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240mm chef knife in 52100, handle of boxwood and African Blackwood with a friction fit curly maple saya
 

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Both pits now finished, sand should be delivered Monday, just hope they come at a time I can take them round through the playgrounds, will take forever if I have to barrow it round.
 
I’ve been back at my lads of late the builders left an awkward gap at the end of the bath 380mm wide, as with most modern houses storage is in short supply so it was decided on a full height cabinet to maximise this space.
After cutting panels to size & edge banding I figured it would be as easy to assemble the cabinet on site so I set up a couple of trestles in their kitchen & did the dominoing & drilling in there.

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All the parts were then taken up into the bathroom & screwed together with confirmat screws,I figured this would be the easiest way to assemble the cabinet in such a confined space especially as it had to be built upright.

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As the side of the unit faced into the bath & even though it the opposite end to the shower I thought it best to tile it, first lining it with Hardiebacker board.

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Grouted & sealed

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With push to open catches.

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Don’t you just hate it when you get those little cuts from big tiles? Drives me nuts.
 
I’ve got to ask the obvious question. Why does an outside light need a canopy? Or is for aesthetics.
Precaution against water ingress, plus the aesthetics, and as mentioned it's just a test piece to determine durability. I'm curious about how well the fencing offcuts weather, curl, twist etc. The roof and back board are 3 pieces dowelled and glued, sides are two pieces.

LAP Outdoor LED Floodlight
 
I’ve got to ask the obvious question. Why does an outside light need a canopy? Or is for aesthetics.
I had to do a similar thing with some outside lights installed at school, the neighbours complained the lights were too bright in the evening so I made some covers that directed the light downwards
 
I have just completed my first attempt on “traditional” woodworking: a small medicine cabinet. As a beginner hobbyist woodworker, It was a fun (sometimes frustrating) learning journey.

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Edit: added one more picture of the door frame detail. I dare not show the dovetails close-up as I butchered most of them.
 
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Yes looks to be nicely made, I’m surprised you didn’t do some nice lap dovetails on the drawer front though, you are obviously well capable and the (not sure what it’s called) joint you did isn’t the strongest for a drawer.
Ian
 
Yes looks to be nicely made, I’m surprised you didn’t do some nice lap dovetails on the drawer front though, you are obviously well capable and the (not sure what it’s called) joint you did isn’t the strongest for a drawer.
Ian
Thanks Ian. The lap dovetail is on my list to try on the next project.

This joint is called half blind tongue and rabbet or locking rabbet (I am sure there are some other names).
More info here and here
 
Yesterday and this morning I made (just using hand tools as usual) my fifth one of these leaf tea caddies:

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It's made of American black walnut with mitred (at the bottom) dovetails and the same simple hinge I've used on all the other ones. I've now made three with "TEA" carved into the top (all American black walnut), one with "KEEMUN" carved into the top (made of cherry) and one with "EARL GREY" carved into the top (ABW again). The Earl Grey one (of which I can't find any photos at the mo) was a present for my parents, the Keemun one is (predictably enough) for Keemun, which is what I mostly drink (weak and black). The bigger one of the existing "TEA" ones holds English breakfast tea, the smaller one has different things in depending on what we trying at the time (currently Darjeeling). The new one will also hold Keemun tea but is for me to take into work.

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With that done, I had a fun little session using my little home-made block plane to make a load of shavings out of maple, walnut and cherry so that I could take an arty photo of it, which I'm going to get printed on a mug as it'll be a bit more interesting than the one I have at work at the mo:

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That’s very nicely done, particularly like the cut out bit for the handle which also stops it racking I suppose. Is it Cherry?
Ian
Thanks Ian, the cut out bit was to centralise the handle as the two halves were of equal depth - I didn't know if it was really necessary or not . . . .

It's American Black Walnut - the photos look a lot lighter than the reality.

Cheers, Kev.
 
Hello folks! Just finished 6 doors, 2 of which are partially glazed.

I have a wee question if i may - the 2 doors in the pictures won't close because the frames are wonky (doors are definitely rectangles!).

Should i tailor the doors or adjust the frames (fettling the doors feels like cheating, i think i should adjust the existing frame!)?

Many thanks!
 

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