Pollys window typical window section

[ColeyS1]

You'll be the one who's making them though ! How are you finding using the spindle moulder now ?

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[pollys13]

A lighter frame could be a consideration as I'll be on my scaffold tower contriving to pull the frame up on a rope. I was having a ponder about this manoeuvre the other night, how I'm going to go about doing it. When I was on the tower, bodge fixing one of the cills and putting masonary paint on. How the tower had to be positioned, was a gap between wall and tower, occurred to me just increase the gap and pulling the frame should be straightforward. My best mate is a roofer, tiler and plasterer and quite a bright spark, will ask if he has any additional ideas on getting frame up and into position

Err, soz if there's something I've missed here, but why would you be roping the frames up on a scaff tower? Surely they'll all be fitted from the inside...won't they?

Also, I think you might be in danger of over thinking the job. Your windows are pretty straightforward, other than the sliding sash...which, I imagine, will take a bit of making good on the inside.

Fitting windows; the horrible reality;

" Fitting windows; the horrible reality; " I can handle that

 

[ColeyS1]

I meant the measurement between the two red arrows on the picture. Im starting to think upvc would look amazing. Not sure what tools you'd need to make them though! Lol

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[pollys13]

It looks like the sliding sash ones are in behind the first brick but the others further forward. What will need to be done at some point is to measure from brick to brick on the outside then plaster to plaster on the inside. I'm trying to take it at a steady pace at the moment. This will be quite important when you come to deciding frame dimensions. There may be a reason the frames where the sliding sash are at the moment, would be better off being buried in behind the brick. This might mean you'd need a chunky frame so for instance 12mm of it will be lost/buried behind the brick. It may be easier to just fit the others from the outside with narrow 57mm frames. The 69mm chunky frame you've buried 12mm would then match. A lot of it depends what lurks on the inside to which approach would be better. Let's keep the momentum going !
My main goal was to demonstrate why you didn't need the large rebate block but I feel progress has come on leaps and bounds since that discussion.
Would a 94mm deep frame look like it could work ? Is there any way you can measure how thick the frames are now? The sliding sash will no doubt be much thicker than your other windows.

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" What will need to be done at some point is to measure from brick to brick on the outside " Do you mean measuring diagonal to diagonal to size the window opening? " then plaster to plaster on the inside " Not sure what you mean?

 

[Chip shop]

Outer face of brick to the front face of each window I imagine (sorry Coley, if I'm treading on your toes)

 

[pollys13]

On the windows that haven't got brick or tiled cills, what's the biggest measurement you've got from the front/face of the brickwork to the face of the window frame ?

If they're all around the same size you go just work to the biggest.

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Top right corner face of frame is 6cm from edge of brick work, top left is 5cm, bottom left and right both 4cm.

 

[pollys13]

Outer face of brick to the front face of each window I imagine (sorry Coley, if I'm treading on your toes)

Cheers, mores the merrier.

 

[pollys13]

The window board is quite straightforward? I think they are all jointed much the same way? I fished a window out out of a skip once to try to get an idea of how all put together, was an old single glazed garage window.

 

[pollys13]

Oh I see, I thought you mentioned putting back like for like. Is the plastic double glazing being replaced with wood then ?
For simplicity it would probably be easier to make them all flush

Then make different sized subcills for the ones that need it. The sliding sash ones you have at the moment are obviously waterproof with no projection at the moment. If every other window besides these have projection, you could do those to match ?

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" Then make different sized subcills for the ones that need it " So this is the plant on cill, that RobinBHM referred too?

 

[Chip shop]

Yup, that's a plant on cill alright!

If I was you, I'd get some timber and have a crack at making one. The biggest challange is the deep rebates, but with a little imagination you could do them with a table saw, router or one of them planes that old people use...if you don't have a spindle moulder.

Oh, and take your measurments from the inside(perhaps with a little bit of plaster chipped off) not the outside.

 

[pollys13]

Yup, that's a plant on cill alright!

If I was you, I'd get some timber and have a crack at making one. The biggest challange is the deep rebates, but with a little imagination you could do them with a table saw, router or one of them planes that old people use...if you don't have a spindle moulder.

Oh, and take your measurments from the inside(perhaps with a little bit of plaster chipped off) not the outside.

