Post a photo of the last thing you made

[thetyreman]

Double through tenons?
I never really thought you'd use lag bolts into end grain like I probably would have.

yes through tenons with diagonal wedges (just for fun)

I also had to add a screw through the sides into the stair edge where it meets the sides as it was coming apart in the outdoor weather, used coach screws underneath, it was the best solution in my opinion because 1. it's concrete and 2. it's adjustable, surprised by how solid it feels once set up correctly.

 

[El Barto]

Looks great! The bolts are a smart idea.

 

[thetyreman]

Looks great! The bolts are a smart idea.

I nicked it from samurai carpenter

 

[J-G]

A few weeks ago I saw a piece of Swedish Glass on the Antiques Road Show which really took my eye so I decided to make something similar but in wood.

The original of course didn't have a 'lid' but I am known for my love of 'hidden' catches so a closed 'box' made absolute sense to me. The lid is released by squeezing the eyes.

The main structure is 100mm cube made from Walnut, Pink Ivory and Ebony.

This is the first of this year's Christmas presents I'm now in the process of making another three at 75mm cube using African Padauk with Ebony/Maple beaks and Walnut wings

 

[John Brown]

already posted this before but it's now finished with 4 layers of Le Tonkinois Marine no1 Varnish. Very Happy with how it's turned out considering!

Finished Outdoor Steps 1 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

Finished Outdoor Steps 2 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

Finished Outdoor Steps 3 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

Finished Outdoor Steps 4 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

Finished Outdoor Steps 5 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

Finished Outdoor Steps 6 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

Is it OK to have that much of the tread projecting unsupported?
This is a genuine question, I "rebuilt"(more like remade from scratch) a wooden umpire's chair for my tennis club a month ago, and I was concerned about the overhang at the front of the treads.

 

[SMALMALEKI]

Another small project completed. I built myself a plane cabinet. Joined with dovetail joints. Back board is pine, shelves are made out of pine. The groves for the shelves have a fine sloop backward. Finished with boiled linseed oil. Hung from wall with cleats.

 

[Bm101]

That's showbizz.

 

[thetyreman]

already posted this before but it's now finished with 4 layers of Le Tonkinois Marine no1 Varnish. Very Happy with how it's turned out considering!

Finished Outdoor Steps 1 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

Finished Outdoor Steps 2 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

Finished Outdoor Steps 3 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

Finished Outdoor Steps 4 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

Finished Outdoor Steps 5 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

Finished Outdoor Steps 6 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

Is it OK to have that much of the tread projecting unsupported?
This is a genuine question, I "rebuilt"(more like remade from scratch) a wooden umpire's chair for my tennis club a month ago, and I was concerned about the overhang at the front of the treads.

it's not ideal no, my design is nowhere near perfect, I would make a newel post if I did it again, and have thicker tenons for the posts and probably have a lot more of them, it doesn't move as much as you'd expect though but you are right to point it out.

 

[thick_mike]

A few weeks ago I saw a piece of Swedish Glass on the Antiques Road Show which really took my eye so I decided to make something similar but in wood.

The original of course didn't have a 'lid' but I am known for my love of 'hidden' catches so a closed 'box' made absolute sense to me. The lid is released by squeezing the eyes.

The main structure is 100mm cube made from Walnut, Pink Ivory and Ebony.

This is the first of this year's Christmas presents I'm now in the process of making another three at 75mm cube using African Padauk with Ebony/Maple beaks and Walnut wings

Very cute.

Maybe give it a red breast for a Christmas flavour. It is very robin-like in dimensions already.

 

[J-G]

Very cute.

Maybe give it a red breast for a Christmas flavour. It is very robin-like in dimensions already.

Thanks Mike, I did toy with a number of ideas regarding use of different woods to make it more specific bird like but decided in the end - well with this prototype - to stick with walnut all round.

My original thought was to make the beak yellow but since I didn't have any natural yellow timber on hand went with black. The three smaller ones I'm making will have Black & Yellow beaks using African Blackwood and Beach which will be stained using Liberon water based stain.

