Yojevol
Clocking on
That's an unfortunate username for somebody with 35 years experience. Do you regularly cause things to blow up?
Post a photo of the last thing you made
- Thread starter DTR
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Adam W.
A Major Clanger
Thanks Garno, It has taken just over two weeks to make. I've got two more in the pipe one for the National Trust and one for me.
All have different designs. The one on the bottom is mine and I think it might have something to do with harvests or something like that.
You are a very skilled man
Beautiful work
Blackswanwood
Still Learning
Sycamore and Birds Eye Maple jewellery box. Inlay and escutcheon are Snakewood. Smarthinges and Smartlock.
I’d forgotten how attractive sycamore is.
Pig suede lining colour wasn’t my choice - I’d have preferred something darker.
I’d forgotten how attractive sycamore is.
Pig suede lining colour wasn’t my choice - I’d have preferred something darker.
Very nice, what finish did you use?
Blackswanwood
Still Learning
Thanks - I used Clear Honey Peacock Oil (made by Skelton Saws - apparently no peacocks are harmed in the process!) and then Alfie Shine Hardwax (Workshop Heaven).
Stigmorgan
Established Member
How do they extract oil from a peacock?
The traditional way was to feed them up on shepherd's pie first to fatten them up. However as shepherds are in short supply, peak production has passed.
Doug B
Shy Tot
Very carefully
Boning knife, AEB-L steel (translate that just to a fine grained stainless that doesn't have to temper soft), cocobolo handle.
Still finishing the blade (cutting away the glue squeeze out at the front of the handles, etc, cleaning the blade and putting a final hand stoned finish on the steel. After care profiling the handle to avoid getting cut, I managed after this to fillet a pea sized chunk into a loose flap on my index finger using a finger stone to clean up the blade. This morning, I thought "thank goodness I don't use tablesaws much".
For years, I've had offcuts from blanks- in this case, older cocobolo and cocobolo is far nicer to use once it's had a decade or two to age - the oil oxidizes or something and becomes more dry so that it doesn't gum up belts or refuse gluing. More than once I've considered burning all of these small bits of wood - but they're coming in handy for knife scales.
the point of making one is partially experimenting, you can see the actual bevel of the knife. I think a lot of commercial knives are thin but aren't thinned that well toward the bevel and a truer flatter grind almost all the way to the edge would be better. This knife gets through things really easy.
Some guy I know triggered learning more about boning knives (I'm not a chef) by complaining to me often that they should be "surgical tools" and he has to sharpen a victorinox or something similar twice to do each deer that he hunts. After a lot of complaining, I said "just send me a picture with a ruler next to the knife and we'll see if we can come up with better ones". This is the third one I've made - he will make his own handles, and to make one of these with heat treatment and grinding all freehand and by eye still doesn't take long. Maybe an hour total. the handle should be quick, but I am working out ways to make and finish the handles, so it's taking more like an hour to get the handle made.
it is blistering sharp - the only question now will be whether the taper is so thin at the edge that it gets damage on a deer. And since I don't hunt, that'll have to be the guy who got two of the other ones.
Still finishing the blade (cutting away the glue squeeze out at the front of the handles, etc, cleaning the blade and putting a final hand stoned finish on the steel. After care profiling the handle to avoid getting cut, I managed after this to fillet a pea sized chunk into a loose flap on my index finger using a finger stone to clean up the blade. This morning, I thought "thank goodness I don't use tablesaws much".
For years, I've had offcuts from blanks- in this case, older cocobolo and cocobolo is far nicer to use once it's had a decade or two to age - the oil oxidizes or something and becomes more dry so that it doesn't gum up belts or refuse gluing. More than once I've considered burning all of these small bits of wood - but they're coming in handy for knife scales.
the point of making one is partially experimenting, you can see the actual bevel of the knife. I think a lot of commercial knives are thin but aren't thinned that well toward the bevel and a truer flatter grind almost all the way to the edge would be better. This knife gets through things really easy.
