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That looks great, tyreman, but that sticky-outie thing right where your right hip is when planing.......isn't that going to get in the way? I certainly couldn't have something like that on my bench. Wouldn't some sort of finger-pull be better?
 
MikeG.":2od7m3fh said:
That looks great, tyreman, but that sticky-outie thing right where your right hip is when planing.......isn't that going to get in the way? I certainly couldn't have something like that on my bench. Wouldn't some sort of finger-pull be better?

my vice isn't flush with the apron sides, so it's not a problem, I had a finger pull hole and just didn't like it, so far it's not been a problem.
 
Latest Client job installed this weekend.

Eaves wardrobes on the top floor of a three story new build home.
Internals/carcassing is all Oak veneered MDF finished with Osmo 3032.

Doors and trim MRMDF sprayed with Morrell's WB lacquer in F&B "Dimpse"

Hinges are all Blum S/C, handles from Ironmongery Direct.

I'm pleased with how this came out and looking forward to doing some more of these.

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Thank you Samhay.

No mate, it wouldn't have worked properly so the Client and I decided just to leave it fixed (non-opening).

They still have access through the other door but as they don't plan on putting anything up there that they will need regular access to anyway they weren't bothered.
 
Having spent months as a newbie learnign to do the basics from scratch, I have finally done something that I feel I can show without too much embarassment and, more importantly, my wife will let in the house.
It's a replacement bed for my son's room (he only visits these days). Beech frame and boards; walnut inlay for the mountains and mahogany sun. He's a mountaineer, hence the theme.

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Deadeye":2i1xeiiu said:
.... replacement bed for my son's room .... Beech frame and boards... ]

That looks good, I've been looking at making a couple of full size single beds for my two sons - they may only be 5 and 2 now, but I'd want them to last until they're adults - what size timber did you use for the frame rails? It'd be useful to know what's worked for your bed.
 
jnw010":2ehp1v2r said:
That looks good, I've been looking at making a couple of full size single beds for my two sons - they may only be 5 and 2 now, but I'd want them to last until they're adults - what size timber did you use for the frame rails? It'd be useful to know what's worked for your bed.

The side rails are 44mm thick by 140mm deep; the head and tail boards are 22mm thick. The posts are 64mm square.
 
I have been working on this bench on and off for sometime, its been started and stopped, stored and finally I am calling it finished, although I will flatten the top in six months or so. I followed Richard Maguire's English Workbench series although knowing I was going to paint the base black from the off I skipped the dovetail half laps for just plain Jane regular half laps for the trestle joinery.

The face vice again follows Richard Maguire's series and I chose it as the bench is quite compact at somewhere between 1400-1500mm and I liked that it could straddle the leg. Surprisingly the vice works great, especially now I have lined the jaw with rubberised cork.

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that's a really nice job =D> , love the look of that vice, may I ask, where did you get that rubberised cork? I ask because I plan on lining my vice jaws with some and have recently re-flattened the jaws and could do with something similar.
 
Ben I just get arty type sticky back stuff. Doesn't last too great but its cheap and easy to replace.
Derek Cohen mentioned Crubber in his moxxon thread recently. Looks the biz. No idea on cost.
 
thetyreman":3fkg6u7c said:
that's a really nice job =D> , love the look of that vice, may I ask, where did you get that rubberised cork? I ask because I plan on lining my vice jaws with some and have recently re-flattened the jaws and could do with something similar.

Try googling "rubber bonded cork sheet" and comes up with something like this...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/263834358866?c ... gIUfPD_BwE

I also have the self adhesive cheap cork stuff to line my vice jaws, but as BM101 says they dont last, so I'll probably do the same and get something like the link above
 
Genuine question here..........what benefit do you get from cork (or similar) liners to your vice jaws? I've used a lump of wood since I began woodworking, and not ever run into an issue that had me thinking "I need something softer".
 
I have thick leather on mine Mike, it may be psychological but I think it gives better grip. On the other hand I may have wasted some leather. :?
 
thetyreman":3q2mbiva said:
that's a really nice job =D> , love the look of that vice, may I ask, where did you get that rubberised cork? I ask because I plan on lining my vice jaws with some and have recently re-flattened the jaws and could do with something similar.


Thanks for the compliment.

I got it from the Mantek Direct ebay store and it cost around fifteen quid for 1000 x 500mm, other size options available. David Barron recommended them several months ago.

MikeG.":3q2mbiva said:
Genuine question here..........what benefit do you get from cork (or similar) liners to your vice jaws? I've used a lump of wood since I began woodworking, and not ever run into an issue that had me thinking "I need something softer".

For me it was a mixture of wanting to aid grip and give some sort of protection. Grip wise it seems to hold better with the cork rubber but whether it will add some protection is anyones guess. For the relatively cheap price if it fails I will just pull it off and go wood to wood.
 
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I made these two boxes to hold garden twine as a present at the weekend. They are made out of some beech worktop I was given from Freecycle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Surfboard wall rack, oak with some varnish, padded with a bit of yoga mat (I couldn't find another use for it). The boy's contribution will be to move his poster a bit to the right.
 

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