 

[El Barto]

A little plane hammer I made earlier. It was very simple - five mins on the lathe for the head, ten mins with a spokeshave for the handle, glued and wedged with hide glue then given some linseed oil. Made from leadwood and oak.

I've wanted one of these for a while and although it doesn't really matter, I've been adjusting my planes with a steel pin hammer and each time it makes me cringe a bit hitting the iron with something metal.

 

[D_W]

I think I already posted this on the HT side, and it was several months ago now. but I've got about half a dozen guitars in the works, and a cabinet that I'm finishing, so I haven't really gotten anything "done" other than making a couple of small tools that I've used on those projects.

Telecaster style guitar, spruce (from a billet I found on ebay) and cherry neck, sawn out of a table top slab that I found (it's nice to have big wood to saw guitar bits out of so that you can get ideal grain orientation. Fingerboard resawn out of a piece of birdseye maple that I bought for the purpose. Birdseye could be a little more intense, but the spruce guitar blank is divine, worked reasonably well and there was enough thickness for me to resaw off a nice piece of spruce to make a parlor acoustic out of.

Most of the work done by hand. I did use a template to do the roughing of the cavities with a router, and set the outside profile, but I'm not good enough with power tools to make finished neck pockets, etc, with a router and just trim them out with planemaking tools to get a good fit.

Finish is varnish. i made the varnish (pine/dammar resin with flaxseed oil and turpentine). No more varnish on guitars - a true varnish with no driers takes way too long to get past being reactive.

 

[will1983]

Latest client job installed this weekend.

Alcove face frame, lower shelf, doors and top from 18mm Medite MDF designed to hide an ugly electricity meter and consumer unit.

There is a structural face frame behind the fancy fluted side panels. Doors are hung on Blum soft close overlay hinges.

Finish is primer only, sprayed with the Graco airless. The Client will do the top coats themselves when they do the rest of the woodwork in the room.

Total build time was 5 hours in the workshop (incl filling, sanding and spraying) with 4 hours on site.

I'm happy and so is the Client, expecting a call back in a week or two for a matching unit on the other side of the fireplace and some nice complicated wardrobes in the attic.

 

[thick_mike]

made a low oak bench for the hallway to sit on while putting my shoes on. All done with hand tools, now I have biceps like popeye. Legs would have been so much easier if I had a lathe.

 

[Bm101]

I love everything about that Mike. (hammer)

 

[custard]

Telecaster style guitar, spruce (from a billet I found on ebay) and cherry neck, sawn out of a table top slab that I found (it's nice to have big wood to saw guitar bits out of so that you can get ideal grain orientation. Fingerboard resawn out of a piece of birdseye maple that I bought for the purpose. Birdseye could be a little more intense, but the spruce guitar blank is divine, worked reasonably well and there was enough thickness for me to resaw off a nice piece of spruce to make a parlor acoustic out of.

Superb job!

=D>


Spruce is a beautiful timber, bit soft for furniture but I'm seeing increasing numbers of makers use Spruce for delicate pieces of furniture that won't see too much abuse. Not suitable for homes with small boys or big dogs, but for everyone else it's ideal!

 

[custard]

made a low oak bench for the hallway

Very nice design, in particular I really like the bold chamfers around the edges.

=D>

 

[thick_mike]

made a low oak bench for the hallway

Very nice design, in particular I really like the bold chamfers around the edges.

=D>

Cheers Custard. The plank is 2” thick, so I thought the chamfers would lighten it visually, and physically.

 

[whiskywill]

made a low oak bench for the hallway to sit on while putting my shoes on. All done with hand tools, now I have biceps like popeye. Legs would have been so much easier if I had a lathe.

Very nice but not keen on those footplates at the bottom of the legs.

 

[John15]

Very nice indeed Mike. The wedged leg joint showing through on the top surface is a nice feature.

John