Some guy I know triggered learning more about boning knives (I'm not a chef) by complaining to me often that they should be "surgical tools" and he has to sharpen a victorinox or something similar twice to do each deer that he hunts. After a lot of complaining, I said "just send me a picture with a ruler next to the knife and we'll see if we can come up with better ones". This is the third one I've made - he will make his own handles, and to make one of these with heat treatment and grinding all freehand and by eye still doesn't take long. Maybe an hour total. the handle should be quick, but I am working out ways to make and finish the handles, so it's taking more like an hour to get the handle made.
it is blistering sharp - the only question now will be whether the taper is so thin at the edge that it gets damage on a deer. And since I don't hunt, that'll have to be the guy who got two of the other ones.
Love the box. What glue do you use for the leather? PVA? Glued it before or after the the box has been glued? Where id you buy the harware from?
Thanks for all the answers I may or may not get
Blackswanwood
Still Learning
Thanks @Fanous and sorry for not replying more promptly.
I use Copydex for the lining. There is a really useful thread on here from Custard (another member) on the method for lining boxes.
Thread 'How to Line Boxes & Drawers'
How to Line Boxes & Drawers
The hardware is from Andrew Crawford - https://www.smartboxmaker.com/
I use Copydex for the lining. There is a really useful thread on here from Custard (another member) on the method for lining boxes.
Thread 'How to Line Boxes & Drawers'
How to Line Boxes & Drawers
The hardware is from Andrew Crawford - https://www.smartboxmaker.com/
Blackswanwood
Still Learning
Copied this from a post by @Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) but not executed to his standard 
It’s made from a piece of American Black Walnut that I had knocking around and some Ash that was in the gash pile!
It’s made from a piece of American Black Walnut that I had knocking around and some Ash that was in the gash pile!
Many thanks for the tips. Finished reading the Custard's manual, and it seems very clear now, how to go about it. The only thing I'm still unsure, what card is he suggesting to use? Is it some kind of paper? Thin plastic?
Thanks
Blackswanwood
Still Learning
Sgian Dubh
Established Member
More a case of make a repair than make something new. About ten years ago I made an oak picnic table out of offcuts left over from sculptural pieces made for an arboretum. The sculptures came out of what were basically green oak sleepers that were rough sawn at the mill to anything from about 6" X 6" and up to maybe 8" X 8". Getting enough material for the design was a bit tight and some of the bits were borderline, specifically there were some inconveniently placed shakes, knots, and sapwood. I just went ahead anyway and used what was there rather than spend extra money on replacement wood. Anyway, one of the table top slats contained a fair chunk of sapwood and, as is to be expected, rot set in and the sappy edge crumbled off. So a repair was called for.
Below is the table when it was new.
Below shows the repair from the underside along with the rotted slat. I cut out the old slat with a multitool using a couple of crosscuts. Then I machined up a bit of replacement oak, and cut a tenon at either end. At the top of the picture below can be seen how I got the tenon in at that end by routing out a stopped rebate to the depth of the outer cheek of the mortice in the thicker outer frame, plus a piece of replacement wood to make up the thickness of the frame. Waterproof PVA was slapped around, the slat slipped into the mortice at the bottom of the picture and the far end dropped into place and the infill replacement piece of wood clamped and screwed in.
And from above the new slat looks completely out of place with the old slats, see below. This non-match colour wise of old and new doesn't bother me because in a year or so all the parts will probably just about blend together. As a side note, apart from brushing on a bit of linseed oil when the table was new just to make it a bit prettier for a portfolio photograph at top it has never received any other finish (paint, varnish, oil) since. It had its first ever clean, i.e., scrubbing off dirt, mildew, algae, or whatever with a wire brush and plenty of water earlier this year, and the table sits out unprotected in all conditions all year. I'm one of those that prefers, I suppose, in careless or benign neglect of outdoor pieces of furniture, i.e., very rare maintenance, no varnish, no paint, etc, but I do pick a decently durable wood species to build with. So, not a very exciting or difficult project, maybe three hours work, but just a wee task I felt I ought to do before the broken rotted slat irritated me too much, ha, ha. Slainte.
Below is the table when it was new.
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Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
You've managed to blend in the repair really really well there @Sgian Dubh, nobody will notice it
Sgian Dubh
Established Member
To be honest Droogs, I don't give a rat's *** if somebody does notice. Personally, I agree with you, the blending of new with the older is immaculate. Slainte.You've managed to blend in the repair really really well there @Sgian Dubh, nobody will notice it
