a lid would look good on this so came up with this from a piece of the small off cuts. The handle is off center due to making the tenon hole in rotten wood.
still in development so not sure whether or not I like it. Set this aside to let the glue set for the handle and picked up the odd shaped bowl that I'd previously partially turned and set a tenon on. I've developed a habit of standing to one side when starting up somthing new in the lathe and watch. Today that paid of as I had my first tenon fail. Took some wood of the bottom and made anew tenon in strong wood 
the failure and the new tenon in the chuck
then on with the hollowing 
so thats where I am at the moment. Will be going out for a shopping excursion for some epoxy as that bowls got as far as I want to push it, as it, has a large bark inclusion crack that needs gluing up before continuing.
One step forward two steps back so the saying goes. Looking at the bowl plate and possible lidded bowl in the mornig light, I notice some of the small cracks had not fill with the ca glue and shella finish, so got the last of the epoxy glue and a small spatula and re-glued the wee shits then did the same to the vase that I'd left on the lathe.
now they are sat in the garage curing till I get back to them for another re-sand and finish. Next up I went for the small pre turned ball shape put on a tenon then ended up with this
thought that a lid would look good on this so came up with this from a piece of the small off cuts. The handle is off center due to making the tenon hole in rotten wood.
the failure and the new tenon in the chuck
then on with the hollowing 
so thats where I am at the moment. Will be going out for a shopping excursion for some epoxy as that bowls got as far as I want to push it, as it, has a large bark inclusion crack that needs gluing up before continuing.
Stigmorgan
Established Member
The tip of the parting tool has a lot less material than the tip of a gouge so can heat up quicker, try a slower speed and don't forget to widen the cut, plunging the tip straight in produces a lot of friction, especially with your style of parting tool (flat sides) a diamond parting tool (cutting edge is wider than the top and bottom spine has less metal in contact with the wood so generates less friction and heat.
Ah that makes sense, thanks. The lathe is running on its slowest pulley setup though I have just discovered how to get the reduction gearbox working so I can, in future, drop it down another speed. I’ll look for a diamond parting tool or see if I can re-profile one of the old tools into something similar.
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Just plunge in 5mm or so then widen the cut about 1/4 the thickness of the parting tool on the waste sideand keep repeating until it parts off.
Owd Jockey
Established Member
Hi Katomi, what not sign up (its free) to your local Freecycle Group? I have a guy who keeps Chickens and Ducks who comes around when I have filled 3 or 4 bags to collect. People with chickens generally have to pay for wood shavings for bedding so your free offer would be welcome.
Thanks I’ll give that a try
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