Post a photo of the last thing you made

[custard]

Blank wall in the kitchen needed some 'wall art'. Just need to figure out how to hang them. Sawtooth hangers maybe?

Stick is 25'' long.

Oh yeah, and it's all pallet wood, sorry.

That is absolutely superb. Brilliantly conceived, brilliantly executed, and very very commercial; I'd bet a pound to a penny you could sell those all day long.

=D>

 

[Bob Graham]

Fab (I liked that) Nice job. Hang with French Cleat maybe.

 

[marcros]

I would go with either a keyhole router bit, or the button fix system.

 

[NazNomad]

Ooh, hadn't seen those button fix thingys before, I like those.

I was thinking a sawtooth hanger to give me a little adjustment, as the pieces won't want to hang vertically (except the stick)

 

[Bob Graham]

Memsahib wanted a new door stop. This started as an old piece of oak (I think) 4 x 4 inch fence post. It's about 9.5 inches tall including the amber glass ball. Camera angle makes it look a bit wonky.

 

[Bm101]

Blank wall in the kitchen needed some 'wall art'. Just need to figure out how to hang them. Sawtooth hangers maybe?

Stick is 25'' long.

Oh yeah, and it's all pallet wood, sorry.

Tell you what Naz, you have a great eye for design and execution mate. Well impressed with those especially the last one. Reminds me (a bit weirdly?) of the very hungry caterpillar. All that nostalgia in one go. Fantastic.
As Custard says, I'll expect to see these shortly in some Brighton Gallery for daft money next time I go to visit my mate down there. You have an unusual talent for picking out a creative idea and producing a result. I might have thought of the first one (I wouldn't) But I never would have thought of doing a triptych. (word of the day) especially the finished lolly stick. Genius. Fair play to you. Clever Bunny.

 

[thetyreman]

I've almost finished a mahogany microphone box, for an expensive microphone I own, I am just thinking about how to finish it off, the interior needs to be able to stop the mic from being able to move around, I was originally going to go with felt but it may need some kind of soft lining under fabric, any advice would be appreciated,

the joinery and finishing is complete, there's a few mistakes though, but I learnt from them all, not 100% happy with it, but I have enough mahogany left to make another box the same size, or a bit bigger.

 

[ColeyS1]

Blank wall in the kitchen needed some 'wall art'. Just need to figure out how to hang them. Sawtooth hangers maybe?

Stick is 25'' long.

Oh yeah, and it's all pallet wood, sorry.

A quick word to say I do like/enjoy all the arty stuff you make !

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[NazNomad]

As much as I 'd like to, I can't take credit for the idea. I saw a picture of it 'somewhere'. Probably Pinterest or Etsy.

 

[custard]

the interior needs to be able to stop the mic from being able to move around, I was originally going to go with felt but it may need some kind of soft lining under fabric, any advice would be appreciated

I did a WIP a few months ago showing how to line a box with suede. Suede is adequate for jewellery boxes. For a microphone I'd make a couple of "bridge" components, bearers that run from front to back and are shaped precisely with curved cut outs to receive the microphone. The trick then is to use the suede from the neck and armpit areas of the pig skin, suede from these areas is very elastic and can be shaped to conform to compound curves. You'll work this inside the cut outs, folding it 6mm down onto the flats. You'll then cover the flats with suede (it will actually be suede stuck with double sided tape to card) to within 3mm of the cut outs, the card is stuck on with Copydex. Read the WIP and it'll all be clear, it's a bit fiddly but it's not particularly difficult, and it makes the job look really professional.

 

[thetyreman]

the interior needs to be able to stop the mic from being able to move around, I was originally going to go with felt but it may need some kind of soft lining under fabric, any advice would be appreciated

I did a WIP a few months ago showing how to line a box with suede. Suede is adequate for jewellery boxes. For a microphone I'd make a couple of "bridge" components, bearers that run from front to back and are shaped precisely with curved cut outs to receive the microphone. The trick then is to use the suede from the neck and armpit areas of the pig skin, suede from these areas is very elastic and can be shaped to conform to compound curves. You'll work this inside the cut outs, folding it 6mm down onto the flats. You'll then cover the flats with suede (it will actually be suede stuck with double sided tape to card) to within 3mm of the cut outs, the card is stuck on with Copydex. Read the WIP and it'll all be clear, it's a bit fiddly but it's not particularly difficult, and it makes the job look really professional.

I do remember that thread, going to have to give it a try once I've made something to hold the mic properly, I've got a few ideas.

 

[SteveF]

that is a stunning box
could you bore a hole in a square section and resaw ?

Steve

 

[kirso]

this is the last and first thing I have ever made using a wood lathe.
I still have to sort out the bottom, but for my first attempt I am more than happy. It didn't smash to bits or fall apart
It is only about 4 ins high. But its the first go on a wood lathe and using the tools that came with it.

 

[Bob Graham]

Nice job kirso, great feeling isn't it. I'm new to turning too.

 

[Fitzroy]

Having finally finished the floor, started on some workbenches for the walls, I can then move out the old shed! £20 of 89x38 cls timber from b&q (had to pick through half the pile to find 5 straight ones), £5 of coachbolts from Toolstation (so cheap compared to other shops) and spare 18mm Osb for the top, so £25 all in which is nice.

Used half laps on all the joints and chuffed with how tight all the joints finished up. Used the table saw with a cross cut sled, and finished off with a shoulder plane to get them flat. Much better than my last attempt at half laps on the bandsaw.

F.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Funny how joints often turn our perfectly when they're on something that really doesn't matter much. :lol:

 

[thetyreman]

here are some better daylight shots of the box, showing you the true colours, I've now made a couple of rests for the mic, it fits nicely.

 

[El Barto]

here are some better daylight shots of the box, showing you the true colours, I've now made a couple of rests for the mic, it fits nicely.

That is ruddy brilliant.

 

[custard]

That's a smashing job Tyreman, hingeing is never easy but it looks like you've got it well sorted.

There are a few ways you might take it up to an even higher level.

-It looks like the screws aren't fully below the countersinks in the hinge. That's unfortunately very common, it's not your fault it's the fault of the hardware. The best solution is to deepen the countersinks, a good quality countersink bit will work on the soft brass you generally find on hinges.

-Fit the hinge with steel screws to cut the thread into the timber, then replace them with brass screws. This keeps the slot in your brass screws nice and clean.

-Lay some fine wet and dry (say about 600 grit) on your bench and polish up the screw heads. While you're at it ease any sharp arises on the ends of the hinge knuckles.

-Aim to have the right relationship between the hinge leaf and the thickness of the timber into which it's morticed. The timber should be at least 3mm thicker, (any less and it's at risk of splitting out), or it should be the identical thickness so that the hinge leaf is totally flush.

 

[segovia]

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