pine floor

[kityuser]

thinking about doing about 9 square meters of pine flooring.

The existing room has got carpet and underlay on top of a concrete floor.

The question is this, what do I use as a base, ply which is stuck to the concrete by adhesive and nail the boards down thru the joins, or use adhesive straight onto the pine?

looking at the expensive stuff they sell in wickes, anyone used it? "french pine", looks quite nice.

regards

steve

ps the beech is STILL drying, only 6 weeks left!

 

[SimonA]

Hi Steve,

It is the laminate flooring we're talking about here?

To be honest I wouldn't be sticking it down at all......I would lay a condensation and insulation membrain down and then just lay the floor on top of that. It is supposed to be a floating floor.

SimonA..
WHos probably got the wrong end of the stick again!

 

[kityuser]

no its the solid pine stuff, about 1" thick

 

[Anonymous]

1" thick? Mind your head on the door frames!

 

[Anonymous]

1" thick? Mind your head on the door frames!

Yeah, but it'll make painting the ceiling a cinch!

Andrew

 

[kityuser]

well getting on for an inch thick (could be closer to 3/4)

anyhow anyone got any advice on how to lay the stuff???

 

[Offcut]

If its t & g flooring then is should be hidden nailed but you have to have something to nail too. If you lay a ply floor first the nails will have to be relatively short otherwise you will nail into the concrete. You may have to lay down 25 x 25mm batons at say 400 ctrs then nail into the batons. Always advisable to put down a vapour barier first.

Andy

 

[SimonA]

Would it not be best to glue it all together and just leave it as a floating floor? It'll still be able to expand and contract as and when it needs to....

SimonA

 

[kityuser]

the problem is that I`ve got a carpet+underlay floor at the moment and I really don`t want too much of a step-up onto the wooden floor.

Don`t really fancy having to touch the concrete......................

 

[CYC]

I think gluing a solid timber floor to have it floating is suicide.
I think offcut is right.
It's me thinking :wink:

 

[Offcut]

I don’t think you will be able to glue it as there is no way of holding the joints together. The idea of hidden nailing is to set the plank into its T&G and nail the opposite side holding the joint together. If you glue the joint and don't nail, you have no way of holding the joint together. If you lay something like a parquet floor then the wood is glued to a plywood base and nailed to the base with very fine finish nails. You still need the nails to hold the wood in place while the glue sets. The pine boards will be far from straight and will need some gentle persuasion in places to make the joint tight.

If you were considering engineered board then you can get away with glueing the t&g as the boards, if stored correctly, have little movement once laid and are generally very straight meaning the joints will be tight.

Andy

 

[kityuser]

how do most people replace a carpeted floor with a solid wooden one.

It seems to me that the difference in floor covering thickness is massive.
(once you have either batterened or plyed the floor before laying the pine)

don`t see a way around this.................

 

[Anonymous]

I always use the laminate flooring. Can't really tell it's not solid wood in many cases. I install it on a damp proof membrane followed by insulation (looks like a huge prawn cracker) and then leave the floor floating. I install skirting board after floor

 

[ike]

Steve,

Found http://www.shopcreator.com/mall/WoodFloorWarehouse/notes/note-330.stm which might help answer your questions.

If the concrete is level, you can probably leave the ply (18mm Exterior Grade should be OK) floating, but you must use a polythene membrane under. Even better maybe, a 3mm closed cell foam underlay as used for laminate flooring will also give some extra thermal insulation and acoustic damping. If you use ply lay the long side at right angles to the board run.

Alternatively, screw 1" thick battens at 400 centres as for normal joists. It looks like you should hire a floor nailer as shown for best results.

Ike

 

[ike]

If you want to use solid wood as described without resorting to bodgery, you have to accept losing height and having a step in the doorway.

You can get a real wood laminated er.. laminate, (which probably won't look like a solid wood floor). The veneer is bout 1/8" thick which can be sanded 2 or 3 times but you won't lose any headroom.

 

[Aragorn]

Have a look at this site for all your flooring solutions!!

 

[ike]

Aragorn,

How do you make your URL link look like normal text?

Ike

 

[Alf]

How do you make your URL link look like normal text?

[url=http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk]like this[/url]

like this

Cheers, Alf