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custard":39a08mq0 said:
marcros":39a08mq0 said:
[Off topic, but how is the bottom joined on a picture frame with a larger bottom frame?

Excellent question!

With a mitre that's not at 45 degrees.
I have some picture frames on my to do list so I have been thinking about this and I don't understand it. I could cut the mitre just as (in)accurately at any angle but if the bottom rail is wider it cannot be the same contour as the sides, so how does the bottom align with the sides at 45 degrees or any other angle?
 
Don't think I've posted this here before.

Customer commission, mono-graphed cutting board out of English ash, routered edge channel and hand carved initials.
The lettering and knot are filled with tinted epoxy and finished with 3 coats of Osmo Polyx.
The underside has 4 rubber feet.

The customer sent me the last photo of it in use, turned out rather nice i think..

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made myself a coaster from some scraps of beech, it uses half lap joinery, hoping to make a set, this was just the prototype.
 

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El Barto":1jwijdal said:
Very nice! I can also see something like being good for making a few quid on Etsy and what have you.

thanks, funny you should say that because that's what I was planning, just need to get a batch of them out asap.
 
Image of a colt 45 in white, grey and black corian and a Mozambique timber from stiles and bates .
 

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Just4Fun":7pcs4qzi said:
custard":7pcs4qzi said:
marcros":7pcs4qzi said:
[Off topic, but how is the bottom joined on a picture frame with a larger bottom frame?

Excellent question!

With a mitre that's not at 45 degrees.
I have some picture frames on my to do list so I have been thinking about this and I don't understand it. I could cut the mitre just as (in)accurately at any angle but if the bottom rail is wider it cannot be the same contour as the sides, so how does the bottom align with the sides at 45 degrees or any other angle?
A fairly standard ‘cheat’ is to increase the bottom edge of the mount by a centimetre or so. This means that the frame stays as bog standard mitres but you get the visual impression from the wider mount.
 
An all but finished chair. It'll receive a couple of coats of Osmo and some more tidying up on the arm/back. For instance, you can see where the second spindle joins the arm that there's been some nasty spelching/tearout. This was a combination of a difficult drilling angle, too much haste and general inexperience, although in some cases it just happened. Ideally I'd spokeshave thing like this away but I also run the risk of making the arm too thin.

I was pretty much making this up as I went along; the other 3 should be much easier and quicker now I've figured out the process.

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And a lil bench shot...

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You'll just soften up the front edge of the seat, won't you? My hamstrings feel itchy just looking at that!! :) Nice to see a proper chair being made in a traditional manner. Good on you for taking on the challenge.
 
off topic but do you not find the holdfasts ever get in the way? I ask because I've now got some now but am worried about putting an irreversible hole in the legs, if they get in the way of my real legs when planing e.t.c

really nice chair! looks classy =D>
 
That’s a good question, I actually never considered it at the time which I suppose is a good thing because they’ve yet to get in the way. Although I bet tomorrow I bash my knee into one now I’ve said that.
 
I’m stuck in the house with a broken arm at the moment so had to make a Valentines present. Came up with this idea whilst admiring planing shavings the other day and think it came out pretty well.
Two tone flower with alternating pine and sapele petals.
 

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Half an hour with a plane, a twig, and a glue gun and you're good to go! It was surprisingly easy but I think it's quite effective as a hand-made token.
 

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