Pete's workshop build

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motownmartin

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I have been helping Pete with his workshop build, it might be of interest to those who are building or want to build their own.

The base and first part of the build can be found here It has been interesting so far, Pete had put down a large concrete base about 24' x 14' and got hold of a second hand prefab garage.

Last Tuesday and Today we set about building the roof, Bloomin' hard work and it all took a little longer than expected, to put it all into perspective the inside measurements are 19' x 13' and the lowest part of the ceiling is higher than 8' so it's easy to flip a 8' x 4' plywood sheet.

Anyway I took a few photos with my phone, but he doesn't know i'm posting them yet.

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Looking good so far and Pete has made his own windows which look fantastic, we should see those installed in a few weeks time.

This build has given me some ideas and experience for my own workshop build.
 
It's looking good Martin but can I ask what are the blocks you are using? To me it looks like concrete but can't be sure.
 
Blimey, that's a good phone, the pics are better than my kodak camera.
Rich.
 
Well Martin, you beat me to it as I was in the process of continuing my workshop build progress.

After a good couple of days with some very appreciated and well needed help from Martin I was able to crack on with the roof covering. Initially I intended to use asphalt shingles used extensively in the USA but after speaking to a couple of suppliers I was told they would not be suitable for my particular roof as they require a minimum roof pitch of 14 degrees, mine is only 5 degrees - back to the drawing board!!

After trawling the internet for some time I came across some bitumen impregnated corrugated roofing sheets that come with a 15 year guarantee, has been tested to wind speeds of up to 120mph and even offers good sound and heat insulation properties AND at an affordable price - brilliant!!!

And the verdict - I think it looks very good, not the chicken shed look I was expecting and is very easy to install and at £8 per sheet (2m x 955mm) the whole roof cost me £216 (27 sheets) not bad for a 30m square roof.

Well a long way to go yet and will keep you all up to date on its progress.

Another big thanks to Martin for all your help but Im sure you will get your own back!!!

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I hope you have good luck with the bitumin sheets, i have some similar to these on part of my workshop.They were great to start with,then after a while they started bending and moving about and becoming brittle,after a bad wind they lifted and tore almost right across.I would make sure the edges are fastened down well.
:)
 
I would recommend that the boards be felted first then the final covering. This serves two purposes, it prevent water ingress if the covering is damaged and prevents any condensation from getting into any gaps in the boards as well
Felt can also be tucked over the board edges to protect them.

Roy.
 
:lol: I hardly ever phone anyone, its a Sony Ericsson with a 2 Mega pixel camera and very handy.

I am just happy with a phone that I can call and text with and that is complicated enough! Mind you I could do with around a four inch screen so I can see who is calling me with my eyesight now! :cry:
 
Just so as to keep you all up to date on the progress of my workshop build here are are couple more photos.

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Looking really good Pete, I bet you can't wait to move in!

I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but.... You've got your roofing underlay on upside down. :D

I'll get me coat!
 
Still have a lot of work to do before its finished but no, I can't wait to move all my stuff in, since I moved house I have been confined to a garden shed so I have been a bit cramped and it will probably feel like a palace!!
 
Digit":14itzvnl said:
I would recommend that the boards be felted first then the final covering. This serves two purposes, it prevent water ingress if the covering is damaged and prevents any condensation from getting into any gaps in the boards as well
Felt can also be tucked over the board edges to protect them.

Roy.

I agree FULLY, you need to put first felt underneath it

Better have some more opinions on this, but i would have done fist some felt
 
The main walls were what is all that remains of secondhand double garage which I was fortunate enough to get for nothing from a small add on a supermarket small adds board from someone who had moved into a house with it in his garden and wanted it out of his way, the add read something like "free to anyone willing to remove it" It was in a bit of a state but it came up great after a lick of paint, and yes I was very lucky, but they can be picked up quite cheep on Ebay.

To give you an idea of the cost so far:

Concrete base:- Materials include 850 bricks (laid by myself even though I am not a builder by any means), 10 tons of hard core, 10 tons of ballast & 53 bags of cement = concrete) mixed by myself with the aid of two electric mixers. £1000

Windows:- Made from Iroko and double glazed with Anti-sun grey tint glass £500

Timber:- For internal framework, roof joists, cladding, OSB boarding. £900

Roofing sheets:- 27 sheets Bitumen impregnated plus fixings £250

Other bits:- ie damp proofing, nails, screws, bolts, silicone, paint etc. Approx £200

Total so far:- Approx £2850

The last photo so far is now as far as I have been able to get with the materials I have so now I will have to spend some more money in order to progress.

I have been doing my homework and here is my estimate to finish the job.

Work still to be done and estimated cost:

Timber:- To finish the roof eves etc. £50

Door: More Iroko here, Double doors one side stable door £220

Slabs: for around workshop to cover concrete £120

Insulation: For walls and roof space £200

Interior wall and roof covering: Prob OSB £150

Electrics: Including 10mm SWA cable @ 40m run, trunking, sockets, consumer unit, lights etc, £300 (luckily a guy I work with is part P certified and will inspect and test all the work before connection, so otherwise I would need to add a couple of hundred)

Other bits: as before £150[/b]

Total to finish the job: £1200 Yeah right!!!!

Might have enough in the swear box by now!!!!!

So estimated grand total IS £4000

ILL LET YOU KNOW!!!!!
 
To answer your question fully, Yes I did need planning permission but only for the fact that I was building within 20 meters of a public foot path (don't confuse this with a pavement as may garden backs on to a field with a public footpath running through it, a public highway and pavements are different) it cost me £138 and I drew the plans myself, they don't need to be to the standard of an architect as I think they are just after a general idea of what you are up too!!
 
Ok, felt down first for those that want but once again I did some homework first and here were my findings quoted from a wood products materials guide:

Under the APA guidelines of the Engineered Wood Association OSB is made with two different exposure ratings: Exterior and Exposure 1.

Exterior-rated panels have a fully waterproof and are designed for use with permanent exposure to moisture.

Exposure 1-rated panels are fully waterproof and are designed for applications where the panels may be unprotected.

95% of OSB panels are rated Exposure 1.

There is more but I am now bored of typing and the information is more of the same: OSB WAS DESIGNED FOR EXTERNAL APPLICATIONS!!!

I DID USE IT FOR A REASON AND NOT FOR THE FACT IT HAS A PRETTY pattern!!!

But hey, if it makes you happy then felt it as well.
 
Pete, if you are going to use rock wool for the ceiling - think again - (its ok for walls) its difficult to keep in position while you put the ceiling boards up. Worst of all you need a soco suit and a good mask to stop the fibres getting everywhere. I wish I had plumped for the solid type, fiddly to cut but a lot less hassle
 
Yep. Fully waterproof etc etc etc. and it goes a lovely black colour as well when it gets wet!
I live in a timber building and have used dozens of sheets of OSB, and based on experience, not what the book says, I felt first. Later this year I have to replace a sheet on my car port roof where the water got at it due to a blocked gutter. I would also point out that felting protects the roof from water penetration down the joint lines bewteen the OSB panels.
For what it's worth that is my experience.

Roy.
 

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