How do you make supporting joints when only using hand tools on green wood?

[woodlearner9810182]

When I was not limited in tools or materials I would have a rough idea of what I wanted to make such as a table or bed frame, begin it, then when I got some semblance of what I was going for and it was wonky, just add those pieces of wood to make a triangle at the corner or put a block/cube butting against the corner. Not sure of their correct respective names.

In these instances they were easily fastened down with screws.

Yesterday I was able to make the beginnings of a frame using hammer, chisels and saw making mortis and tenon joints to form three sides of a rectangle.

Now when I put them together and aimed to get an idea of what to do next it dawned on me how I would make supporting joints with these limited tools?

Mortis and tenon I noticed not only takes a long time, I did each one in about 2 hours which is ok for main joints and sounds similar to kris harbour in the time he said it took him to do his roundhouse joints initially, unpracticed, even with his power tools, but also quite a bit of space on the frame and I don't really see that as being feasible for the supporting joints due to the time it would take and probably many required.

Also they require quite a bit of precision. Something I don't have the luxury of with the limited tools and at 45 degree angles I imagine that would be impractical.

Pegging, since using greenwood, I am guessing that the pegs would just fall out after a couple of months once the wood got smaller from drying out and the pegs no longer grabbing?

So any suggestions to solve this issue? The supports, from my small previous experience, are like one of the most important bits binding everything together to make a solid structure.

Of course in keeping with the limited tools at my disposal. I would really prefer not to have to buy any more at all if I can get away with it.

 

[TheUnicorn]

Pegging, since using greenwood, I am guessing that the pegs would just fall out after a couple of months once the wood got smaller from drying out and the pegs no longer grabbing?

My experience with green wood is limited but I think that as the moisture leaves the surrounding wood, as you say, it gets smaller, and therefore tightens around the pegs not loosens, logically the pegs would need to be seasoned and the workpiece green

 

[woodlearner9810182]

My experience with green wood is limited but I think that as the moisture leaves the surrounding wood, as you say, it gets smaller, and therefore tightens around the pegs not loosens, logically the pegs would need to be seasoned and the workpiece green

Hmm didn't know that. I will not have the luxury of seasoned pegs as would be using all the same stock for the wood unless I bought a couple of just any old normal commercial timber for the pegs only as I guess would only need a plank or two to make loads of pegs.