Pointers to reading / learning please.

[pe2dave]

Probably like many here, I've a couple of itches I think 3D printing could solve.
As with many aspects of our 'hobby', I guess it's easy to start badly?
Looking for forums, websites, blogs from which I might learn before jumping in please?
Even if it's only one aspect of the ... craft?

 

[Ollie78]

There is a lot of 3d printing 101 style videos on youtube to get you going,this is how I got my machine to work.
It is mostly about the machine setup and using the slicer software correctly.

It is amazing how far things have come in only a few years, my machine is an ender 3 which is very basic but entirely functional, had it a few years.
Now, for the same money I paid my mate got a machine which is vastly superior with proper linear rails and self bed leveling etc etc. I forget what it was called but its spec is ridiculous for the price it has a super fast mode which is so quick you need to screw the base down to the table or it wobbles about !

Think about what you want to make, big stuff or small, do you value speed over quality of finish, what materials will you be printing some require enclosures and filtration.

 

[fleyh]

Hello @pe2dave

When it comes to asking a question - Reddit is your friend:
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/

or brand-specific subreddits:

• e.g. Bambu https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/
• e.g. Prusa https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/

I know you did not explicitly ask for it, but I will share something I wish I was told before my 3D printing journey started:

1. If you do not already own a 3D printer, do yourself a favour and consider a Bambu "A1 Mini" or A1 (if your budget permits) - without AMS Lite in both cases. You just can't beat the usability in this price range.

There will undoubtedly be lots of advice about other brands and models, but the two above are the only current models that just work in this price range. With any other printer (if you have zero 3D printing knowledge to start with), you will have to invest a considerable amount of time getting to grips with the specific model instead of learning how to make your own models and make stuff. If you have loads of spare time and want to make up your own mind, check out https://www.youtube.com/@AuroraTech reviews. This is the best 3D printer review channel out there.

1. If you want to make your own models, you have to learn CAD. Unless you have prior CAD experience, prepare to get frustrated time and again initially. Don't despair - everyone goes through that stage. CAD software in general has a very steep learning curve. The key is: practice, practice, practice and keep practising. There are CAD packages which are easier to get into at the expense of missing functionality or price. Avoid non-parametric CAD packages. They are a waste of time in the long run. The majority of what they do you can do in the slicer, which you will have to learn anyway.

It may be tempting to go with something like Fusion 360 or OnShape - they look "free" but (take it from the experience of those burned by these free candy) - it is not worth it. Sooner or later, the company behind the "free" CAD will make a change and move something (which is a deal-breaker for you) from the free to the paid tier.

If you decide to ignore my advice and want try your luck with seemingly "free" commercial CAD, then https://www.youtube.com/@ProductDesignOnline has the easiest to understand Fusion 360 tutorials.

When it comes to FreeCAD, I would start with https://www.youtube.com/@MangoJellySolutions
- its UI looks like a nuclear apocalypse compared to polished commercial packages, but it have been gaining popularity (and developer contributions) in the last couple of years, so the future looks bright.
If you prefer to create your model via writing instructions rather than click and draw, I found these OpenSCAD tutorials the easiest to comprehend:

 

[pe2dave]

Thanks @fleyh - appreciated.
Does raise the next question - where's the list of acronyms please? E.g. AMS?

Re CAD - I used the two floppy version of Autocad in ... 1982? OK with 2D - I will
have to work at the 3rd aspect.

 

[fleyh]

Thanks @fleyh - appreciated.
Does raise the next question - where's the list of acronyms please? E.g. AMS?

AMS is a Bambu-specific feature - it swaps spools automatically, e.g., if you want to print with more than one colour or filament type.
- as I wrote above, it is not really necessary

On A1 printers, it looks like the part in red. More expensive Bambu printers have a different-looking version, but the idea is the same.

For general 3D printing terms, you could have a look at this list: https://www.3dsourced.com/rigid-ink/ultimate-3d-printing-glossary/
But don't try to memorise it. You will pick up relevant terms quickly as you immerse yourself in 3D printing.

Re CAD - I used the two floppy version of Autocad in ... 1982? OK with 2D - I will
have to work at the 3rd aspect.

You may have better luck than I did. I used to write AutoCAD extensions in AutoLISP (during the floppy disk days), i.e., I could be considered a "power user" at the time. However, when I returned to modern CADs a few years ago, I felt like a complete novice.

As I said - a steep learning curve, but it is worth it as long as you keep practising.

When I used CAD for my woodworking projects only, there was a substantial time gap (months) between each project where CAD use made sense. So, every time I returned to CAD, I had already forgotten 80% of what I learned on my previous project.

With a 3D printer, I use FreeCAD on a weekly basis, and that has helped enormously.

One other thing - whichever CAD package you select, try to stick with it until you feel able to design 80%-90% of what you want to do. Don't jump between various CADs (as I did in the beginning). It is a waste of time.

 

[Ollie78]

AMS is a Bambu-specific feature - it swaps spools automatically, e.g., if you want to print with more than one colour or filament type.
- as I wrote above, it is not really necessary

On A1 printers, it looks like the part in red. More expensive Bambu printers have a different-looking version, but the idea is the same.

View attachment 181864

For general 3D printing terms, you could have a look at this list: https://www.3dsourced.com/rigid-ink/ultimate-3d-printing-glossary/
But don't try to memorise it. You will pick up relevant terms quickly as you immerse yourself in 3D printing.


You may have better luck than I did. I used to write AutoCAD extensions in AutoLISP (during the floppy disk days), i.e., I could be considered a "power user" at the time. However, when I returned to modern CADs a few years ago, I felt like a complete novice.

As I said - a steep learning curve, but it is worth it as long as you keep practising.

When I used CAD for my woodworking projects only, there was a substantial time gap (months) between each project where CAD use made sense. So, every time I returned to CAD, I had already forgotten 80% of what I learned on my previous project.

With a 3D printer, I use FreeCAD on a weekly basis, and that has helped enormously.

One other thing - whichever CAD package you select, try to stick with it until you feel able to design 80%-90% of what you want to do. Don't jump between various CADs (as I did in the beginning). It is a waste of time.

That is the one my mate has, the A1 mini, really amazing performance for the money. He doesn`t have the colour change option as not required. He owns a very expensive fully enclosed machine and a Prusa and says the Bambu is just as good and faster.

My software recommendations are Fusion 360 because it is intuitive to do good modelling quite quickly, freecad drives me a bit mental (possibly because I have been used to fusion) . Another option is blender but it is another different design style.
I am quite interested in Plasticity as it seems very good at more organic shapes and has really amazing filleting and blending. Also it is a pay to own software which is becoming rare.
I like the cura slicer which has a very nice UI and tons of infil and speed options etc.

Another tip is a 3d connexion space mouse, its genius for 3d modelling software.

 

[pe2dave]

@fleyh Yep, bit of a learning curve!
(If anyone plays Mah Jong...)
First attempt at a tile holder - I made a set of four for a friend...
and his tiles are bigger than mine!
This is the right size!
Except ... How do I say (freeSCAD) that sizes are mm?

Oops, can't upload SCAD files...

 

[fleyh]

How do I say (freeSCAD) that sizes are mm?

I am not a big OpenSCAD user but if I remember correctly there is no unit of length in OpenSCAD.

Did a quick Google just now:
Quote from the reddit thread linked above:

As others have already pointed out, OpenSCAD doesn't use specific units. I would recommend defining all dimensions in millimeters in a single .scad file, and then dividing those values by the ratio between millimeters and your desired base unit.

 

[pe2dave]

Thanks @fleyh Very much common sense use.