I have a 3.75hp Axminster trade series WS1000TA spindle moulder and a monster of a 1hp roller feed also a new 125 x 60 x 30 rebate block, various other cutter blocks.I also have the Aquamac weather seal cutter.
Attended Peter Seftons training day on the safe use of spindle moulder, ring fence, bearing guides etc. Familiar with the use and safe use of the machine. Also have a Axminster trade series 3 knife block, planer/ thicknesser, Axminster trade table saw with 2nd hand sliding table, 3.75hp 100mm depth of cut.
3hp bandsaw 10 inch cut, cabinet mortiser, hand planes which I'm in process of learning how to use. Joinery bench a work in progress. About to get some Redwood to practice on once I've sorted out surface planer to machine square.

 

[pollys13]

You'll be the one who's making them though ! How are you finding using the spindle moulder now ?

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I'm still trying to get new planer to cut square as, I mentioned until I have square timber I'm reluctant to try and practice rebate cutting on the spindle.

 

[pollys13]

Sorry Coley I got confused, I have a load of Tulipwood from recycling place to practice carving. Is all quite rough and needs to be faced and edged, which I can't do until I get the planer set up correctly.
Obviously, I can get Redwood from Travis Perkins which will be PAR and ready to put though the spindle moulder. Forum told me Travis Perkins 5ths will be fine to practice with, think was 5ths unsorted. Should be able to get over to TP by end of week, so will start running some rebates in the size of timber your thinking of for frames. Will also have a go with my new Omas wobble saw to run some grooves and also the whitehill moulding block cutter I bought.
Sorry about the mixup but the Tulipwood was more capturing my attention.
Think plastic would look.... uum well

 

[Chip shop]

Yup, that's a plant on cill alright!

If I was you, I'd get some timber and have a crack at making one. The biggest challange is the deep rebates, but with a little imagination you could do them with a table saw, router or one of them planes that old people use...if you don't have a spindle moulder.

Oh, and take your measurments from the inside(perhaps with a little bit of plaster chipped off) not the outside.

I have a 3.75hp Axminster trade series WS1000TA spindle moulder and a monster of a 1hp roller feed also a new 125 x 60 x 30 rebate block, various other cutter blocks.I also have the Aquamac weather seal cutter.
Attended Peter Seftons training day on the safe use of spindle moulder, ring fence, bearing guides etc. Familiar with the use and safe use of the machine. Also have a Axminster trade series 3 knife block, planer/ thicknesser, Axminster trade table saw with 2nd hand sliding table, 3.75hp 100mm depth of cut.
3hp bandsaw 10 inch cut, cabinet mortiser, hand planes which I'm in process of learning how to use. Joinery bench a work in progress. About to get some Redwood to practice on once I've sorted out surface planer to machine square.

Brill. You've got all the kit, so crack on!

 

[pollys13]

For reasons of economy, what I propose doing is working to a smaller scale, by that I mean not fully finished frame size 96mm x 69mm I think was what Coley mentioned, though still large enough to practice the jointing. I'm thinking of making up several practice windows say 36cm wide x 60cm high. I would need to perhaps get 100mm x 100mm PAR Redwood from Travis Perkins and rip down to working sections, or better to get other stock sizes of Redwood and not have to rip down? Design as in attached,part that is outlined in red, did this some while back to give me an idea roughly what size the glazing and the cost of one window style I'm intending to make.

 

[Chip shop]

For reasons of economy, what I propose doing is working to a smaller scale, by that I mean not fully finished frame size 96mm x 69mm I think was what Coley mentioned, though still large enough to practice the jointing. I'm thinking of making up several practice windows say 36cm wide x 60cm high. I would need to perhaps get 100mm x 100mm PAR Redwood from Travis Perkins and rip down to working sections, or better to get other stock sizes of Redwood and not have to rip down? Design as in attached,part that is outlined in red, did this some while back to give me an idea roughly what size the glazing and the cost of one window style I'm intending to make.

I don't know how that is economical. I'm not sure that prototyping basic window making is really a thing...just get after it.

By all means get yourself a bit of MDF or MFC and make a full sized drawing, you could mark out your mortices on a bit of 2x1 (I think they call this a story stick)

 

[ColeyS1]

You can keep buying new pieces of tooling each week which will make it seem like you're making progress with the job, or you can get stuck in and stop ***** footing around.Have you thought of paying a joinery company or timber supplier to machine the window sections for you ? A planer and spindle moulder with all the extra tooling is a lot of hours worth of labour !!!
I don't think you'll get a real grasp of what the spindle moulders capable of until you turn it on and start using it. You don't need a perfectly square piece of timber to use on the spindle either- that's just an excuse/delaying tactic !


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[pollys13]

Yes I know I did kick boxing for 6 years.

 

[Chip shop]

DELETE

 

[Chip shop]

But this is bonkers. You've all the kit to make a window...so make one.